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2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85772
Printed Date: Novemberá26, 2022 at 3:09 AM


Topic: 2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips?

Posted By: buening
Subject: 2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips?
Date Posted: Novemberá17, 2006 at 2:13 PM

Hello and i just found this great site!!! Looks to be very informative and i have exhausted the search feature :D

So back on topic. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 supercab truck that i just purchased recently and am going to be doing a remote start and alarm install next Saturday. I just ordered a Scytek  Galaxy 5000 2-way system. Seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Didn't need the $500 AstroStart or Viper systems. If anyone on here has installed this particular system or a general one on my year truck, please let me know if there were any snags for you. I'd like to get everything in order before i start the install, rather than waiting till i tear everything apart and get stuck halfway there. If you have any tips or things that are not often included in the instructions, please let me know.  I've read not to use the plastic T's when splicing into the factory harness. What is the common procedure to do this? Do you cut the harness, slide shrink wrap over one end w/alarm wire, solder the three wires together, and then slide the shrink wrap over the connection and heat it? Or do you just use a razor blade to remove some of the insulation from the factory wire and solder the alarm wire to it, covering it in electrical tape? I know soldering is the way to go, i just want to get the proper procedure down.

Also, does anyone know if my domelight will still fade like factory? Will my headlights/parklights/domelight still come on when i exit the vehicle to walk up to my house or when i unlock the vehicle? That is a nice feature and i hope not to lose it. I've heard that you have to use relays to keep this feature working. If you have any links or info please let me know. Also, it seems that i mainly need to take off the steering column covers and the drivers side kick panel. Are there any other panels that will need to be removed?

Finally, does anyone have any pics of a popular location to mount the brain module/relays and the hood pin switch? Pics would be helpful, but if not then a location would be cool. I'm a little weary drilling holes for the hood pin switch, so i wanna get it right the first time ;)

Well thanks in advance for all the help and i hope to contribute to this forum in the future!



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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback



Replies:

Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá17, 2006 at 4:37 PM

First off you will not lose or change any of the factory features....the unit is dependant of that, not the other way around.

The main concern on the late model fords is the GEM module. If the system you are installing has a way to "ignore" the domelight delay simply use the  "domelight supervision" wire to tap the door triggers, otherwise you need to double diode isolate the doors which requires you to be on your back for a while. If you don't adhere to this expect false alarms.

Other then that it is not a difficult installation..as far as a hood pin many installers reccomend a tilt sensor but if you locate a good place to mount the hood switch I feel it is quite reliable.

I prefer to use a hunk of clay which will help me determine the height of the switch as well as location. You want to make sure the switch will not be installed along a "water trail" so I would use a pin switch bracket and use the hood bumpers as a reference point, see where it hits the hood visually and you will be fine. Any other questions just post.

Good Luck



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Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: Novemberá17, 2006 at 4:52 PM
Easy truck as far as everything goes, just get a good bypass module for the transponder in the key, I recomend an XK04 from bypasskits.com with pkford firmware installed in it. other than that, just solder and tape [3M super 33 ] is sufficient for connections. And test averything with a dmm, if ya run into issues, just yell, the guys on this site are real quick with answers, beats any tech support out there!

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá18, 2006 at 2:52 PM

Thanks for the help.

Master5, how do i know if my system has a way to "ignore" the domelight delay? Is there a certain wire to look for on the remote start system? From my model's install manual:

Pin 4 BLACK/ WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to the wire that activates the vehicleĺs dome light, usually the door pin switch wire. NOTE: The dome light output can usually connect to the same wire used for the door trigger input (see Green and Violet door trigger wires).

I was told by the guy i bought the system from that the factory settings like having the headlights/parklights/domelights stay on after turning the truck off can be made to still work like factory but would require using some relays. I haven't dug too deep into what he was talking about cause i haven't received shipment of the system yet. I've read about people using diodes but wasn't sure the purpose.  Also, i've read that the tilt sensor is used to set off the alarm if the vehicle tilts too far (like a pinball machine). So would this sensor also be used on the hood itself? I've read people using mercury switches but my support guy for the system said mercury switches are unreliable.

Hymer, so i take it that i can just strip some of the insulation back from the factory wire and just twist the added on wire to the bare factory wire and solder that connection? I've been told both ways from my initial post but i'm kinda weary cutting the factory wire. If that solder connection would fail, the factory wire would no longer be intact. The alarm/remote start system came with a bypass module that requires a key. I was told to cut off the metal portion of the key for insurance purposes. I'm not sure of the brand or type though. Thanks again for all of the help!!



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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá19, 2006 at 12:11 PM

Well depending on the system. With the systems I generally use (DEI) the door trigger INPUT wire can be connected to the domelight supervision wire of the vehicle, then be programmed to ignore the delay. See, what normally will happen on a vehicle like yours is when you close the door the domelight stays on for a length of time. Now if you connect the door trigger input wire of the system to the domelight of the vehicle what happens is the system thinks the door is still open. On the DEI sytems this gives a confimation chirp which doesn't effect the system per say...it still fully arms once the light goes out. But by programming it to ignore the delay all that really happens is a normal arm chirp and the system waits about a minute before it recognizes the door trigger. By that time the light is out and it normally arms and protects the entry points.It does not change anything about the way the vehicle works...this is done as a time saver since on the fords like yours the GEM module needs to be double diode isolated to avoid false alarms and those wires are a little difficult to access...but can be done if you choose so. I normally use the domelight wire and program to ignore the delay..just makes sense to me. But if you choose to go to the GEM module you do not worry about the domelight delay since these wires are before the delay circuit..basically right from the door switchs, just more of a pain to do it that way on most newer fords IMO.

As far as the domelight supervision OUTPUT wire of your system what that does is turn on the interior light upon disarming of the system,,,to me a waste since the light comes on when you open the door automatically.However some vehicles also turn the light on automatically upon unlock anyhow so this feature may work automatically with no additional wiring. I believe this feature is added as an option for "safety" but IMO if someone was hiding in the vehicle it would be strange that they broke in just to wait for the owner and the light coming on would do any good..well I thinks it's silly. If your that paraniod just keep an attack dog in the vehicle all night and carry a large polo mallet around.

"I was told by the guy i bought the system from that the factory settings like having the headlights/parklights/domelights stay on after turning the truck off can be made to still work like factory but would require using some relays."

This is where I think there is confusion. If your truck is designed from the factory to leave the lights on after the truck is off I don't see why this still won't happen by installing an aftermarket security. You will be tapping into certain wires in your vehicle but you won't be changing any of the normal factory functions..if anything you will be adding functions if you so choose, but I see no way that you should lose any existing functions. What may happen is the lights will turn off automatically once you arm the system since the doors will lock. If thats the case and you are concerned simply wait before you arm the system..the range of the remote should allow for this..or program the system to "passively" arm and lock..this way it waits for a length of time and arms/locks automatically..you will not need to press the remote until you disarm. I see no need for relays in this case.

I don't like tilt switches unless it is a sophisticated electronic type because a simple tilt or mercury switch has no way of knowing if the vehicle is on a hill so it either can false or not work when needed..it is a lazy and cheap way to protect anything IMO. Use a quality pinswitch and put a dab of grease on it every few months..if installed properly(away from water) I have found years of reliable service can be expected..some vehicles have a factory hoodpin as well and you can tie in to that in most cases. BTW I recently read that the US gov. is limiting the use of mercury so mercury tilts will be obsolte eventually.

Yes, you will strip back the insulation and solder your connections for reliability. If your connection goes bad it should not effect the vehicle because you are not cutting the wire...just tapping into it for the signal. However, the starter kill will require cutting the factory crank wire so be extra careful with that one or you might get stuck one day. What I do is after I solder my connections I insulate with quality electrical tape (3m super 33) and then put a zip tie around it so the tape will never come off and the connection has more integrity. And yes to the key..when using bypass modules that require part if the key you can cut the metal or what I do is take it to a grinder...not so much for insurance purposes per say but in the rare event a thief was to find the module at least they would not be able to start the vehicle with the key itself.

Hope I helped



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Posted By: 1lowgalant
Date Posted: Novemberá19, 2006 at 1:13 PM
yes, the mercury switch is no more. there is a new switch out that is almost just like the mercury switch, but instead uses a ball bearing in place of the mercury. everything else master5 stated is right on point. very easy install. don't rush it and you should be fine.

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Whatever you do, DO NOT let the white smoke leak out of the wires.....




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá19, 2006 at 9:42 PM
Thanks again for the tips and the help. I'm sure i'll be in touch once i begin the install. Hopefully setting an entire day aside should be enough time.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 11:51 AM

Hey 1low..wats up?

I have used those ball type tilt sensors before. The problem I have is the same as I stated (hills) but in addition they are even less reliable then the mercury.

What happens is after time the surface of the ball corrodes and will not make a reliable contact. But regardless..even though where I live is basically flat and at sea level, I still don't trust simple tilt sensors. You never know when the vehicle might be parked on an incline/decline or a steep driveway.

I don't know if these are still made but I have a few in my junk box. Alpine had this electronic tilt sensor (I believe retailed for around 100 bucks). Now it does use a ball so the reliabilty is questionable but the unit is well sealed. what it does is remember the angle the vehicle is parked electronically by the position of the ball on the contacts and triggers the alarm if that position is changed...great for towing/rim protection. I believe Ungo had or has a similar product as well but  I recall the older ones utilized mercury so I am not sure what is done now.

However these are not generally used for hood protection per say. I have faith in the good old pinswitch but as stated earlier installation and maintenance is the key for reliability..it is a shame really that most "installers" can not get a simple pinswitch to work properly because IMO there is nothing more reliable for protection of hood /trunk points. Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.



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Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 1:05 PM
master5 wrote:

Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.


Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.

Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 1:09 PM
master5 wrote:

Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.


Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.

Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 2:40 PM
master5 wrote:

Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.


Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.

Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 2:42 PM
master5 wrote:

Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.


Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.

Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 2:45 PM
master5 wrote:

Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.


Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.

Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 2:47 PM
Holy cow, something jacked up that post posted_image Anyone know how to delete multiple multiple posts? posted_image

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá20, 2006 at 6:24 PM

Someone will probably clean up the mutiple post in time so don't worry too much about it getting jacked.

Unfortunatly your truck does not have a factory hoodpin. And I don't think anyone is going to have a picture of a hoodpin install laying around..it's just not the type of thing most people would photograph. However if you need pics of sub's, speaker pods and neon lights I am sure plenty would post that. I will post a diagram however.

I will also give you some pointers to help as thats all I can really do for now. what you do is look at the small rubber hood bumpers located on each front corner. See where it hits the hood (there will be an indent as well as a mark from where it hits). This will give you an idea for the height and location(reference point). You want to use a bracket to mount it and bend it upwards in a "Z" shape to avoid water from getting on it. posted_image

As you are setting the height simply look at where it hits as you close the hood..if this is difficult as you are almost closed put your ear to the hood and you will hear the hood contacting the pin. Now once you feel you have a spot where it won't bend the pin.. slam the hood, then open it and check that all is well. If so arm the alarm..wait about 10 seconds, and open the hood. It the alarm works open and close the hood a few times and check again. Now if the pin is not making contact the alarm will audibly notify you with extra chirps when arming.

If this is the case hold the pin down with your finger and arm again. If it arms normally this means the hood is not making contact and you must raise or relocate the pinswitch. You can put a dap of clay on the pin to mark where it hits the hood for reference if need be.

Once you feel the pin is working well put a dab of white grease on the pin shaft (I said shaft..lol) and the bottom where it makes contact with the ground of the vehicle. Check a few more times and you are set. Every once in a while check everything to make sure it works and if it needs any further adjustment or grease. It is really not hard to do this if you do just as I suggested, and once again take your time because the install is only as good as the weakest link and you don't want a faulty pinswitch installation to mess things up.

Good Luck.



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Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá21, 2006 at 7:34 AM
Thanks for the tips. I did manage to get a picture from someone on an f150 forum. Gonna attach pics (hopefully they reference ok) and let me know if this is good/bad install. It isn't exactly anywhere near the hood latch.



posted_image

posted_image

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá21, 2006 at 6:26 PM

My only concern with that particular install is water can get to the pinswitch and eventually cause problems. You can already see the screws are rusting (can't be a good thing) and water marks on the bracket and pinswitch area. However note the use of split loom and zip ties ..that's the right way (professional)

You can use the same location but I would bend the bracket as I showed in the diagram and adjust the pinswich height accordingly. Now you don't need to bend it much at all...just enough so gravity won't allow water to contact the pin. I would also reccomend stainless screws because that rust will only spread over time..and I have seen it even cause the screws to disitigrate. Might not be a bad idea to apply grease to the screws as well as a rust preventative, or any kind of water resistant coating. Also note that the screw holes themselves will expose bare metal so take the steps to rustproof there as well for longevity.

Keep us posted how it turns out.



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Posted By: sarde1090
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 1:07 AM

here is a hood pin switch i found this guy at the www.fordf150.netposted_image

you have to login to see the whole artical





Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 2:37 AM

The link you posted just takes me to some kind of ford truck forum..which article do you want me to check out?



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Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 10:47 AM
The pic that sarde1090 is a much better place for a pin than the first photo. I too am concerned about the water damage. The best way to determine where to put a pin is by using some clay. Put it in the area you want, close the hood, and open it slowly. Then you'll see what the pin sees. In your case most of the work has already been done because of the picture basically telling what area the pin goes in.




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 11:06 AM
Wouldn't the pin be exposed to water in the pic Saarde posted? I have water trails on that plastic panel from rain running between the hood and the radiator support. I mounted mine like the pic i posted except i bent the piece of metal into a Z like shape so the pin is above the water trail. It can always be moved though. I liked it there because there was already a factory hole to mount my steel bracket. I'll try to get a pic in a day or two and get some feedback from you guys.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 11:52 AM
You'll get water anywhere in the front grill location, but the second picture is more protected from it underneith. The second picture is also more professional mounting wise. It's 6 of one, a half dozen of another, but I definitely prefer the second location to the first.




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 2:48 PM
Ok i have a dumb question, do these trucks not have a factory alarm? When i press the lock button twice, i hear the horn beep. There is also an LED in the dash from the factory and it blinks when the truck is not running. Reason i am asking this is because i was told i do not need to hook up the Factory Alarm Arm and Disarm output wires and i thought it did have a factory alarm.

I also need to wake up the GEM module cause my doors won't unlock with the new remote. I found the Ford GEM wake-up instructions but they are different for trucks with and without an alarm. For those familiar with F150 installs, you probably know what i'm talking about.

Also, i still need to hook up my Dome Light output wire. I was told to tap into the ORANGE / Green wire at the dimmer switch. Will i need a relay for this output wire (500mA from the module)? I personally don't think i would since it is only sending a signal and not actually powering the dome light, but am looking for a confirmation ;)

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 3:04 PM
It certainly sounds like you have a factory alarm. Did you try to start it after the horn beeps? make sure you know how to turn it off if it does have an alarm. Some alarms have built in relays for the lights, but NOT the dome light. Most units need a relay for the dome light. Your instructions will say more about this. You shouldn't have to 'wake-up' anything to get the locks to work.




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 7:13 PM

If your horn honks on second lock press of remote you have a factory security. If you would like to test it do this...

roll down drivers window....press lock twice on remote..wait about a minute...open the door by reaching thru the window and manually unlocking..the horn will honk..lights should flash..to disarm...press unlock or put the key in the door and turn to unlock it. That simple.

I list nothing about waking up the GEM on your particular truck regardless..but this is how you should do the door triggers. Instead of going to all the wires..use the domelight supervision wire of the truck and connect it to the positve door trigger input of the system..usually a violet wire. The trigger stays on for a while sometimes after the door is closed (delay) so if your system can be programmed to ignore the delay (all dei's can be as well)  it will save time and you won't have to diode everything. And correct..on this truck you can't tie the factory security to the aftermarket so either carry 2 remotes or forget the factory..its pretty useless IMO anyhow.

Heres the wiring for everything to do an alarm and remote start for your truck.   Good Luck

12volts  lt. GREEN/ purple (20A)   +   ignition harness 
Starter  RED / lt. blue   +   ignition harness        
Ignition  dk. blue/lt. green   +   ignition harness         
Accessory  BLACK/ lt. green   +   ignition harness         
Keysense  BLACK/ pink   +   ignition harness 
Power Lock  pink / YELLOW   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 9  
Power Unlock  pink/lt. green   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 1 
Parking Lights+  brown   +   switch or BCM, blue plug, pin 6 
Reverse Light  BLACK/ pink   +   DKP, gray plug, pin 13 
Door Trigger  BLACK/ yel (L), BLACK/ pink (R)   -   DKP, gray plug, pins 22, 23 
Notes: The wiring above is for vehicles without keyless entry. Vehicles with keyless entry,
 the door trigger wires are found at the BCM, green plug.
The LF door trigger is BLACK / YELLOW in pin 4.
The RF door trigger is BLACK/ pink in pin 5. The LR door trigger is BLACK/ lt. blue in pin 12.
The RR door trigger is BLACK/ white in pin 13. Use all wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision  BLACK/ lt. blue   +   DKP, gray plug, pin 6 
Trunk/Hatch Pin  N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm  N/A       
Factory Alarm Disarm  N/A       
Disarm No Unlock  N/A
       
Tachometer  NOT RED / lt. green or red   ac   any ignition coil or fuel injector      
Brake Wire  lt. green   +   brake pedal switch 
Parking Brake  lt. GREEN/ red   -   parking brake switch 
Horn Trigger  dk. blue   -   switch or BCM, blue plug, pin 12 
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is on the driver side rear cabin wall.
Memory Seat 1  BROWN / lt. green   -   memory seat switch on seat 
Memory Seat 2  BLACK/ orange   -   memory seat switch on seat    
 Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass  Required:
Yes Type:
SecuriLock
Part #: 1100F
Alternate Part1 #: 1100X
Alternate Part2 #: 556SW
Alternate Part3 #: 556UW
Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part5 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models. When using the 1100X, a software change to 1100FM is needed.
 Smart Starter Kill Relays: Relay Type:
Starter Relay Location:
Underdash, Passenger side fusebox, #1
Part #: 6401A
Notes: Cycle key slow during programming or customer over ride 



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Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá28, 2006 at 11:11 PM

A reference for the wake-up of the GEM module :   https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/20671_F-SERIES-LIGHT-DUTY_FORD%20GEM%20WAKE%20UP%20DIAGRAM.pdf

Directed also has a diagram similar to this but i only have a printout and can't find it online. I'll follow those steps to see if i have a factory alarm. I have everything wired up except for the door triggers and still can't get the doors to unlock even though i have the correct unlock wire. I think it has to do with the GEM module sleeping and i need to locate the correct Driver Door Ajar wire. I found one in the harness that runs up the kickpanel to the dash but it is not the correct wire from what i can tell. Is the door ajar wires hot when door is open and 0V when doors are closed? Or are they a grounding thing like the door locks?



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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 1:22 AM

Although it MIGHT be possible that the GEM needs a wake up.. I have no info stating that needs to be done on the f150 after 02-03. However, the way to check is simple...

The system should lock AND unlock regardless. Once you get the doorlocks working properly IF after a few minutes the unlock stops working..you would need to wake up the GEM. Do so as per the directions. The following link will take you to DEI's diagram to wake up GEM (although it only lists 02-03 for f 150.).it also tells you the colors..where to find the wires..and how to properly test for the door ajar wire.

https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1093.pdf

Ok...now if  you connected to the proper door unlock wire (Power Unlock  pink/lt. green   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 1 ) the doors should unlock when that wire gets a negative pulse. Even if the GEM needs a wake up..they should still unlock when you test the system..unless you lock and wait too long. If the doors do not unlock you must do the basic troubleshooting procedures.....

make sure you are on the right vehicle wire...make sure you are connected to the right alarm wire..make sure the connections are solid...and verify that the alarm brain is putting out a negative pulse when you press unlock on the remote...and if so is the - signal making it to the vehicle unlock wire. Use a meter... that test will take under a minute.

If you need to test for the door ajar wire (which I HIGHLY doubt) it should read negative when the door is closed, pulse to positive when the door is open..and return back to negative.

Good Luck



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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 1:39 AM

Also..this might work..I think I have done this to wake up GEM's before..all that needs to heppen is the door to open so this simple 1 relay circuit will "fake" the vehicle into thinking the door has opened..hence waking up the bcm. But make sure to check first that you need to wake up the BCM or you are wasting time.

posted_image



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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 1:44 AM

Holy cow..what happened?   anyhoo heres a link to the same diagram..I don't know whats up. also you might not have to use the relay..try it without it first if it needs GEM wake up. what you will do is instead of connecting the 2nd diode to 85 on the relay...try conecting the diode straight to the door trigger (wire that 87 was going to.)

154_bcm_wakeup.jpg



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Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 12:13 PM
Ok, so i followed the directions to test if the GEM module actually goes to sleep and apparently it does NOT. So i don't need to wake up the GEM module. I am still having problems with it unlocking the doors. Does anyone know of a way to test the output of the unlock wire coming from the Scytek module and if it has enough signal to trigger the unlock factory wire? I'm at a loss trying to figure this out. I know i've tapped the correct wire cause i grounded the connection and it unlocked the doors.

I've tried messing with the features in the programming of the module. There is a choice between single and double pulse, and there is a pulse length choice of 1 or 3 or 0.3 seconds. I've tried them all.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 1:17 PM
Gonna start a new thread on my lock issues.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá29, 2006 at 8:18 PM

Well the only things I can deduce from this is either you are using the wrong wire for door unlock...it is some kind of bizzare programming or operational issue (you need to really read through the manual a few times if so), or the doorlock output is defective (can happen) .

Chances are if the doorlock output of the brain is defective that you won't even be able to fix this with a relay..if the wire can not trigger the factory relay module..there is no reason it would be able to trigger a standard relay as well. We know you are on the correct wire of the vehicle since you state when you send a negative to it the doors unlock.

So we need to look into the system. If you are 1000% sure you have the right output wire of the brain..and a solid connection to the proper wire of the vehicle..try this... disconnect the unlock wire from the brain and using a meter take a reading when you press the unlock on the remote. either you are going to get a negative reading or not so you know where you stand after that.



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Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 7:22 AM
Now i can't get the damn thing to remote start. Lights/siren blinks four times (normal, confirmation) the gauges/dash warning lights turn on and then nothing. Doesn't turn over but everything shuts off. Should i check the PATS bypass loop? What does it sound like is happening?


As far as the unlock goes, i'm testing the wire unhooked from the factory harness and there is no signal coming from the brain. The Scytek tech is trying to get me to use the disarm wire to unlock the system. I'm tired of cutting here and there to temporarily get stuff to work. There's already too many open areas that have been E taped. I'm just hoping it is not installation error cause it isn't covered under warranty then :(

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 8:39 AM
sounds like a hood pin or the disable switch... what does 4 pk lite flashes mean.. Ifit's the pat system, the red light onthe dash will blink fast.. try putting your key in the ign and rs the truck if it starts then it's your pats setup...    Thedisarm wire will send e (-) down the line to unlock your doors..   is there a wire for your door lock setup that you mabey forgot to ground?.. if you hear the brain clicking when you press unlock, the relays in the brain are fine, they just need a ground input to them...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 8:58 AM
Just to let you and others know, i REALLY appreciate the help. It's starting to get frustrating but i'm keeping my patience (required with these, right? LOL). Well the siren/lights blink once when arming the system, blinks 3 times when disarming, and blinks 4 times when remote starting. This is confirmed in the manual and i guess is a way to distinguish what is happening when standing outside the car and no 2way remote. Wow i didn't think about putting the key in, DUH! Hey i guess that is why this forum is here :) Will the disarm wire work like the unlock wire at all times, i.e. when disarming the alarm? I'm tired of carrying around my factory remote also because i can't unlock the doors unless i use the key. I just mainly want to have it unlock the doors when i disarm the vehicle. It'd be nice to have it unlock the doors when i put it into park, but i doubt it'd do that with a disarm wire. From what i can tell from the diagram, there is only one ground wire and it's probably an 18ga wire and i had it on the same bolt as the factory dash harness ground and the unlocks didn't work. I was told to move it to another location cause sharing the same ground can cause problems, so i did and still nothing. I hear relays ticking when the headlights flash but can't hear much for the unlocking. I can't really see any special setting to completely disable the unlock feature. The lock and unlock shares the same connector (has their own separate from rest of harness) so it's weird that the lock wire works but the unlock will not. I tested the unlock output with a test light with the ground of the test light hooked to 12V and nothing happened, so i'm not getting any signal from the module.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 9:38 AM
Yeah, it sounds like your unlock relay is toast.. I looked at a manual for a 5100 I did see a deal for pass unlock wire in there, its a blue and white pin 7 in the 20 pin harness. Youll need a relay, but that should work as an unlock output for all doors might have to press the unlock button twice... I would do that before using the disarm.. disarm will unlock when you hit the rs automaticly. There really isnt much in the programing as far as lock/unlock features go.. It looks like the unit uses a single ground for all functions and you moved it.. So.... Try that blue and white.. (-) 500 ma

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 10:11 AM
Well Hymer it is definitely the PATS. The red LED blinks when the key is not in the ignition and a remote start is attempted. When i put the key in the ignition it will remote start. Damn, now i have to pull the lower cover off the column and see what happened. I hot-glue'd it in a few spot so it would stay. Guess i'll also check the transponder box and make sure it's connected right.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 10:19 AM
I take it you used a universal transponder and probably burried a key.. ya ned to wrap the loop about 5 times and just keep trying to rs the vehicle while ya have it apart, when it finally starts, then ya hotglue it or whatever...usually don't have to much trouble with those types... same goes if ya have one that programs with both keys...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 10:57 AM
Yeah it's the universal type with the ribbon around the key that i buried way up in the dash. What do you mean when you say "wrap the loop 5 times". There is a loop around the key and a loop around the ignition switch, but both are fixed single loops. The one with the key looks like IDE computer ribbon and is fixed to the board on both ends, so i just slid the key in the loop. The other end is just a ring that goes around the ignition, which is what i hot glue gunned to the column.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 12:28 PM
ahh... The ones I use you are able to wrap the loop around the ign barrel, make a coil and a better "antenna" for the signal from the key to the signal for the pats set up... You just have to play with it till it works...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: Scott35
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 3:52 PM
Wouldn't you be better off with a bypass that doesn't require a key?

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Tacomacrew




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 7:28 PM
I cut the steel part off the key for security purposes, but yeah the ones without a key are better (cheaper too for the price of these keys). But my system came as a kit and it had this transponder bypass, so i wasn't gonna blow another $30 or so on a different bypass.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: buening
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 7:28 PM
I cut the steel part off the key for security purposes, but yeah the ones without a key are better (cheaper too for the price of these keys). But my system came as a kit and it had this transponder bypass, so i wasn't gonna blow another $30 or so on a different bypass.

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2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Novemberá30, 2006 at 10:42 PM

I find on late model ford trucks that when using the "key" type bypasses the location of the antenna by the ingition switch is critical..to the point where it might work when testing..but if it moves even a tiny bit..it will not allow remote start.

When you find a position of the antenna that works..find a way to really secure it there well and test a few times before putting the shroud back on. Then test again a few times after the shroud is on and after you test drive it a while.



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Posted By: cpugh
Date Posted: Decemberá01, 2006 at 12:40 PM

I had/have the same problem with my 06 Ford Explorer door locks.  I just gave up and took the dang alarm/remote start off.  But I really want to hook it back up.  The doors would lock when I get out of the car but no unlock if I wait about 2 hours. It would disarm but not unlock.  I used diodes on everything but nothing has seemed to work.  My next step is to call the dealer and talk with person that installs the alarms on the trucks.  Hopefully they will talk.  LOL



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CP




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: Decemberá01, 2006 at 2:17 PM

cpugh...usually when that happens the "GEM" module needs whats called a "wake up", but the odd thing is i do not list your particular vehicle as using that. Make sure you have it wired as such and get back to me if you still have the problem....

Power Lock  gray / YELLOW   -   driver kick or SJB, conn. B, pin 27 

Power Unlock  PURPLE / gray   -   driver kick or SJB, conn. B, pin 26 

Notes: The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash.



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