DEI 791xv, 2004 Taurus SEL

Has anyone worked on a 2004 Ford Taurus' door locks? What type do they use in this car, 3 Wire Negative, 3 Wire Positive, 4 Wire Reversal, ETC... ?

Also, we need to diode isolate the door triggers. We were told by several different places that they should be 7 amp diodes. We looked all over but couldn't locate any. Does anyone know where we can find these at? Thanks.

The locks are neg type.

1 amp diodes are fine.
Look for 1N4001 diodes

OK thanks. I couldn't find a wiring diagram of the 3 wire negative, so I photoshoped the picture below. Does it look like it's wired correctly?

Also, which direction does the diode band go? Toward the aftermarket alarm trigger wire, or away from it?

Don't know what alarm your installing, but relays aren't needed. Just connect the negative pulse outputs of the alarm direstly to the pink/green and pink / YELLOW wires in the car, drivers kick panel. Also, you can use the dome light wire for door trigger if you wish, it's a positive BLACK/ blue also found in the drivers kick panel. Beware tho, it has a long dome light delay when arming...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

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Don't know what alarm your installing

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Directed 791xv. It mentions viewing techtip 1041 which, saddly, we don't have (can anyone share this with us?). We were told by others that it needs relays and obviously we are concerned about burning something out without them. I guess techtip 1041 goes into this further.

[quote]Also, you can use the dome light wire for door trigger if you wish, it's a positive BLACK/ blue also found in the drivers kick panel. Beware tho, it has a long dome light delay when arming...[/QUOTE]
Use this with a relay correct?

OK we were able to locate a copy of TechTip 1041 and it does indeed verify that a relay is not needed, and to think that we've been going without this feature all this time. Oh well, better safe than sorry. Thanks Mike M2 for bringing this to our attention :)

We just need someone to tell us what direction the diodes should be facing for the door triggers and we should be set. Toward the aftermarket alarm trigger wire, or away from it?

We're using a DEI 791xv with a 2004 Taurus SEL (has both keyless and Securilock). The 791xv has two wires that tap into and control the factory alarm. The light GREEN/ black controls factory disarm, and the GREEN / WHITE controls rearm.

What wires do we connect these to on the Taurus, and where should we pick them up at?

We were told that the factory disarm wire is pink/white at the generic electronic module, can anyone verify that? And what about the factory arm wire, which one should we use for that? Thanks!

FACTORY DISARM

Pink/white

In driver's kickpanel

-

It should arm with lock.

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We're installing our first 1100F immobilizer bypass. We have several questions about it;

The instructions say "Press the programming button once or twice to select the installation type. 1= Unused Installation mode and 2= Standard Installation mode"

Our first question is what is a "unused' installation?

Secondly, if you look at the diagram it shows blue/white as being 'ground when running'. How do we use this, hook up a relay and have it controlled by the ignition with its output going to ground?

Thirdly, how do we connect the gray/red (ECM TX) and GREEN/ red (ECM RX) wires?

Thanks for all of your help with this.

GWR is the status wire... every R/S unit out there has some type of GWR wire....with a DEI unit it is your blue status wire

TX & RX just solder right onto the appropriate wire.....

just select Standard install mode... it always helps when asking for help to include the brand and model of R/S involved as well as the MY of vehicle involved.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

If you are installing a viper or a avital "Any DEI remote start" you will get the Ground When Start from the relay pack that has all of your ignition wires. There will be a little harnes on the back that has a blue wire that is - status output. Thats what you want. On Avital 4000 units it will be right on the brain -200mA status output.

Sorry, it's being used with a DEI 791xv. The blue wire is part of a ribbon wire so should we tap into it? Also, it's only 200ma. Do we need a relay?

This is going into a 2004 Taurus. What are the color codes for the Ford RX and TX wires, and where can they be found? Thanks.

I just noticed that there is a blue/white that is status for the remote start. Is 200ma good enough to drive the immobilzer directly, or should we use a relay with it?

yea use the blue/white from (i think 6pin plug on the brain) instead of the one at the relay pack.

connect it directly, no relay needed. (should be blue/white to blue/white)

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Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.

OK thanks captainzab

How do you test for which wire is the correct ignition 2 wire and which wire is the correct heater (blower motor) wire? The reason why I ask is that one place is telling us they're one color code, and onother place is telling us it's another color code, so we'd like to test each to see which one is correct. It's for a 2004 taurus. Thanks.

grab a meter and well,    METER THEM

ign's will show voltage right through, Acc's will drop out during crank....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I'm sure by now most of you have removed ignition switches in Fords to install remote starts. This is our first one and we're having a bit of trouble with removing it. The instructions on THIS page (see the bottom of the page) say "to remove the IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER, a TORX #15 Bit on a Screw Driver will work just fine. Insert it up into this hole and press, at the same time, turning the IGNITION SWITCH ON and the Tumbler will pull out at the same time."

We are doing what it suggests but it won't come out :( Is this a button that we need to press? What's the trick?

Ive installed quite a few R/S systems in fords with different transponder bypasses some with "chips" that go near the transponder ring and most with the ring that goes near it and I have never had to take apart the ignition normally I just take the bottom of the column off and then take off the black part on the outside of the column the "Key turner" if you will. Which bypass are you using?

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2008 Scion xB
Pioneer AVIC-D3
RF 3Sixty.2 sound processor
Stock speakers (for now ;))

DEI 1100F.

We finally were able to get it but we had to use an awl. If I'm looking at this correctly then it does look like those wires run through some shrink tubing to a bright green plug. The plug would be much easier to get to than the connector on the ring. I'm guessing the only reason why they make you remove the ignition switch is that the color codes change from time to time. Other than that It would be much easier to just grab them underneith the dash.

By the way, while we're on the subject of remote starters, where do you guys get the tan / YELLOW Tach wire at? Can we grab this at the tach itself?

best place for tach will be at a coil in the engine bay.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

We're having trouble with it remote starting. Here is what happens:

1. We press the button on the remote twice to remote start.
2. Car starts and runs for around 5-10 seconds and then stops.

The 1100F bypass is flashing 3 times and that's supposed to be correct.

However we also noticed that the airbag light in the dash is flashing once, then 8 times. Not sure if this is a seperate problem or not.

We tried to teach the tach by pressing the valet button, but the LED does not light (we held it for around 1 minute).

We also tried to switch it to tach threshold on but the same thing happens (starts and shuts down).

Any ideas on what might be causing this to act up this way?

Me and some other guys here have had bad luck using the tach wire from the ECM on certain Fords. Try going to an injector wire or a single coil once and then reprogram tach. Use any wire thats not red...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

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Try going to an injector wire or a single coil once and then reprogram tach. Use any wire thats not red...

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Yes that's what we're doing, we're using a single spark plug wire. Turns out the airbag light was coming on because the radio was disconnected. The 791xv wouldn't program the tach wire because the valet switch was bad. We'll pick up a new one tommorow.

The only issue that we're having now is that we can't get any of the door triggers to work :( One place tells us they are positive. Another place says they are negative. We tried both (purple and green) with the diodes but we still get errors from the 791xv when we test either positive or negative :(

kgerry wrote:

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ign's will show voltage right through, Acc's will drop out during crank...

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Well that's the thing, one place say's the ign 2 is a BLACK/ lt. green, another says it's gray / YELLOW. BOTH drop out during crank So are you saying that both of these places are wrong?