2006 Dodge Ram Diesel, Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=84855
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 3:40 AM
Topic: 2006 Dodge Ram Diesel, Remote Start
Posted By: jacked93
Subject: 2006 Dodge Ram Diesel, Remote Start
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 1:45 PM
I bought this remote start system off of ebay,https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GV9-2-Way-LCD-Car-Alarm-Remote-Start-Programmable_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33721QQihZ006QQitemZ160041865248QQtcZphoto I really wanted one, but couldn't afford the $500+ price tag that some shops here wanted to install a system. I am pretty handy so I figured I would give it a shot installing it myself. After finding this site it looks like it may be harder than I thought, didn't think there would be some many relays, 5 from what I can tell, and resistors. I think I am a little overwhelmed. My questions. 1) Is this system even any good? 2) Can a novice install somthing like this? Thanks in advance
Replies:
Posted By: green6767
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 2:05 PM
If you've never installed a remote starter before, this may be a bit of a task for ya. Those trucks aren't necessarily hard to do given the proper bypass module and methods of installing, but then again, its not a cake walk. If you aren't going to use a bypass kit, it may be a bit of a challenge for you, not sure how much you know about remote starters. As far as the system goes, I'm not able to access your links, but I took the auction number out of the link and looked it up that way. It "looks" decent, never heard of the brand, but looks can be very deceiving. Maybe somebody can offer some input on the brand, as I have not much experience with that particular brand.
-------------
Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!
12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 2:15 PM
For some reason I can't get them to work right, they work when you preview the post, but not once it is posted, it removes the first part of the link. I bought a bypass module already, I still think I can do it, the relay and resistor thing is what worried me at first, but I guess its not really that big of a deal, just have to head to radio shack for some relays and resistors. Looks like 6 of each. The ebay item # is 160041865183 Remote Start
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 2:22 PM
FYI, eBay links are blocked in this forum.
The item you are inquiring about is not from a brand I am familiar with. I would recommend sticking with 'known' brands like DEI, Compustar, or any of the others that are recommended by other users of this site.
As far as the installation goes, I would recommend picking up one of these.
This device will do door locks, arm/disarm, eliminate the need to purchase another key and second starter/accessory outputs.
Like any other job if you have the right tools and knowledge the job is not difficult. This site's users will provide you with all the knowledge you will need to do the job correctly. There are even threads on how to properly solder a connection. Do as much research as you possibly can, then determine for yourself is this is a job you are willing to try and tackle.
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 2:26 PM
Ebay links are blocked by the filter on the 12 volt forum. The bypass you'll want to buy is from bypasskits.com part #CHDL7-pk2, it will handle the 2nd start/accesory and doorlocks it must be programed by 2 programmed keys to work as the igntion bypass. This is not an easy truck for a novice. If you put it into theft mode it will cost you a tow to the dealership. Also if the dealership has the the bcm locked so you can't program keys you won't be able to program that bypass.
-------------
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 2:39 PM
This is the bypass kit I bought. Ebay item # 150043123542
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 3:52 PM
I tried your ebay item # I didn't get anything? post the brand and model #.
-------------
Posted By: green6767
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 4:31 PM
The module from bypasskit.com will help ALOT! You wont need a single relay or resistor. The module takes care of all that for you. With that module, it can be a simple truck. Again, like mentioned before, you will need both your keys to program the module. We get away with it here, since I work at a Chrysler dealership, we can use one key or programming with our StarScan scan tool. But, for everbody else who doesn't have one of those, you WILL need two keys. I am very familiar with these trucks, and I just did one just like yours on Saturday. PM me if you need help! Good luck!
-------------
Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!
12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.
Posted By: green6767
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 4:34 PM
I just looked at your bypass kit your bought off ebay. That one WONT take car of the ignition relays/resistors or the factory security. It will bypass your transponder type key and that is all. If all you're going to use is that kit you already have, you may be in for more than you want to tackle. I would HIGHLY recommend you get the CHDL7-pk2, as it will eliminate many headaches!
-------------
Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!
12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 5:09 PM
Does the CHDL7-pk2 kit also bypass all of the resistors for the parking lights, turn signals etc?
Posted By: green6767
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 6:06 PM
the CHDL7-pk2 bypasses all the resistors needed for the security, locks, and ignition. It however does not bypass the 1 Kohm resistor needed for the parking lights. This is the only resistor you will need in addition to the module. This wire is really easy to get at, and all you need is a 1 Kohm resistor inline with your NEGATIVE parking lights wire from the remote starter. The wire is a WHITE/ light green at the parking light switch. There are two of them there, you just have to test both. You can get at it by taking off the panel on the driver side of the dash. You dont need to hook anything up to the turn signals, just the negative trigger parking lights wire.
-------------
Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!
12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 6:19 PM
Ok, so I think I understand now. Boy I wish I would have gotten on here first and found all this out before buying the bypass, so the CHDL7-pk2 kit just basically allows you to arm and disarm the factory alarm through the new remote start/alarm system right? The alarm system lets you do the press disarm once for only opening the drivers door and twice for the rest but it uses a different wire for the unlock all. I m guessing since the new alarm just uses the factory alarm I would just leave that seperate wire unconnected and when I press disarm twice on the remote it will unlock all doors right?
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 6:35 PM
The other ? I have right now is that the alarm system has two wires to hook up that are "factory arm output and factory disarm output." That send a (-) signal while the remote start is running, what do I hook these up to? I would think you would hook them to the door inputs on the bypass kit module, but then the doors would be unlocked during remote start. Is this correct?
Posted By: green6767
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 6:41 PM
On the CHDL7-pk2, there is a lock and unlock wire coming from the module. You hook these up to the lock/unlock wires coming from the remote starter/alarm. With the default settings on the module, if you push lock on your remote starter/alarm it will lock all doors aswell as arm the factory alarm. If you push unlock on your remote starter/alarm remote, it will unlock all doors aswell as disarm the factory alarm system. If you want to, after finishing the install, you can program the module for drivers door priority. What this means, is that when you push lock on the remote, all the doors will lock/arm as before. The change is when you press unlock, it will only unlock the driver's door and will disarm the factory alarm. You will have to press unlock again for the rest of the doors to unlock. Some people like it this way, some dont. I prefer to leave it with the default setting of unlock/disarm all the doors on one press of the remote starter/alarm remote.
-------------
Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!
12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 3:28 PM
Got everything installed and the vehicle does not want to start? Any help? Turbo timer mode doesn't work either. I don't know what to do??? please help. The doors lock and unlock so I would think that the bypass module has to be working. Any ideas?
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 3:45 PM
I just got done putting on my first remote start. Doors lock and unlock fine using the bypasskit interface, but the truck will not crank? It goes into the start sequence and the fuel pump primes but there is no cranking at all. Truck starts fine with the key, just no remote start or turbo timer mode. Please help
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 4:47 PM
Anybody have any ideas I don't know what to do?
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 7:06 PM
I am trying to program a bypass for my 2006 dodge ram and the vehicle doesn't seem to want to enter the programming mode. I have 2 valid keys, but the vehicle won't go into progamming mode. Am I missing something?
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 12, 2006 at 3:46 PM
Follow these instructions to program most Chryslers.
1. Unplug all wire plugs from the CHDL7_PK2 module. On the side of the CHDL7-PK2 module you will find a screw under the paper label. Remove it and remove the circuit board inside. Note on one corner of the board you will see a small chip glued into the board. This is the transponder.
2. Locate and remove the screw under the ignition cylinder that secures the transponder ring and SKIM module to the ign. cylinder. Gently use a screwdriver to release the plastic clip that also holds the ring/module onto the ign. cylinder. It should be loose enough to easily pull off the cylinder. Leave it in place for now.
3. Use the first key to turn on the ignition. You will see a small red light come on in the right side of the instrument cluster. When the light goes out, after about 4 seconds, turn the key off and remove it.
4. Within a few seconds, use the second key to turn the ignition on. Watch the red light again. It will go on for a few seconds and turn off. The chimes will also sound and then stop. Wait until you see the red light come on again, then turn the second key off and remove it.
5. Quickly pull the transponder ring/module off the ignition cylinder and let it hang by the wires pluggged into it under the steering column. Hold the circuit board from the CHDL7-PK2 module next to the ring with one hand. Make sure the transponder chip in the board is in the center of the plastic loop and right next to it. Re-insert the second ignition key into the ignition cylinder and turn the ignition on while still holding the circuit board correctly. Wait until you see the red light in the cluster begin to flash on and off for a few seconds. Once this happens, the module's transponder chip has been learned by the truck.
8. With the plastic loop/SKIM module still loose, tightly wrap the thin black wire around the plastic ring 4 times. Use putty, glue or anything to hold it in place. Re-install the plastic ring/SKIM module on the key cylinder and put the module/circuit board back together. Plug in the CHDL7-PK2 and you should be good to go.
Don't use the orange, pink or pink/white wires in the CHDL7-PK2 module. You must use relays and resistors for the 2nd starter and accessory circuits in the ignition harness. If you don't the climate controls won't work and you cause trouble lights in the cluster to turn on.
You must also only use the negative parking light circuit. If you use the postive one, the parking lights may not come on during remote start.
-------------
sparky
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 13, 2006 at 7:20 AM
The problem is that the security light never comes back on after you put the second key in. The Check engine light does and starts to flash. So then I proceeded with the 3rd step, the security light flashes quickly and after about 10-15 seconds the chime sounds, the light on the module was solid after it was "programmed, I think" and all connections were made. In the instructions it says that means it is programmed. Why not use the 2nd start wire from the module, I thought that was the whole purpose of the module. Why would the vehicle not even crank, doesn't sound like a bypass problem to me, also it should run in extended run or turbo mode without the bypass right? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 13, 2006 at 5:30 PM
To determine whether or not you have a transponder issue, disconnect the CHDL7-PK2 module and slide a key into the ignition cylinder but don't turn it. Now try your remote starter. If it works fine, then you have a problem with the CHDL module. If it doesn't start then you have a problem with the remote starter install.
If the red security light doesn't come on after the second key then you aren't following the instructions correctly. You must remove the plastic transponder ring off the key cylinder but still leave it plugged in. Use a key to then turn on the ignition while holding the circuit board next to the ring.
The second starter circuit in the CHDL7-PK2 module doesn't work on the Ram pick ups. They don't tell you this in the instructions though. You must use relays and resistors for the 2nd starter and accessory wires.
-------------
sparky
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 13, 2006 at 11:42 PM
Well I will wire up a relay for the second starter wire, what wire do I use from the Remote Start to trigger the relay for the second start? The Remote start doesn't have a second start wire. Would this prevent the extended run function from working? Regarding the module programming, I am saying that I cannot get the vehicle to go into programming mode. After I put in the first valid key the security light goes out after a few seconds, remove and insert the second key, light does the same thing, but never comes back on. Thus I never make it to the next step. The Check Engine light does begin to flash after about 10-15 seconds once you insert the second key though, and if you proceed with the empty key and the module after this the security light flashes for about 10-15 seconds and then a chime was heard. I am assuming that means the module was programmed??
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 14, 2006 at 5:39 PM
For the second starter and accessory relays, you need to activate them with the negative out when running wire to terminal #85 of each relay. You must diode isolate the negative out when running for each component hooked to it (both relays and the CHDL7-PK2 module). Install the diodes with the white band towards the remote starter. The 2nd starter relays #86 terminal goes to the remote starters starter wire. The accessory relays #86 terminal goes to the accessory wire from the remote starter. I don't know why your truck doesn't conform to the correct key programming sequence, but until you have everything else working perfect, just leave a key in the ignition (don't turn it to on) and try the remote starter. Leave the wire loop around the key cylinder unplugged from the CHDL7-PK2 module. Once you know all works well, then introduce the built in transponder portion of the module to see if it did in fact program.
-------------
sparky
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 14, 2006 at 7:07 PM
Thanks for all your help. I will buy all the parts I need for the relays and go from there. Is the acc necessary to start the vehicle or is it only for climate control stuff?
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 15, 2006 at 6:51 PM
It is necessary. You must hook it up or you will have other problems besides no climate controls.
-------------
sparky
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 15, 2006 at 9:37 PM
I went to Radio Shack to buy the resistors, but they didn't have the exact ones that I need and I have no idea where else to buy them. They had 550 and 150, From what I understand I need 610 and 180. Will those work or will that not show the correct resistance and thus not activate the second start and accesory?
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 12:27 PM
Nevermind I bought some resistors online.
Posted By: jacked93
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 12:32 PM
And one of my last questions, this is the diagram I have for the wiring of second start and acc, https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/14180_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_CHRYSLERS%20STARTER%202%20AND%20ACCESSORY%20DIAGRAM.pdf 1. Is it correct? 2. Do I really need to cut the wire and run the 87A back to the wire or can I just leave it intact an skip the 87a?
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 4:25 PM
No its not correct. Split your remote starters negative out when running wire or 3rd ignition wire (ground out) into two wires each with a diode inline and the white stripe on the diode facing the remote starter. Take one end of one diode and connect it to terminal #85 of a relay. Take the other end of the other diode and connect it to the other relays terminal #85. Take one relay and call it the 2nd starter relay. Connect terminal #86 to the remote starters starter wire. If your remote starter has a 2nd starter wire ouput use it instead. If not you must also connect the trucks starter wire to this terminal. Connect # 30 to one end of a 180 ohm resistor and the other end to ground, # 87 goes to the violet/brown wire in the ignition harness. Take the second relay and connect the remote starters accessory wire to #86. # 30 to one end of a 610 ohm resistor and the other end to ground.# 87 to the violet/brown wire. Terminal 87a is not used on either relay.
-------------
sparky
|