87 mustang door locks

First off my car is an 87 mustang GT, I have a Viper 5900 alarm system on...
My problem is that my cars door lock actuators hasnt been working for awhile so I bought universal ones at an alarm, I just hooked everything up and worked fine for like 5 days to a week and stoped working.?? I opend the case and the motor was burnt...

SO do you think it is because the door lock pulse is set to 0.8 seconds?? should I lower it to 0.4?? dunno any help.

What type of actuators did you buy. 2 wire or 5 wire. AND...did you wire them up with relays, and if so, how did you wire the relays?

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I got the two wire actuators...
The door lock wires (not the actuators) are wired up with 2 relays (5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks), the diagram I followed on this site https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp

ok, so I checked the ireing with a meter...  k, when you lock the door it shows about 6 volts, but when locked it shows a constant 28.3 volts??  Did I do any thing wrong with the wireing of the relay??

can anyone help.

I have gone through 4 actuators now and they all stoped working or burnt? I changed the fuse in the 5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks relay that I did, and also change the door lock pulse to 0.4 from the original settings?

would I need a seperate relay or something, I am really stump on what else to do??

Unless your car is plugged into the wall or something 28 volts is physically impossible. You might want to check your meter. Should be on DC volts. Second, are you replacing factory actuators or aftermarket. If they were factory, just tie them into the factory wiring.

they are aftermarket actuators, the factory ones were gone along time ago.... it actually getting 12volts lock/unlock but ill double check....

they are aftermarket actuators, the factory ones were gone along time ago.... it actually getting 12volts lock/unlock but ill double check....

k i checked it out and it gets 12.7 un-locked and 12.7 locked... but I still dont get why it would burn my actuators? I know when it locks it stays 12.7 for like a couple seconds right??

anyone know what els i can do??

what size fuse in your lock relay pack off the alarm (15A) jus use existing wires factory to actuators and if these two things are correct then your actuators are binding meaning that to much force is being exerted on doorlock  rod and need to readjust so they move smoothly and freely jus try testing each door by itself before tappin into factory wires and power the actrs with your drill battery 9.6 V or higher pos neg of drill to actr then reverse batt to reverse doorlock motion once they work fine off your drill batt then proceed to hook up to factory wires if they burn up at that point then you know the problem is in your alarm wires or alarm lock relays also check factory switchs make sure they are not sticking use your dmmeter to check the wires if they continue to see power without rest then burn actrs so set output for shortest possible setting .4

fuse I used was a 10A then 5A the 10A again.... Binding?? hmmm dont get it, I tested it my manualy locking the door by pushing the lock down with finger and it goes smoothly?? checked meter, when I press the lock on alarm it see's 12.7 volts when unlocked then the same 12.7 volts locked...

when I press the arm button it shows 12.7 constant for awhile (20 sec) then goes to zero..

dunno, the first set worked for like a week?? then the others for like 5 days or so??

lock pulse should be .4 seconds longer  willburn after a short time  binding means working to hard to push or pull test with a battery as stated cut the wires back off the factory wires test batt to one actr then test other door

ye, thats what I set the lock puls to .4, because I had a feeling that it was to long of a wait before it grounds?

as of now I dont have another set to test since both burnt :-(

I dont think its binding because its like loose and free moving...

so how do you really know if it is really binding? I realy dont know how to tell if its binding?

disconnect the lock/unlock wires from the car a meter the voltage coming out of the brain. Is it staying hot for the 20 or so seconds like you said? If so, bad unit. If not, double check your relays used for the 5 wire interface on your pink / YELLOW and pink/green factory wires. Possible they may be sticking causing the burn up. You need to figure out why its giving you a 20 second pulse before connecting any actuators because a pulse that long will just keep burning them up.

ok, I checked the blue/green (unlock/lock)wires, and tested it with my meter and it does still give me a 20 seconds delat before goes to 0. I changed it back to .8 and .4 still the same, should I try 3.5?? if it still does it, is there anyway to fix it? I really do want my alarm to lock/unlock the doors when I press arm/disarm...

Thanks for all your help..

I just figured it out why it was giving a 20 sec. pulse, because I activated the comfort colsue freature, which "comfort closure supply a 20 second pulse on the lock/unlock wire 200 milliseconds after you lock or unlock. This triggers the factory automatic windows."

It is for built in window modules with one touch feature...

:-)

guess Im gonna buy another set of actuators.......

it sounds like i have a simular problem.. i just bought a keyless entry for my 1988 mustang. 
i took apart the door unlock/lock consule (on the door) so i could find the right wires.  there were 5 differnt wires ( i think) i found the 2 wires who's power jumps to 12v when you hit the lock button, and the unlock button.  i used a wire to jump the wires to just make sure that they worked if u hit it with a 12 volt positive sorce.. they work (kinda seemed slow but i ignored that, it wasnt to bad)  so i found the 2 wires.  i hooked them to the door unlock and lock on my keyless entry system and i gave the 3rd wire a positive sorce.  (just like the wirediagram says to do .  meaning when u unlock or lock, it give the doors a positive 12V sorce off the battery.  (seems fine) i hooked up everything else (it also had a car alarm so i had to hook the lights and trunk release and all that up)  i hit the door lock key when i was done and everything worked perfectly except the doors did not lock or unlock..  i pulled the whole alarm apart.   ..  i found that as soon as the power was sent to the door, the small 10 amp fuse would blow..  i couldnt figure out why, i figured it was just a small fuse becuase the motor stuck or something.. so i manually toched the door lock and unlock wires with a 12 volt sorce and the fuse would blow.   the door controls all work fine (meaning i didnt destroy them doing this) but i cant figured out why puting a positvie to the controls doesnt unlock or lock them.  

im going to guess and say the other wires in the control thing have to do with why the doors dont unlock/lock.. my keyless entry cn be set up for differnt types of locks (vacum, reverese negative, positive)  i set them up as a positive.  should it be set up as a negative? i think that would destroy the alarm, the system i thought was positive... the wires i taped into were both pink, ( im not 100% sure of the stripe colors, i think one was black and the other was yellow?)   there are also 2 other pink wires and a black wire (should i use that black wire as a source of power, and not the 12v sorce i have ?)  im lost..  please help me.. it sounds like you guys have some understanding of what you are doing..

THANKS!!!!

The locks on the 88 mustang are 5 wire. Look in the relay wiring guide for the correct setup. Your wire colors should be pink / YELLOW and pink/green. It may be easier to just grab them in the kick panel instead of having to go through the boot. should be in both driver and passenger door harnesses.

wow.. im really confussed...   does anyone know how to install keyless entry on a mustang (1988)  im 100% sure that this system is REverse polatiry..

LEFT DOOR
 pink/black  + when you hit unlock
                      normally -
Pink/Oragne + when you hit lock
                       normally -
RIGHT DOOR
pink/green  + when you hit unlock
                     normally -
pink / YELLOW  + when you hit lock
                      normally -
BOTH DOORS
Black,  + always +

what i got to work with is 2 relays that are on my alarm ..

white wire   (87a) lock relay  (normally closed)
green wire   (30) lock relay (common)
Blue Wire     (30) unlock relay (common)
Brown wire   (87a) Unlock Relay (normally closed)
Violet wire    (87)  lock/unlock relays  (normally open)

please let me know.. im going to try and figure this out.. but please let me know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have alot of homework this week, and time is running out.. mostliky i have to work on it over thanksgiving break.. let me know!!! thanks!!!

hmmm... tel me if this sound right..

hook the pink/black wire and the Pink/green wire together and hook it on the common (lock) end of the relay

hook the pink/oragne  and the pink / YELLOW to the commen (unlock)

and hook the normally open to the 12v +
 
and the normally closed (both) to the - (ground)

it still sounds like it will short out..
it really really sounds like it will just short out
 but that also seems like the only way to do it??? 
please let me know!!!!!!!
i dont want to wreck my locks and stuff on my car
!! 
once i get this all done with, ill take some pictures... !! its pretty nifty on the inside..  

what kind of alarm do you have?

i spent all day triing to figure it out.. haha.. i guess i was wrong..

i have a  ASTRA ASTRA600 6-Relay Car Alarm with 5-Button Remote

there are 2 relays that control the doors.  the same us above.. 

 white wire   (87a) lock relay  (normally closed)
green wire   (30) lock relay (common)
Blue Wire     (30) unlock relay (common)
Brown wire   (87a) Unlock Relay (normally closed)
Violet wire    (87)  lock/unlock relays  (normally open)

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can you tell me how you did it??
right now im working with the wires under my right dash.. i removed that panel there, and i cut each of the wires for the door..

pink/black 
Pink/Oragne
pink/green 
pink / YELLOW 

each one is then run up to my system.. so there is a todal of 8 wires there.. (each one is cut in half)
my problem is that it just shorts out becuase the locks stay on the grounded side.. im kinda getting mad now.. haha..

how did you hook the system up to your mustang?
how did you system work? like mine? 
it doesnt seem to make sence becuase sometimes the same wires are +12 when you hit lock and +12 when you hit unlock.. and normally - .. so i dont know.. im sure if i fiddle with it more i will get it, but also im scared of wrecking something, or killing my battery.. becuase im just working outside, and it is way cold.. so the heater is blasting..  and the lights are all on.. ... i am glad i got everything else working, just not the locks..  i dont know if i said it before, but i got a 1988 mustang lx 

i just followed the relay diagram here on the site.. you have original power locks right? the 88 should be the same wires as my 87...

ill see if i can get what wires go to in each relay

k,

here is what mine is wired...
RELAY 1:

86 - ALARM UNLOCK WIRE
87A - PINK/LIGHT GREEN (SWITCH)
30 - PINK/LIGHT GREEN (MOTOR)
87,85 - 12+ V FUSED

RELAY 2:

86,87 - 12+ V FUSED
87A - Pink / YELLOW (SWITCH)
30 - Pink / YELLOW (MOTOR)
85 - ALARM LOCK WIRE

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ON RELAYS 1&2 YOU CAN CONNECT THE 87,86,87,85 12+ V FUSED TO ONE WIRE...

Im not to familiar with you alarm so yea...

thanks alot.. ill see if that works... it sounds like it should. 
the only thing, where did you splice in? i am after the door.. i spliced in write between the doors.   did you cut your wires in half? i guess if u did, then you would be working in the door right?  to control the motor.    ill try it useing the wires i have from under my dash right now.. and see how that works..  but anyway.. thanks alot!! it saved me alot of time

it just blows the fuse... let me guess.. did you do your connections in the door? i followed how u said it, but i just blowes.. i checked my relay, it seems okay yet..   your way makes sence, but on my system (atleast the wires im useing) the wire stays grouned, and when it adds that positive sorce it just blowes..  do both your doors unlock? or just one of them?   what do u mean by (switch) (motor)  .. i really am thinking you did the connections in your door.. haha..  how easy was it to run those wires ?  well anyway thanks for all your help..

if u did it in the door, how did u tak all the siding off? or did u just take off the stuff around the speaker? i think i need a funny looking screawdriver to take the whole thing off.. or maybe a nutdriver.. hmm.. ill have to try that .. i have to atleast get my driver door working

I did all the spliceing in the drivers kick panel, underneath the dash on the left side... when you take out the side panel you should see a plug, its tucked up under there, the wires are there, the pinl / YELLOW & pink/lt. green wires are there...

what I mean by swith and motor is that you have to cut the wires and one wire goes to the lock actuator and the other to the switches... both my door locks work, when you unlock with the remote both lock/unlock...

sorry for not replying sooner been busy with school...

thanks alot!!! NOW IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!!  

so how did you get it to work?

i had the wires switched.. i had the switch wires going where the motor ones should go.. haha..  thanks alot man.. !   i had it right the first time then, and i was like, no, and i changed the wires around, and then it blow.. then i cut even more wires.. haha... i should of just switched it the first time.. haha.. thanks alot!

hehe :-) yea I had the same problem to, switched the wires around lol, but glad to hear you got things working.....

BTW heres a tip for doorlocks on all 87-93 mustangs.

Simply remove the left front factory dash grill and speaker. Pull on the taped harness that runs along the firewall and bring it through the speaker hole. It is alot easier to access it there then under the dash, kick or door.

It's 5 wire pink yellow, pink green as anywhere you grab it. Wire the relays there and push it all back into the hole, secure with zip ties, remount the speaker and grill and connect the trigger wires to the alarm. Piece of cake.

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