Clifford RSX3.5 Alarm

At last fitted a Clifford RSX3.5 alarm into my car. It has taken me three days with no prio experience or a wiring diagram. However, it is going to take me longer:
I put the battery into the key fob.
Opened a window so that I didn't get stuck in my car.
Then I fitted all the fuses back into the alarm so power is flowing into the relay satellitte and the primary harness etc... but NOTHING!
I have pressed every button under the sun and moon and the fob shakes it makes beeping noises but that is about it - it seems to display an icon which means that a command is transmitteed to the car buta command page is not received.
I have opened doors I have tried the valet button.
NOTHING!
I have tested to see if power is going into the modules - yes!
NOTHING!

Help me techys, help me...


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to go or not to lar

did you meter all the wires. with no experince and 3 days to do that, before you really mess up your car i take it to a shop

What a bore. The car still works. It's just the alarm... Helpful replies please.

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to go or not to lar

Sorry missed the meter wires bit. I metered all the power wires where I connected and where the module fuses are the voltage seems to drop to the harness from 12 to 2/3. The wires to the relay appear to maintain 12v

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to go or not to lar

does any thing work on the alarm. make sure you have good ground

where the module fuses are the voltage seems to drop to the harness from 12 to 2/3.

what does that mean? you are getting 12v on one side of fuse but 2/3 on the other?

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

car?

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

thought about the ground so I rerouted to an established ground and nothing.

sorry, module 12v constant wire at fuse I put in where I connected to the 12v constant (car) reading is 12v.
Reading at the module on the same wire but above the factory installed fuse reads 2 volts

Car is a Nissan Largo and I have searched and searched for a wiring diagram with no joy from anywhere including 12volt.com and a 100+ views of my request for one.

Hope this is helpful

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to go or not to lar

We dont have the nissan largo in america/canada. That might the reason noone has the diagram.
For the alarm to work, all you need is good 12v and good ground with antenna plugged in. This should atleast get the brain to make clicking sound.
Check those 3 things.

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Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.

lets got to the battery so we can see what happens

you need to get that to be 12vots.
If you have ground, and hook up all 3 of the red wires to battery, the antenna is plugged in, unit should respond, you HAVE to have a power issue. Run all the power wires to the battery to check it out

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

I am in the UK, car is Japanese. I will plug all 3 wires into battery in the morning as it is late here and I can't see outside.
So you think that there is not enough power coming from the 12v constant I found at the ignition??

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to go or not to lar

also as you will all be asleep by then...
Should that solve the problem should the alram automatically function from the fob and the valet or do I have to programme it. The install manual just goes on about programming. It doesn't say now turn on...

Cheers for all your help

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to go or not to lar

remote comes preprogrsmmed

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

Even though it is the dead of night and freezing cold, I have been out to retest my 12V constant wires.
The one that is loosing power is the 12V constant to the Harness. It drops from 12v at the ignition 12v constant connection to .06v just before it reaches the harness after the factory installed fuse.

Tomorrow I will reroute this to the battery.

Why would there be such a great loss of power?

There are other wires also taking power from the ignition harness to power the relay would this be the reason?

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to go or not to lar

Sounds like there is a blown fuse to me, but i dont completely understand the problem

got it - the connections in the scotch clips where not sound.
So power is now going into the brain, a little red little lights up on the shock (movement) sensor and and NO MORE!

Key fob as before - command transmitted to vehicle command page not received.



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to go or not to lar

I have fitted a revenger siren to my alarm which is not functioning however that's another issue. I do remember something about the extra wiring and can't find the leaflet that came with the siren.

There are 3 wires:
black - earth
red - brain of alarm
and
another black which goes from the siren to the siren - should I ignore this? or cut it or what?

Cheers


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to go or not to lar

part 2 - valet on and off via program button (not on key fob) working Also, shutdown diagnostics procedure works - this showed six flashes on LED hood pin or break switch...

still nothing via the remote

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to go or not to lar

I realize the remotes come preprogrammed, but it couldn't hurt to try reprogramming it just to make sure.

Also, are you sure your antenna is plugged into the "brain"? I know I disconnected mine during my install and forgot to plug it back in. Wasted a half an hour trying to figure that one out...

Cutting the black loop makes the siren chirps 6 dB louder. That's not why it's not functionning. Try adding a 1 amp diode inline with the red wire.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

the attenna is plugged in.

will try reprogamm, but sure I have attempted -
open door
turn key to on
press and release program switch number of times required for channel then press and hold - i choose once so as to auto learn
LED flash, horn honk - NONE all connected but not working. LED does work when I perform shutdown diagnostics

Maybe it's th doors - I will check this again also

Any more helpo greatly appreciated.


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to go or not to lar

thanks - will have to get it working first in order to decide if I need it any louder

Cheers

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to go or not to lar

Have power.
Have control.
Alarm will arm and disarm via remote.
all doors activate alarm.
Sensor sensing and activates alarm.
hood pin activates alarm.

however,
- when arming or disarming the siren doesn't chirp...
- the doors don't lock...
- the remote start doesn't work...

Not doing badly - now 5 days with no diagrams and no previous experience - I do have you though, that helps!

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to go or not to lar

Okay whislt you were all snoozing I have been fiddling...
now down to two problemos:

Lcoks and remote start.

Locks:
- green wire connected to unlock car wire - shows 12v on neg. tester wire and flicks to 0v when unlocked returns to! 12v

- blue wire connected to lock car wire - as above but only when locked...

when I set alarm the doors do not lock???

How do you get the doors to lock when alarm is set?

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Remote Start

Controller initiates remote start, but engine does not start.

manual says that purple wire ((+) STARTER OUTP! UT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE) should have 12v running through it a few seconds after initiation, but does not it rests at 0v

When I start the car normally the wire does have 12V running through it.

I have checked power connections and fuses and they are fine. There is lots of clicking but no start.

Help!

By the way the siren is chirping happily now that it is grounded correctly.

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to go or not to lar

Help please...

Locks:

I have blown 3 fuses attempting to use relays to get my doors to lock on alarm set.

I definitly got the relays to click, but the doors had no effect upon them.

In the harness there are several wires, 12v, ground, and two wires which are read through the neg wire as 12v dropping one dropping on lock and the other on unlock.

I have used relays which switch from neg. to 12v and ther other way around and nothing.

Do you think I have the wrong wires????

Please give me a way forward.

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to go or not to lar