1998 Cavalier, alarm/remote start

Is there a way to get to the Keysense wires with out takeing off steering wheel shroud(plastic thing)

I think i can get the Ign wires in a big loom under the dash but didn't know about the keysense wires.

Also well were still here,where is a good place to mount the brain,i know its a very open under there.

Also this car doesn't have power locks so im adding them

He wants truck pop,but do i need to go all to the trunk.would i find it like on the Keyless cars in a wire in the kickpanel.

Could some please draw me a realy as well,the alarm output is (-) and it says the trunk is (-)

Hi all i hope i word'ed in right

the car is a 1998 Cavailer

I need a diagram to wire up a (-) trunk pop,can't seem to find one at all

also do i need to go right to the trunk latch or can i get the wire in the kickpanel like on the keyless cars.

any help would be grat.

spookiestylez wrote:

---

Yeah, you should be able to get the wire you need in the kick panel.Also be sure to use a DMM to test all your wires

GL

sS

---

Don't i need to use pin 30 for the device as thats the comon pin,i see (12v) and Neg output and ground

Or do i use 87a for to activate the trunk wire

spookiestylez wrote:

---

Yeah, you should be able to get the wire you need in the kick panel.Also be sure to use a DMM to test all your wires

GL

sS

---

Do i use pin 87a to activate the trunk pop wire then

because i see 12+, neg out and ground

also isit pin 30 the common pin,woulded that go to the trunk wire

The key sence on this rig is in the black conector on the ign. harness.

Your trunk pop only comes on the cars with keyless entry (factory) it's found in the trunk. Behind carpet left sied of trunk. blk/wht POS(+)

So that you understand what pin does what. Here is an internal diagram.

Alright i was just going over all my wireing info and yes the factory trunk wire is (+) and the output from the RS is a (-).

So that diagram posted above will work just fine

KarTuneMan wrote:

---

The key sence on this rig is in the black conector on the ign. harness.

Your trunk pop only comes on the cars with keyless entry (factory) it's found in the trunk. Behind carpet left sied of trunk. blk/wht POS(+)

---

So i do have to remove the platic shield all around the steering wheel to get those wires

 No. there's an inch and a half gap between steering shroud and dash. Reach in with your finger. It's easier if you remove the 9/32 screws though.

This is the correct relay diagram for your setup.

BTW chances are 99 out of a hundred if the vehicle used a negative for trunk pop it would be before the factory relay and no additional relay world be required if the system has a negative output. If it needed a relay you would simple use the same diagram I posted but put 30 to ground.

Now if the RS system had a positive output for trunk pop it most likely would not need a relay to pop a positive trunk but you would need to check the particular system to make sure its output current is enough. Some systems have a built in relay for trunk pop and you can choose positive or negative without needing any external relays.

Hello all,well i've installed acuple passlock 2 DEI 555l units awhile ago and im having  a little problem with this one passlock 1.

First off i've done all the searches and all the links people give say you have to messure the R-code.But i could swear that the DEI 555L is self learning.

The wires i don't understand are

1,yellow R-code as to my question above^^^

2,Violet

I understand the Ign,red(12v),black and yellow, and the bulb check wire and black wire

But im haveing a hard time understanding what Violet does and do i have to messure the R code

Also is that the Ribbon they speak off,and thats the bulb check right(black wire)

Yes the 555L is self learning..that is what the "L" means.

I think you might be reading too much into it..the only wires that you need to use is 12, the blue wire goes to negative activate RS, and you connect the yellow and yellow black to the yellow you cut from the passlock, and the black goes to the black of the passlock.

you probably don't need to use the violet wire but if you post exactly what it says about this violet wire I will explain what it is for.

The directions on the 555L are confusing at first but on the second page of the wiring it should explain the exact colors for your particular vehicle, and which wires you need and don't need...I know you never need all of them on PK 1's.

Heres the book,still not to sure what the Violet goes too.It says i need it for passlock 1 thow

Sorry but your going to have to zoom in on the picture

ok..you connect it to the violet wire on the ribbon cable..thats the multi colored ribbon the plugs in the brain..then to a small modlue..then to the relay pack.  Just strip back the insulation and solder it to the violet on that cable..insulate and you are done.

This sends a negative to the 555L from the starter relay..I don't fully know why it needs this as the blue black is also negative status but I use these for the PK2 alot more so I am not that familiar.

But just do as it says and it should work fine.

Oh BTW..my reply was assuming you are installing a DEI R/S. If not you will use a relay to perform this function.

Wire as follows...

30 and 85 to ground

86 to the crank output wire of RS (12v+ during start only)

87 to the violet wire of the 555L

If the system you are installing has a negative output during crank wire (many do just for this purpose), then you can connect that directly to the violet of the 555L and no relay is required.

Hope I helped.

Hers all the Connects in the other plug,im not to sure on what you mean about the violet stil

but i know the ign 3 well running is the yellow wire as it gives a 4 sec pulse.Please tell me if i need to use a relay still

O the RS is the Autopage RS620

thanks for your help so far

On this connector I do not see a wire that will do the function that the violet wire on the 555L requires. If there are no other harnesses with your system that provide a NEGATIVE OUTPUT DURING CRANK you will need to wire the relay as I last posted.

I will go through what all the other wires are for on harness #H7 and what you don't need to use.

#1...this will prevent the remote start from engaging while the hood is open..a safety feature

#2...this is so after you remote start and enter the vehicle..you turn the key on..step on the brake and the RS shuts down..but the car stays running normal so you can drive off and when the key is turned off the car will shut down normally as well.

#3..this wire needs to be grounded for the remote start to operate. Your particular vehicle does not require a neutral safty switch hookup since the neutral safty on GM is located after the ignition harness. Normally on DEI I just ground that but on this system it mentions a toggle switch so it may have another function as well..read instructions

#4...This is not needed..but it gives the option to remote start or shut down with a momentary button if you desire.

#5...to the tach wire of the vehicle..some units can be programmed to work without it but IMO that is lazy..using it will give more reliable operation at any temperture or voltage condition within reason.

#6...this is only used if your vehicle requires a 3rd ignition to be activated for the vehicle to start..I highly doubt you will need that on a 98 cav.

#7..for domelight supervision/factory rearm..don't need it, it's stupid IMO

#8..for trunk pop (relay needed on GM) if your vehicle has an electric trunk release...optional use

#9..this sends a ground when armed..for a starter cutout or to activate LED scanner etc..optional use.

#10...you probably won't need this unless the sensor is false alarming during RS..this can be used to bypass it (check instructions)

master5 wrote:

---

On this connector I do not see a wire that will do the function that the violet wire on the 555L requires. If there are no other harnesses with your system that provide a NEGATIVE OUTPUT DURING CRANK you will need to wire the relay as I last posted.

I will go through what all the other wires are for on harness #H7 and what you don't need to use.

#1...this will prevent the remote start from engaging while the hood is open..a safety feature

#2...this is so after you remote start and enter the vehicle..you turn the key on..step on the brake and the RS shuts down..but the car stays running normal so you can drive off and when the key is turned off the car will shut down normally as well.

#3..this wire needs to be grounded for the remote start to operate. Your particular vehicle does not require a neutral safty switch hookup since the neutral safty on GM is located after the ignition harness. Normally on DEI I just ground that but on this system it mentions a toggle switch so it may have another function as well..read instructions

#4...This is not needed..but it gives the option to remote start or shut down with a momentary button if you desire.

#5...to the tach wire of the vehicle..some units can be programmed to work without it but IMO that is lazy..using it will give more reliable operation at any temperture or voltage condition within reason.

#6...this is only used if your vehicle requires a 3rd ignition to be activated for the vehicle to start..I highly doubt you will need that on a 98 cav.

#7..for domelight supervision/factory rearm..don't need it, it's stupid IMO

#8..for trunk pop (relay needed on GM) if your vehicle has an electric trunk release...optional use

#9..this sends a ground when armed..for a starter cutout or to activate LED scanner etc..optional use.

#10...you probably won't need this unless the sensor is false alarming during RS..this can be used to bypass it (check instructions)

---

Well thank you for the run down on this

But for this

#6...this is only used if your vehicle requires a 3rd ignition to be activated for the vehicle to start..I highly doubt you will need that on a 98 cav.

I do need it,it sends a 4 sec pulse to the bypass module before RS'ing

I do i little more research and found out i need to power that damn Violet wire or the RS won't go.I was told i need a relay and a Diode.

Now if that isit true then i'll follow your advice

and to make things even worse the damn customer back out for tommrow and wants it done Friday.(no i don't have my own shop)so don't worry LOL

but i do have my bronze and silver mecp thow,i still im amazed about alarms.

Ok  well it that is the case simply connect wire 6 to the violet of the 555L. I am not familiar at all with this system but I believe it will work because ignition wires need to be energized during crank as well and 4 seconds is plenty of time for start.

However...do you also know where to connect the blue/black wire from the 555L?

I think that one too only needs negative during crank but the directions are very vague...I think DEI does this on purpose because they want you to use thier products and the colors match up on those.

Well keep me posted..it's not a hard vehicle really but like I stated earlier I do not have alot of experience with passlock 1 and I do hear bad things about them.