Printer Friendly Forum Posts

I have the CM3000M laram from compustar to install in my 2006 EVO IX MR. I see a 12V constant(red) and 12V Constant, prewired relay for 2nd IG, ACC or starter(red and white)- where do I hook it up? Starter Kill/anti-grind is connected to the relay from the harness(violet) ; the ignition has two wires? green and red where do you hook it up? parking light(GREEN / WHITE); accessory (white)?; starter (yellow)?; and ground(black). The relay with the starter kill has the starter wire yellow(to starter?) but it also has a yellow/black wire(?) thanks!

evois] wrote:

I have the CM3000M laram from compustar to install in my 2006 EVO IX MR. I see a 12V constant(red) and 12V Constant, prewired relay for 2nd IG, ACC or starter(red and white)- where do I hook it up? Starter Kill/anti-grind is connected to the relay from the harness(violet) ; the ignition has two wires? green and red where do you hook it up?

They hook up to the main harness.

evois] wrote:

parking light(GREEN / WHITE); accessory (white)?; starter (yellow)?; and ground(black). The relay with the starter kill has the starter wire yellow(to starter?) but it also has a yellow/black wire(?) thanks!

Parking light hook up to parking light.

Stater kill, yellow to key side, yellow black to motor side.

They hook up to the main harness.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

Okay, I just downloaded the CM3000 install guide with pin # from this site. just a few clarification before I proceed.

CN1:yellow black to key side, yellow to engine side(starter)-check

the green(pin 7 powers the ignition?) so it is a (+) output?

what happens to the red from pin 7?

the "green"/white is for positive parking light, what happens to the white wire?

CN2: why are there two wires for the pin 1 light output-because some have separate parking light circuits?

pin 2- is the one you use for the transponder module? the module has a 12V input is this where connect it or

brown trigger wire? PKU-MIT bypass kit?

thanks! sorry just a newbie in this installs but after finding the guide to install, just need to confirm and double check the wiring diagrams.

"2006 EVO IX MR" Never done one of these before, but I am sure I can walk you in the right direction.

CN1:yellow black to key side, yellow to engine side(starter)-check"

Let's refer to them as number on the relays so that you and I don't get confuse. You have to cut the starter wire on the vehicle in half. On the starter kill relay, pin 30 goes to motor side, 87a goes to key side, the (yellow/BLACK / YELLOW) we were talking about.

"the green(pin 7 powers the ignition?) so it is a (+) output?"

Yes, output, connect Green wire to the ignition wire on the vehicle.

"what happens to the red from pin 7?"

Red power the starter kill relays.

" the "green"/white is for positive parking light, what happens to the white wire?"

White is for accessory.

"CN2: why are there two wires for the pin 1 light output-because some have separate parking light circuits?"

On some vehicle it maybe easier to get to negative parking light wire instead of positive parking wire. It just an option to cut down on install time.

"pin 2- is the one you use for the transponder module? the module has a 12V input is this where connect it or
brown trigger wire?"

Don't know what brown trigger unless you have some disception of what it does. 12V in put source you get that at the ignition harness or directly at the battery.

"the 12 volt constant (+) is for the power source of the CPU and the ignition right? How about the 12V constant with the red wire and the white wire? "

The best way for you is getting right from the battery. Make sure to add a fuse.

" just disregard that? the starter kill/anti-grind is okay because it hooks up to the relay. But the ignition wire has a green wire and red wire- whcih goes to the key part, which to the engine of the? the accessory has only one wire? you said the yellow starter wire goes to the key side and the yellow and black to the engine part."

I think I answer that.

" where do I hook up the transponder bypass kit? do I need to make a separate relay for that and where will I connect it? thanks for the advice! :) "

Do you don need a transponder bypass? Can you tell me how you can tell if you need one?

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

I'll read more this manual and maybe more sensible questions from me. thanks by the way. it is a security with remote start on a manual transmission. interesting-I know for a newbie!

so, based from the instructions, all wiring will be like t-tap on the said wires and no wires are cut except for the starter wire?

evois] wrote:

so, based from the instructions, all wiring will be like t-tap on the said wires and no wires are cut except for the starter wire?

Almost, you may want to solder and tape instead of t-tap.

"no wires are cut except for the starter wire?"

Correct.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

thanks! I'm almost ready to install it.

where can you find the tach wire in the evo ix 2006? I tried the instrument cluster (YELLOW /GREEN) to no avail. the car has only one door trigger, do you have to connect the (+) or (-) or both on the same single door wire? the 2nd (+) input is only for a second ignition, accessory or starter, do you still have to power that up by connecting it to a constant 12V or can you just disregard that? Is there a problem with my remote? I tried to press I or II but there was no response from the car at all. I replaced the battery and the remote will power up for a few seconds and no response at all. It shows the clock and battery but nothing else. yes I used fresh batteries. help

"where can you find the tach wire in the evo ix 2006?"

What about at the Ignition coil?

"do you have to connect the (+) or (-) or both on the same single door wire?"

Either + OR -, but not both. Test and find out.

"2nd (+) input is only for a second ignition, accessory or starter, do you still have to power that up by connecting it to a constant 12V or can you just disregard that?"

You have to test your main ignition harness to see what you need. Best to power everything up like you would when you start the vehicle using the key. The relay will have the constant connected on the module, otherwise will you will need a constant 12V from main harness.

"Is there a problem with my remote? I tried to press I or II but there was no response from the car at all. I replaced the battery and the remote will power up for a few seconds and no response at all. It shows the clock and battery but nothing else. yes I used fresh batteries. help "

Remote has to be program. Otherwise, it wouldn't respond.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

thanks for the quick reply, I was able to tap the tach wire from the instrument cluster gauge and was recognized by the alarm unit. The install guide from compustar says to connect both (+) and (-) trigger correspondingly. short of a relay, I just used a 1 amp blocking diode and using the single door trigger, connected the diodes accordingly. My car has no second ignition/ accessory/ starter wire so I did not connect it to anything but just powered the 2nd(+) input from CN#3 because according to the manual it powers the "unit" ? alarm unit? I the compustar dealer and said that true I have to program the remote(whew!).

as for the arm and disarm output, do I have to use it? thanks!

"as for the arm and disarm output, do I have to use it? "

Only if you have a factory alarm. Otherwise, NO.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

Thanks, I'll find tomorrow when I try it out. so far the turbo timer is working already:)

You use either the (-) door trigger input, or the (+) door trigger input. Do NOT use both. I believe your car has a (-) input.

JWorm] wrote:

ou use either the (-) door trigger input, or the (+) door trigger input. Do NOT use both. I believe your car has a (-) input.

My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input. Is that wrong? as I read from a similar manual 2000AS, it says that I have to hook up both wires to determine the polarity of the door trigger(?)

I'm planning to do a clutch bypass also in this car. can I use a relay? 12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2 , clutch line input(trigger switch) to 30 and out wire to ground from 87, 87a will be the continuation of the clutch line from 30? it is hard to find this kind of relays though since most relays I see have both 87 and 87a connected.

"My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input. Is that wrong?"

Yes, if you have -, then use the negative tigger. As suggest by JWorm use either one, but not both.

A stardard 5 wire relay will do.

"12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2"

This part is fine.

For the clutch bypass wire you have to Meter the wire on the switch to find out if they are + or -.

87,30 connection will depend on the polarity of your clutch wire.

87a is not needed.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

thepencil wrote:

"My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input. Is that wrong?"

Yes, if you have -, then use the negative tigger. As suggest by JWorm use either one, but not both.

A stardard 5 wire relay will do.

"12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2"

This part is fine.

For the clutch bypass wire you have to Meter the wire on the switch to find out if they are + or -.

87,30 connection will depend on the polarity of your clutch wire.

87a is not needed.

So, since I hooked up both door trigger sensors, even with the blocking diode, I should take out the (+) trigger then? Is that the reason why the power lock doesn't work when I arm/disarm the remote?

As for the clutch bypass switch, I removed the switch plug but that simple procedure did nothing. That means I have to put a relay? there is no SPDT relay available locally, if there was nobody knows what it is. anyway, while out of town, I was able to purchase a bosch spdt relay from cartoys store. Is it definite that 12V constant power to 86? then 85 to the (-) status output of CN#2 pin#2?(same output of the transponder?). after searching the net, it says 30,87 connection for the clutch wire(series) and 87a to ground? so when the (-) output triggers, 30-87a results to grounding of the clutch wire? will that set-up short anything or mess up the alarm unit? does it matter if the clutch switch triggers (+) or (-)?

so far after the install here is what works: the car arms itself but the power door lock doesn't work. the hood sensor and the led are working normally as well as the tested tach wire showed normal connections. the turbo timer works but the remote start doesn't(after I unplugged the wire). I will try to disconnect the (+) door trigger wire and install the clutch switch and see what happens when I come back from out of town. thanks for all the help. It wasn't a bad install after all.

evois] wrote:

P>so far after the install here is what works: the car arms itself but the power door lock doesn't work. the hood sensor and the led are working normally as well as the tested tach wire showed normal connections. the turbo timer works but the remote start doesn't(after I unplugged the wire). I will try to disconnect the (+) door trigger wire and install the clutch switch and see what happens when I come back from out of town. thanks for all the help. It wasn't a bad install after all.

this is the original install I did. I have not connected the clutch bypass, not have disconnected the door trigger. I will find out when I come back.

"So, since I hooked up both door trigger sensors, even with the blocking diode, I should take out the (+) trigger then? Is that the reason why the power lock doesn't work when I arm/disarm the remote?"

From experience, older vehicle of this type I have work on is typically - trigger. Again, learning how to make the distingtion whether if is negative and positive using a mulitimeter and test light will probably eliminate any doubt. Further note, if the hood pin is grounded, truck pin is grounded, the locks will not function.

“As for the clutch bypass switch, I removed the switch plug but that simple procedure did nothing. “

Correct, because it needs a correct polarity in order for it to function. To do this test, apply pressure to the clutch pedal with engine running and not running.   Meter the wire when the pedal is applied. That’s what you will need to do to find out the poritiy of the wire in order to corretly setup the clutch bypass relay!

“Is it definite that 12V constant power to 86?”     YES

“then 85 to the (-) status output of CN#2 pin#2” YES

“(same output of the transponder?)”

YES, remember to put a DIODE to the stutus wire so that you isolate any feedback from the two thing you are triggering.

1 - the relay to bypass the clutch, and

2 – the transponder bypass.

“after searching the net, it says 30,87 connection for the clutch wire(series) and 87a to ground? so when the (-) output triggers, 30-87a results to grounding of the clutch wire? will that set-up short anything or mess up the alarm unit? does it matter if the clutch switch triggers (+) or (-)?”

Nothing will get mess up when you have a good understanding of how to test for the polarity of each wire you are about to connect.   Pin 30 and 87 will only be needed. 87a is unlikely, again you have to do the testing to find out how the clutch wire is connect on the vehicle. The clutch wires are usually negative or positive for imports.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

thanks for all the replies! it makes sense to me now about the clutch. I'll check the polarity if it is (+) when the clutch is not pressed and (-) when depressed or vice versa(is that correct?). as for the power door lock/unlock, I think it should be on the power lock and lock circuitry and not the door trigger switch. the car alarms if the door is opened and I check the hood and trunk triggers and it isn't grounded. I'll find out and do the finishing touches. as for the diodes, I know which one now to buy based on this website. I might install this alarm now in my other two cars!

you're right about the multimeters, I was able to get the tach wire from evo 9 instrument cluster and it worked :)

" I'll check the polarity if it is (+) when the clutch is not pressed and (-) when depressed or vice versa(is that correct?)."

Sounds like you have a negative clutch wire. Following my instruction, what I want you to do is measure it again to verified your finding. This part of measuring the correct polarity is kind of tricky to grasp, but I think you are getting the idea.

Here is what I like you to do. It's imparitive that you have the RED probe from mulitimeter touching the +12V battery post OR touching the +12V off the main ignition harness. Now using the Black probe touch the clutch wire. The reading should be zero. Now with the clutch depress, the reading is +12V. If that is your finding, you have a negative clutch wire. On your clutch bypass relay you have to make a gound connection on the relay to pin 30 and 87 to the clutch wire. Post your finding.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

Do not cut any wires that go to the clutch switch. Add a relay.

86 - constant
85 - (-) starter output of remote start (RED / black I think)
30 - one wire of clutch switch
87 - other wire of clutch switch
87a - not used

The relay joins the 2 wires at the clutch switch. Its the same thing that happens when you press the pedal all the way to the floor.

Again, NOTHING should be connected to the red door trigger (+) input.

I just checked the service manual of the evo and the clutch switch is off when it is not grounded. meaning, when you depress the clutch, on means that the switch actually connects it to ground. with the relay, I want the remote start to be able to start the car. if I use the key normally, I also want the car not to start unless I press the clutch(as a safety feature). So, is this correct? 86-12V constant

85-(-) output from remote start

30- the wire before it goes to the clutch switch(cut)

87-the other end of the wire going to the clutch switch

87a- connected to ground

30 and 87 are normally connected, so the clutch switch should function normally because there is continuity from 30-87. when the clutch is off(not depressed), the car will not start because there is no continuity in the clutch switch. when using the remote start, 86-85 is triggered hence, 30-87a will have direct continuity with ground completing the circuit and allowing you start the car. is this correct?

as for the door trigger, you guys are right, I'll just use the (-) trigger and disconnect the positive trigger since the alarm is not sensing it at all. even when armed, it doesn't sound the alarm even when I open the door. as for the power door lock, does the compustar CM3000M have this capability? it doesn't power lock itself, although it arms itself normally. just arrived from vacation and will catch up with this thread once everything is fully installed. thanks again!

Sounds like you need a ground signal to activate the clutch, therefore you don't need to cut your clutch wire.

The clutch relay installation should look something like this.

85- (-) output from remote start (status black wire), which is your ground out when running wire. This is the wire that provide a ground signal only when your are remote starting. Remember to add a diode on to this wire because you are also running a transponder.

30- this wire goes to the clutch switch (NO Cutting)

87- the other end of this wire will go to ground to provide the clutch switch with a ground signal when you activate the remote start.

87a- not require

86- +12volts constant

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

okay first the door trigger of the evo is (-), so after connecting to the (-) output of the alarm, it did not work as I want, meaning after opening the door the alarm doesn't sound at all. after trying to put diodes, etc. I ended up connecting the (-) door trigger to the (+) output of the alram and now it works great. as for the clutch relay switch, there are two clutch bypass switches:( I'll do it later

so far all the controls are working except for the remote start and the lock /unlock from the remote. the remote start is because I have not connected the clutch bypass. I just wanted to know, it says in CN#2 pin #2 which is a (-) status out wire and said to provide 200mA output. Is that okay to connect to 86 from the relay and 85 is from a 12V constant?(for the clutch). If I plan to connect a blocking diode(since it is connected to the transponder module, too), where will be the cathode(marking) side-towards the relay or towards the alarm unit? Should I connect a blocking diode to the transponder bypass unit also? Is the cathode(marking) towards the bypass unit or alarm unit? thanks for the input?

"so far all the controls are working except for the remote start and the lock /unlock from the remote. the remote start is because I have not connected the clutch bypass. I just wanted to know, it says in CN#2 pin #2 which is a (-) status out wire and said to provide 200mA output. Is that okay to connect to 86 from the relay and 85 is from a 12V constant?"

Yes. - status out wire will only activate during the remote start period.

"If I plan to connect a blocking diode(since it is connected to the transponder module, too), where will be the cathode(marking) side-towards the relay or towards the alarm unit? Should I connect a blocking diode to the transponder bypass unit also? Is the cathode(marking) towards the bypass unit or alarm unit? thanks for the input? "

You will need two. One for the transponder module and the other is for the clutch bypass. As to which side goes where, I don't know either. However, I do know where to direct you to find out. You've gone this far, I got to get you to do the rest of the reading.

How diodes works?

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

thanks for the reply. I have read the link even before you posted it several times and I agree with it. however, just out of curiosity, with my multimeter, I tried to check continuity with the ohmmeter(of the multimeter) and it is reversed in terms of polarity from diagram and from my multimeter. why is that? based on the diagram, I plan to put the 2 diodes with the cathode towards the alarm unit and the anode towards the bypass module and the other diode with the cathode towards the alarm module and the anode towards the 86 of the relay from the clutch bypass. Is that correct? any comments on the ohmmeter reading why it is reversed. does it mean that electricity travels from (-) towards (+)?

the alarm part is working great, it sets off the alarm as soon as I open the door, it triggers the 1st and 2nd stage shock sensor if I knock on the vehicle and also pages me if I use the RPS. Now tackling the remote start is something else. As for the power lock/unlock, I must have used a different wire(+) lock output(blue) PIN#4 instead of (-) lock output PIN#5(blue/black) since it has a (-) polarity. But the install manual says it also doubles as (-) for the (+) and vice versa.

Conventional flow 101

Only 2 diodes is require! 2 Stripe (cathode) side of the diode goes to the status wire. Output will go to clutch bypass and the other to the transponder.

"the alarm part is working great, it sets off the alarm as soon as I open the door, it triggers the 1st and 2nd stage shock sensor if I knock on the vehicle and also pages me if I use the RPS. Now tackling the remote start is something else. As for the power lock/unlock, I must have used a different wire(+) lock output(blue) PIN#4 instead of (-) lock output PIN#5(blue/black) since it has a (-) polarity. But the install manual says it also doubles as (-) for the (+) and vice versa."

Doorlock is negative, so you have to make the connection using the negative output of the doorlock wire from the alarm unit to the vehicle doorlock wire.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

Only 2 diodes is require! 2 Stripe (cathode) side of the diode goes to the status wire. Output will go to clutch bypass and the other to the transponder.

[B] that's what I'm planning to do! thanks![/B]

Doorlock is negative, so you have to make the connection using the negative output of the doorlock wire from the alarm unit to the vehicle doorlock wire.

[B] I'll change that too! thanks! {/B]

I was able to isolate the clutch wire by trying to start the vehicle and grounding either red or white wire of the clutch switch, it is the red switch! after getting the power lock properly connected the door automatically locks itself after I press the arm button and also when driving after I press the brake pedal, it automatically locks the door. however, it cannot unlock the door using the arm/disarm button. it makes a sound but there is no actual unlock trigger(that's okay I guess!).

After connecting the isolating diodes as suggested, striped side towards the status out of the alarm unit and unstriped end (1 each) towards 86 of the relay switch with 85 to a 12V source and the other unstriped end towards the transponder /bypass kit which is also powered by a 12V constant. If I try to autostart the compustar, the ignition turns on but the starter doesn't turn at all. all accessories is on, heater, radio, etc but the starter doesn't crank at all. when I press it again, it gives two flashes which is the "key on" fault. what's the problem? did I wire the status out wire incorrectly with the diodes?

"striped side towards the status out of the alarm unit and unstriped end (1 each) towards 86 of the relay switch with 85 to a 12V source and the other unstriped end towards the transponder /bypass kit which is also powered by a 12V constant. "

Correct and looks good here.

"did I wire the status out wire incorrectly with the diodes?"

NO, you did it correctly. You just miss the reading on the proceduce to putting the car in Rerservation Mode.
You have to get the unit into RESERVATION mode first in order to do a remote starte.

Read the Reservation mode procedure it will tell you how.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

I did the reservation mode, in fact I turned off the turbo timer mode just to make sure that I have the reservation mode. I tried starting the vehicle by RS while inside and I need to press the II key twice in order for the ignition to turn on. It turns on alright but it doesn't start the engine. The ignition will turn on for quite sometime before I press the II button again and it switches off. It doesn't trigger three flashes but two and then another two which indicates "key on" position. Did I wire the starter wire incorrectly? I know I double checked but it is all taped up and unless it is the problem I will untape it again. If in fact the transponder wiring are corrrect and the clutch are correct then it is in the starter wiring fault? (I checked that it is the red wire of the clutch switch because the car started right away after I grounded the red wire.

Tell me what is going on here with your vehicle.

Reservation mode?
Are you able to sucessfully get into reservation mode. Meaning when you release the foot pedal and apply the handbrake. Do you hear a click sound coming from the unit? When you release the handbrake do you hear the click? If you don't hear the click from the alarm unit, it means the car will not stay running when you remove the key from the key cylinder. Continue on, when you remove the key from the key cylinder will the car stay running? Open the door, then close the door, engine will now shut off or stays running?

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

with the engine running, I put it in e-brake and take out the keys, the engine still running. I open the door, the engine dies and close the door the door locks and arms itself. If I keep it on turbo timer, the engine runs depsite me closing the door but it arms itself anyway. when I press the II nothing happens, when I press II the second time, the ignition turns on and whatever accessories were on but will not start by itself. I press II the 3rd time, the engine shuts-off with light flashing 2x and I press II again with lights flashing 2x meaning "key-on" error? if I miss any of the steps, the light will flash 7x, meaning reservation mode was off. So, is it really the starter wire?

Try this first before looking into the starter wire.
I think you have the starter wire connected correctly. other wise you would not have been able to start you vehicle with the key.

Get the car into reservation mode.

Press your foot on the clutch pedel. On the remote, press the II button for 5 second (2 second on the manual, I just want to make sure you got this part) the remote starter/alarm will power up and crank.

If it crank, you have clutch bypass issue.

If it still doesn't crank. Now, recheck your starter wire.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. posted_image

CM3000M alarm