RS problems 01 F-150

ok, here's the deal.

Buddy's 01 F150. Keyless entry.GEM.

RS system is Avital 4300.

Hooked up dome as door triggers to avoid diose isolating everything. GOt the Wake up for the GEM correct.

Door L/UL work perfect.

Problem is RS won't work at all. Picked up tach wire (dk blue/lt green) at PCM pin 26.
Leaned the Tach into the alarm. Using the 555f and even tried the 556UW, niether will remote start it. Hooked them up to power, ground and Blue Status wire from alarm.

WHen I try to remote start it, the dash lights up like in run, but the starter wont crank at all. WIll start with Key .


Tried two different 556UWs and still does not work. Anu suggestions????

make sure you have youre starter output going to the starter side when you try to remote strart it put youre tester on the purple wire and see if it throws out power

also it has nothing to do with youre bypass modules because it would atleast crank t hey always crank even if it doesnt see the immobilizer 

No they don't always crank, some cars do and some don't. The easiest way to tell if your problem is with the immobilizer is to place the key in the ignition without turning it. If the RS works now it's not seeing the key. If it still won't work your problem is elsewhere...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Doesn't sound like an immobilizer problem. If I remember in the fords, tey always cranked if you didn't have that bypassed correctly, they would just never catch ignition....just sit and crank. It sounds more like a starter wire issue. Is your remote starter putting out a starter signal output from the starter wire? Does that particular remote starter give error codes at all? Do you have the brake wire hooked up correctly?

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

brake wire is functional. Starter side of wire powers up when RS is activated.

well, just in case, have you tried leaving the key in the ignition, disconnecting the bypass and remote starting that way?

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

Yep, it doesn't work. BTW, when I go into diagnostic mode it tells me "low or no RPM" which in my mind, means the tach wire is wrong. ButIt would still crank right??

I went into the programming and tried voltage sense instead of Tach and it still doesn't work.

Tried two different brains, no luck.

well, by those diagnostics, I would say it's a tach problem. I know on some remote starters, it doesn't always crank if the tach setting is wrong. Since its not a bad brain, I would say run a wire to the engine bay and hook up to a reliable tach source. Preferably one of the coils in the engine bay.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

As Green has mentioned, the starter will crank in your truck even if it is an immobilizer problem, it will just never start.

My personal vehicle is an 01 F150, and originally I used the recommended tachometer wire. It read fine when using my DMM, and all seemed well for a while. Then, at random the starter would stop just short of starting the truck. I thought it may have just lost programming, and reprogrammed it but it was still the same. At random, it would not run the starter quite long enough. I moved the tachometer wire from the tachometer to an odd colored injector wire, reprogrammed and have not had a problem since.

I came across a batch of starters from DEI not too long ago, where the negative triggers to the satellite relay pack where incorrect. Specifically the second ignition (pink/white) was operating as the starter output, not the second ignition. I would recommend testing the ribbon cable between the brain and the XCRS to verify operations.

go into the engine bay to either a coil or a fuel injector. there will be two wires each. i use a test light to test for tach, but a meter works too.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

DEI has this posted for tach


FORD, F SERIES LIGHT DUTY, 2001, Tachometer

Tach wire: on the 4.2L it is a dk. blue/lt. green at the coil pack on top of the motor. On the 4.6L go to any of the 8 ignition coils and use the wire that is not RED / green. On the 5.4L it is a lt. GREEN / WHITE at the coil on the passenger side of the motor between the fuel injectors.

Should clear it right up for you.

Well, I grabbed the dk blue / lt green at the pcm pin 26 listed on Code alarm website. metering it yields 12

Tachometer connections are AC voltage, not DC. And I am not trying to offend anyone, but it has been my experience that the Audiovox/Code alarm information on the web, although pretty good is not as accurate as Directechs. Even with the good information all circuits should be tested with a DMM PRIOR to connecting to them!

I would go to an injector for the tach signal, for about two years now dei changed there units and they have a hard time learning the tach wires of fords.  Look at the injectors and each  should have a common colored wire and one thats differant for each injector use that one.

Use an injector wire that is not RED and it will work for you.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA