2004 Caravan keyless lock/unlock problem

I am installing a Autopage KE-115R system in my 2004 Grand Caravan and I am having problems getting the doors to lock/unlock correctly. Onboard relays are working, and the system is sending pulses through my homemade resistor board, but system behavior is very sporatic. Unlock button is unlocking and relocking the doors. Lock will usually do nothing but will sometimes lock or unlock the doors depending on their current position. Here is my setup.

X--lock wire on rke through onboard relay to ground
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X--3.3k resistor 1/2 watt
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X--unlock wire on rke through onboard relay to ground
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X--1k resistor 1/2 watt
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X--1k resistor 1/2 watt
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X--Caravans lock wire (purple and green)

My meter listed these resistors as having a slightly lower value then listed. I am unable to read what values I am getting in actual operation because the pulse is too short to get a reading. I have all grounds(system power, lock/unlock, parking lights and hatch) tied to one point on the frame. Is this OK to do? I'm thinking this may be my trouble. Are the Caravans picky about the resistances or do you only have to be in the ballpark? Is there a variable resistor that I could buy that is made for Auto applications so I could tweak it a bit? Right now my little resistor board is rather fixed in its values. I do have an old 1/4 watt decade resistor box I could start playing with to get a value that works 100% if 1/4 watt is enough for this application.

I also need to know where the best place to get the switched +12v is on a 2004 Caravan.

Thanks in advance for any help you may have to offer.
Erick

I try to keep the value within 5% of what the sheet lists. My sheet is listing lock as 5.3k...you are saying you are at 3.3k. You could pick up a resistance learning module, and eliminate your own resistors. The DEI 456L is one such device, that will learn the resistance required, then duplicate it when operating.

My listings show a 5.3k ohm resistor for lock and a 2k ohm for unlock. The door lock wire is PURPLE / green in the middle plug of the BCM. All grounds must go to the vehicle chassis. If they are all to one point that is fine provided they make a good contact to bare metal and aren't loose. The resistors must go through a relay so that you send a "true" ground to the door lock wire. Using transistorized outputs for ground through the resistors doesn't work.

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sparky

Doorlock wire is PURPLE / green at the 3rd plug down from the top at the BCM. There are a couple of those colors wires there, but you can test with a test light or multimeter. I think its in the 3rd row, like 3 or 4 wires from the left. I dont know, I just memorized the location by sight. Resistance values are: 2.7 kohm for lock, and 1.8 kohm for unlock. I do at least one of these a day, and these values work PERFECTLY! Everything else in your setup sounds correct. Make sure you have good ground, onboard lock/unlock relays are operating properly, and you should have no problem with those value resistors. Good luck!

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

Power Lock	PURPLE / green	-	conn. 3, pin 21 @ BCM
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru a 5.3K ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 2.0K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs. Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Power Unlock	same wire as power lock

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Twelvoltz wrote:

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I try to keep the value within 5% of what the sheet lists. My sheet is listing lock as 5.3k...you are saying you are at 3.3k. You could pick up a resistance learning module, and eliminate your own resistors. The DEI 456L is one such device, that will learn the resistance required, then duplicate it when operating.

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I have lock at 5.3k because is is going through the 3.3k and the 2 1k resistors. Next thing I am going to try is dial in the exact resistance needed on my decade resistor box and patch in with some alligator clips and touch the other end to ground. If that works I know I have issues with my resistor board being out of spec or something in the rke itself may be varying the resistance. Everyting is running through relays(built into the rke unit) so I don't think that is the issue. Although the ground I am connecting to may be faulty. How can i check that? It seems to be powering the unit ok were it is connected now.