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06 Toyota 4Runner Remote Start, Windows

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85221
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 7:16 PM


Topic: 06 Toyota 4Runner Remote Start, Windows

Posted By: jproc
Subject: 06 Toyota 4Runner Remote Start, Windows
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 8:39 AM

Just installed a compustar alarm/rs and bypass in a 06 4runner. When I remote start the truck the airbag light comes on. When I start it with the key there's no light. No factory alarm, and everything else works fine. Any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 8:47 AM
This sounds as if you may have missed one of the required wires. Did you hook up both ignitions and the accessory? Verify that you have voltage to all the required wires while remote starting.


DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / 4RUNNER / 2006 / Remote Start

[PRINT THIS PAGE]

12volts      WHITE/ blue (50A), red (30A)       +       ignition harness
Starter      GREEN/ black       +       ignition harness
Second Starter      N/A            
Ignition      BLACK/ red       +       ignition harness
Second Ignition      blue / YELLOW       +       ignition harness
Third Ignition      N/A            
Accessory      WHITE/ green       +       ignition harness
Second Accessory      N/A            
Keysense      GREEN/ YELLOW       -       ign harn or BECU, top plug, pin 14
Notes: Using the status output to trigger this wire during remote start will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors.

The Body ECU is part of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The three plugs on the right side edge of the fuse box are for the Body ECU.
Power Lock      blue       -       driver kick, 18 pin plug
Notes: Meter the wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock      green (double pulse)       -       driver kick, 18 pin plug
Notes: Meter the wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Lock Motor      blue/red to BLACK/ white       5wi      driver kick, 13 pin plug
Unlock Motor      blue/black to BLACK/ red       5wi      driver kick, 13 pin plug
Parking Lights+      green       +       left of fuses, 16 pin plug
Parking Lights-      green       -       BECU, top plug, pin 8
Notes: The Body ECU is part of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The three plugs on the right side edge of the fuse box are for the Body ECU.
Hazards      white       -       hazard switch
Turn Signal(L)      blue/black       +       left of fuses, 16 pin plug
Turn Signal(R)      blue / YELLOW       +       left of fuses, 16 pin plug
Reverse Light      RED / yellow       +       left of fuses, 16 pin plug
Door Trigger      purple / YELLOW       -       BECU, top plug, pin 12
Notes: Can also use individual door trigger wires in the middle plug at the BECU. The driver door trigger is RED / black in pin 23, the passenger door is RED / yellow in pin 24, the left rear door is pink/black in pin 11, and the right rear door is pink/blue in pin 12. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

The Body ECU is part of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The three plugs on the right side edge of the fuse box are for the Body ECU.
Dome Supervision      white       -       plug to right of fuses, pin 8
Trunk/Hatch Pin      GREEN/ YELLOW       -       back door ECU in hatch
Hood Pin      pink/green       -       driver kick, blue 18 pin plug
Trunk/Hatch Release      N/A            
Power Sliding Door      N/A            
Factory Alarm Arm      arms with lock            
Factory Alarm Disarm      disarms with unlock            
Disarm No Unlock      use key sense wire            
Tachometer      BLACK/ white       ac       ECM, 2nd plug from bottom, pin 1
Notes: The ECM (Engine Control Module) is behind the glovebox.

On the 6 cylinder models, you can also find this wire at the data link connector under the driver side dash.
Wait to start      N/A            
Brake Wire      GREEN/ YELLOW       +       left of fuses, 16 pin plug
Parking Brake      lt. green       -       BECU, middle plug, pin 2
Notes: The Body ECU is part of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The three plugs on the right side edge of the fuse box are for the Body ECU.
Horn Trigger      GREEN/ red       -       horn switch
Memory Seat 1      pink       -       memory seat switch on dash
Memory Seat 2      purple       -       memory seat switch on dash
Memory Seat 3      N/A       -      
Interface Module:      Category:
Immobilizer Bypass      Required:
Yes      Type:
Transponder
Part #: 556UW
Alternate Part1 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models.
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available


warning      
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.






Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 9:20 AM

yep, accessory and second ignition are hooked up. I tried hooking up the keysense wire to the bypass, but no help there either. All connections were tested and soldered. Thanks Twelvoltz





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 10:15 AM
Take a look at the ignition switch itself and see if there are more wires than what is listed on the sheet. The sheets are always a good guide, but not always 100% accurate. I have run across a couple of vehicles that required more than what the sheets list. I would recommend testing all the wires coming from the switch to determine their function, and energize one at a time with the proper output (ignition, accessory, etc) if your light goes out, then make a permanent connection using a relay to the wire that solved the problem.

The other thing I would recommend trying is if there is no other wires coming from the switch, I would try energizing the accessory as ignition when remote starting. I run into this a lot on Dodge trucks, where the check engine light will trip after remote start if one of the accessory wires is energized as an accessory, for some reason the ECM does not like the delay of accessory power returning, so I set it to ignition output and all is good.




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 5:03 PM
Shouldn't be a problem, i do lots of 4Runners. As long as the two ignitions stay powered during crank this should not happen. You really don't even need the accessory wire, so i know that's not it. Could it possibly be something in your bypass hookups?

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: November 06, 2006 at 5:17 PM
Definately sounds like an issue with that 2nd ignition wire. Put your test light on it and activate the remote start to watch it and see what it's doing.

Mike




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 07, 2006 at 8:40 AM
I plan on hooking up 2 window modules to a 4runner. I'm using 2 crimestopper cs5501s for rear/sunroof and 2 front windows. I might forget the rear in favor of open/close on sunroof. Anyone have experience with 4th gen 4runners? I've already tapped into the sunroof motor (bypassing any circuit boards). Is this an open, 12v, or ground at rest system? Thanks




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 07, 2006 at 8:53 AM
Thanks, I'll check the sceond ign. Mike, I'm installing window modules in my 4th gen 4runner (posted a new one in this section) any hints?




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 07, 2006 at 8:53 AM
 DRIVER WINDOW UP Extend lock pulse to roll up window      
 DRIVER WINDOW DOWN Extend unlock pulse to roll down window      
 PASSENGER WINDOW UP Extend lock pulse to roll up window      
 PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN Extend unlock pulse to roll down window      
 LEFT REAR WINDOW UP Extend lock pulse to roll up window      
 LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN Extend unlock pulse to roll down window      
 RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP Extend lock pulse to roll up window      
 RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN Extend unlock pulse to roll down window      


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Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 07, 2006 at 12:43 PM
hooking up some modules and can't figure out if the windows are open, grounded, or live at rest. I'm hooking up the sunroof, rear window, and front two to a crimestopper module. Set my compustar outputs to latch (-). Thanks




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: November 08, 2006 at 12:05 PM
Window mods just aren't needed for the side windows or the back window for that matter. Extra channels off the alarm brain can already do these functions....

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 09, 2006 at 11:44 AM
Thanks mike. Should I tap into the wire near thr motor, switch or find them in the kick panel? You wouldn't have colors for these would you?




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 09, 2006 at 11:46 AM
Oh yeah, will I burn the motors out? I have my compustar outputs set to negative trigger latch instead of pulse.




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: November 09, 2006 at 3:16 PM

You want your channel outputs to have a negative trigger as long as you hold the button in, which in most cases is the pulse setting.All you need to do is simply tie the channel output directly to the drivers door key cylinder wires. They are blue for lock and up , green for unlock and down. you will find them in the divers door harness in the kick panel. These are the same wires you should have your lock wires connected to for your alarm. The longer you give a negative to the wire the further down the windows will go.

As for the back window, you need two relays. wire them to give 12volts out when you press the channel on the remote. Feed 12volts from them to 1) the BLACK/ blue on the back of the dash switch 2)the 1st ignition wire at the igntion switch. Again, as long as you hold the remote button down the further it will go. For rear window up you need a third relay, powering the up wire on the switch(can't remember the color) and the same igntion wire as down.



-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 9:18 AM

Ok, I cut the accessory from the RS and hooked up 2nd ignition to accessory in the truck. PRESTO! no airbag light! Thanks a bunch. Also I ran into updated compustar remote programming, it's under tech bulletins here... https://www.staub.ca/tech/index.html. Now for the windows....





Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 10:45 AM
ok windows are giving me attitude. I'm applying constant - trigger to the lock wires in the kick panel....no good. tried with key on...no good. extended unlock pule to 2.5 seconds, no good. took apart the door and tried at the motor and swich ... no good.




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 11:39 AM
windows don't roll up or down with the key turned in the door, unique to 03+ 4runners?




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: November 12, 2006 at 8:47 AM

LF Window up/dn

 see notes    
Notes: Extended triggers on the door lock/unlock wires will roll the windows up/down. Use validity channels to control.

This is from DEI's website. I have personally tried this and it works....



-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 12, 2006 at 3:45 PM
No good on my 06 sr5. Toyota's manual doesn't mention windows rolling from outside, except the rear, and I tried it in the drivers door (only door with a keyhole). Thanks a bunch though Mike. Also I used a SPDT relay on my compustar 3000 brain and programmed the aux for latch (continous _ output) and the sunroof. Hit it once and it stops at close, again and it vents. Anyone interested and I'll post the details...




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: November 13, 2006 at 2:45 PM

Yeah Jproc, I would like to know how you did it, and where were the wires you tapped into for the sunroof.  Also, I was playing around with a 06 4 runner sport today and I couldn't get the doorlock cylinder to move the windows either. Only the back one moved the hatch's window.  I ordered 2 dei 530's to do the other windows, but if anyone else knows any insight to why the key cylinder is not opening and closing the windows that would be great info also.

Thanks

Frank





Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: November 13, 2006 at 3:07 PM
Hmmm, maybe it's an option on just the higher end ones, like the Limited. The Sport is a basic model...

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 14, 2006 at 12:54 PM

I forgot how to wire the relay but one is constant 12v, one is ground, one is aux output (- trigger), and one is out to sunroof switch. I know 87a was not used. run the output wire up the side and up into the overhead console. You may have to pull the pillar panel and some weatherstripping.

First pull down the overhead console at the front near the windshield. There's a harness plugged into the motor right there.

Alway test w/ a multimeter!

Constant- blue/ orange (thicker wire)

Ignition-BLACK/ red

switch close- gray

cut the ignition and splice the motor side wire (the one on the harness side)into 12v constant. Now you can operate it without the key in the ignition.

then tap the output into the gray switch close wire. I imagine you could do the same for open, but I haven't tried it. Vent is good enough for me.





Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: November 17, 2006 at 5:21 PM

I got the 2 530T's in yesterday and installed them.  The 4 runner I was working on was a sport and would not roll down with the keylock in the drivers door. I used the wires at the switch itself in the drivers door.  The wires in the drivers kick panel change colors.  Since I did it all in the Drivers door, I only have those wire colors. Also, I didn't bother to write down which one was up and which one was down. (I was already running late!) . You'll have to test them with your meter. They where type A wiring. Here's the info I Got:

light green -     driver rear
light blue-    driver rear

blue w/2 silver dots -    driver front
blue / black stripe- driver front

pink/black stripe-   passenger front
pink-     passenger front

pink/blue stripe-   passenger rear
gray-     passenger rear

Hopefully this will save someone some time. Frank





Posted By: jproc
Date Posted: November 18, 2006 at 8:02 PM
Thanks Frank, what do you mean type A? Is that circuit open at rest, negative triggered?




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: November 18, 2006 at 8:38 PM
That means Its reversal rest at ground. 





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