2006 F150 remote start

I took a factory remote start out of a 2005 f150, and now im putting it in a 2006 f150. The rs already has the bypass with it, just plugs into the box. The way they had it hooked up before was tachless, can i do this again? or do i have to program tach. Plus, there is a violet/red starter (keyside interupt), and a violet starter interrupt (motorside), they had the keyside violet/red cut, and just the violet (motorside wire) hooked up to the starter. Will this work in this applications? Becuase i tried hooking both wires up, and the car would not start with the key. The unit says ford motor company remote start system with keyless entry, code systems. I am not using the keyless entry just the rs.

I was unaware of a factory remote start on the F series trucks? You learn somethin new every day...

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It's a code alarm unit I belive... And good luck getting any info on it... They probably didnt cut the starter wire and just tapped the output side into the starter wire on the truck... everything should be the same as far as the truck goes... I don't know if your bypass will work.. you can try it but it probably has to be reprogramed to the 2 new keys...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

Man , that RS is a real POS. The way they design the thing is just rediculous. On top of that, the install guide is the size of a phone book and programming instructions totally confusing....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Two things, any idea where i can get the book?
Second. I have everything hooked up, programmed tach, don't know if it confirmed though, cause the unit has no light on it. What happens is, the lights come up, the dash lights come on, as though it's getting ready to start, but there is no crank, the security light blinks like crazy on top of the dash, but the truck has no disarm wire. Any ideas?

The bypass module is probally not programed for that truck.

Anyone have an idea how to reprogram it? I honestly have no idea which bypass it is, it is a black box, with a wire coming out of it, that plugs directly into the rs, the other wire is the loop. It has no brand name or anything.

"Man , that RS is a real POS. The way they design the thing is just rediculous."

I would like to hear a little more on this. I install these systems every day and have yet to find a system I like better.

"the install guide is the size of a phone book"

That's because it tells you wire for wire what to connect for every ford/lincoln/merc. Should they make it more difficult?

"and programming instructions totally confusing...."

I've memorized what options/banks I need and program these units blind can't be that difficult. I've found it to be much easier than some other units. Like anything else the first one you do can be rough.


Also to the original poster you don't need the voilet/red. And the bypass (1L2Z?) should work fine you just have to reprogram it. When it learns tach the park lights flash every 3 seconds. Programming is through the disarm/valet button and the LED, you don't need access to the module at all. Also will PM you give me a call and I will walk you through programming.

Mike

that a RF ID universal probably.. crack it open and see if there is a key in it.. if not get a XK04 PKFORD bypass form bypasskits.com and follow the destructions or if it has a key in it, then put your spare in and it should work....

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

There's no way you can tell me it's easier than any DEI or Avox to install.The design is silly because they force you to hook things up whether you wish to or not. There's no varying from the designed install.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

"There's no way you can tell me it's easier than any DEI or Avox to install."

Always liked the DEI and Audiovox modules because they have harnesses coming out of every side of the module, external starter kill relays, and flip flop locks. What a pain. The ford units have built in ign 1, ign 2, starter kill, acc 1, acc 2, 5 wire locks, 5 wire trunk, 5 wire driver door, domelight sup, and park lights. That's easy!

"The design is silly because they force you to hook things up whether you wish to or not."

Example? You can hookup the barebones on these and have a perfectly working system there are NO hookups beyond the very basics, which you would need to hookup on ANY system.

Mike

I just reprogrammed the bypass, and everything worked. Thanks a lot for the help Mike.

So, after a few days, the r/s stopped working, just turns on the acc, no crank. So i unplugged the bypass, put the key in the ignition, hit r/s, and it starts, which leads me to believe, somehow the bypass got reprogrammed, and ideas?

Unless you had the dealer program you new keys recently, there's a very slim chance that it lost programming. Most likely the ring around the ignition cylinder moved and needs to be repositioned. Another possibility is that the output from the module went bad. Check to make sure they you are getting 12volts on the red wire, and a ground on the black wire when you activate the remote start. If your not sure, you can cut the bypass plug off, tie the red wire directly into the 12volt constant red wire off the module, and tie the black wire into the blue/black active out (-) in the car start harness. A third possibility is that the ring itself broke somewhere along the line so inspect that as well.

Mike