2000 Neon, Viper 5900 sst

I think you're refering to the ribbon harness. Don't cut this nor connect anything to it. All connections to the car are done from the relay pak heavy guage wires.

Your car has only one ignition, the blue, to which you connect the heavy guage pink.

Orange from relay pak goes to BLACK/ orange at ignition barrell.

It's not actually an ignition input but rather a crank wire input from the ignition switch.

Your starter wire is yellow. Cut it. Connect the heavy green to the key side and the heavy purple to the engine side.

Nothing.

It's used to activate the remote start by using a short pulse from a security or keyless module.

You won't be connecting this in your case.

I installed a few r/s before but never an entire system..so i am running into a little prob. So far I have connected all the wires for the satellite relay harness ( all the heavy guage wires for the remote start). But now its time for the alarm...I see there are 4 different door inputs? Door trigger input zone 3, multiplex unit zone 4, door trigger input zone 3, domelight supervision output , armed output. Those are all for the primary harness...do I need all those options if so I guess I would find those wires by the kick panel and I would test them by opening and closing the door?

Now for the auxilary output there is a factory alarm and disarm..since my factory alarm arms and disarm with lock and unllock there should be no use for this right?

And finally with the door lock harness, do I need to use a relay for this? Or do I just connect the wires to the unlock and lock? There seems to be 3 unlock wires do I need all 3?

okay so I am stuck with only a few more wires to go... I just discovered there is a second acc wire in my ignition harness, online reference says there is only one but there is another wire BLACK/ white..do i connect this wire as well to the same harness wire for acc1?

Now with the door trigger switch i tested the wire that it was suppost to be and I got a constant 6v when the door is opened and closed, what am I suppost to get? 

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner......too busy.

Don't connect the BLACK/ White second accessory. This only feeds the radio and wipers (not required for remote start)

For locks, don't use the two relay 5 wire reversal method you show above.

Look for a Light Green wire coming from the drivers door harness. Use the Factory ARM and Factory Disarm for lock/unlock. Relays are required for both lock and unlock.  If vehicle has factory alarm, use negative trigger thru a 2.7K ohm resistor for arm/lock, and negative thru a 7.5K ohm resistor for disarm/unlock, use double pulse for unlock. If there is no factory alarm then Lock is negative trigger thru a 1K ohm resistor, unlock is negative thru a 250 ohm resistor.

For the door pin input, use the Green zone 3 in the main harness. Use tan in the drivers kick for the drivers door and blue/orange in the passengers kick for the passengers door. Both wires are negative trigger and must be diode isolated.

For trunk pin use the Blue zone 4 input (negative) and connect to the tab/black at the trunk light.

For hood pin use the small gray hood shut down input. Install your own.

You don't connect the domelight supervision nor the armed out wires of the 5900.

thanks for the reply, let me make sure i got this right.. so I use a relay for the door locks so i solder the wiring coming OUT of the relay not before to a resistor then solder the other end of the resistor to the door unlock wire? And how would I use double pulse?

Now for the door pin I run a wire from the blue/orange  then one from the ran connect a resistor to each of the ends then connect the other end to the alarm input? I can use a 3 amp resistor right?

m2736185 wrote:

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For the door locks, there is no Neg Green lock unlock, i think the door locks=5 wire door lock

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I'm sorry to be a pain about this but I'm convinced you can do it multiplexed.

Do you have a doorlock switch on the driver's door? Does it lock and unlock all? Does the key in the driver's door lock/unlock all? Do you have an OEM alarm? Then it's a single wire multiplex and the green wire has to be there. It runs from the driver's door to a module in the center dash above the heating controls.

The pink/purple wire you cut is the "unlock" motor wire for three doors and will not control the driver's door. That's why I mentioned "black tracer" not purple. BTW, it also runs up to that module in the dash.

Yes, I believe you are right. The green wire I was testing out for the door harness wasnt the same as the one at the switch. The green wire at the switch is (-) it reads 7.39 V constant, with unlock it reads11.24V and Lock 11.86V. So i guess this is the wire I am looking for. I was unable to find resistors anywhere except radio shack but they didnt have the ones I need... so i ordered 2.7K Ohm 1/2W Carbon Film Resistor (Pack of 100)  & 7.5K Ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor (Pack of 100). These should do the job right? So i guess I just solder these to the end of the wire coming from 30 on the relay

The ribbon harness is all negative out except for the yellow which is positive ignition to the brain when you turn the key to ignition.

Did you program the tach?

Make sure brain sees hood as closed, brake not pressed and that there is a ground signal input on the BLACK/ white neutral safety input wire.

Use this procedure to program your 555C :

https://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/555C_Alternate%20procedure.pdf

This is because the Neon rerquires a final acc wire which isn't fed during remote start.

The blue wire of the 555C needs to see ground out during remote start.

The Neons have a RED / white second acc which needs to be triggered for the 555C (or any transponder module) to learn - this is the idea of using the oem key and tin foil. This RED / white is not required for remote start however.

Do you have two different keys? One key twice will not work.

Wait up to a minute while programming the 555C.

I'm just a little confused.

The blue of the 555c should be connected to a "ground when running" output of the remote starter. The relay of the 555c should only activate when remote started.

Let me explain how the 555c works which will help you understand what it's supposed to do.

The 555c is actually a pellet taken from a key. There is a winding around the pellet which shunts (blocks) the RF at all times except when the blue wire is activated at which point the relay opens the shunt winding allowing the RF of the pellet to send its signal to the car. It's that simple.

well prob solved....i thought you just had to set the jumpers to no tach i didnt know you also had to program it to voltage. well thats done now. Now 2 more things and i should be set. Right now I have the ground for the 555 module connected to my defroster output, but I want to connect it to my defroster so what am I going to use to ground it when the R/S engages?  And Second I have my lock and unlock connected to my (-) factory arm and dis arm which i dont think has an option for 2 negative pulses which is what I need to unlock...will i need to hook it up to the unlock harness?

There was a 4 pin connector (pink., purple, orange, blue) in the box which connects into the XCRS relay pak. The blue is the "ground out" wire required for the 555C.

Unless I'm mistaken, you've built a multiplexed system which has two relays and resistors for arm/lock and disarm/unlock.

If that's so, for locks, the 5900 can be programmed for double pulse unlock. Don't forget to also connect the GREEN/ black disarm of the 5900 to activate your unlock/disarm relay so it can automatically disarm before remote starting.