Printer Friendly Forum Posts - ’06 Accord won’t lock or start

Hoping for a little help here. Installing a remote start on an '06 Accord. Went to the door module for the arm/disarm. Did blow a fuse (thought I wrecked something) by accidentally grounding the wrong WHITE/ red wire for arm function. But, replace the fuse and everything worked fine last night. So then I connected to the other WHITE/ red that is called out in all wiring diagrams that I have seen. Have not yet connected the remote start yet, just have everything wired up. Used a DVOM etc.

So now, for some reason the car will not arm & lock with the factory remote. Also, the car turns over but won't start. Still need to check more fuses etc. but does anyone here have any ideas of what I can check?

I'd be concerned that I wrecked the MICU or something but like I said, everything seemed to work fine last night and I haven't even connected the remote start yet.

Thanks!

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continue checking all the fuses..don't forget the "mains" under the hood by the battery..the larger ones..one of these if blown will cause a few things not to work.

I see no reason that even if you messed up the door lock factory module it would allow the vehicle to crank but still not run..this means either bad ignition or fuel pump/injector most likely...cross your fingers that it is a fuse.

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Hey thanks for the quick reply. I went out & checked the fuses and all seem okay. Also tried locking with the door switch and it would not work. Could I have somehow damaged the switch module in the door?

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yes, unfortunatly it is possible..they are very delicate circuits..which is why you have to be extra careful..but you slipped up..it happens to us all one time or another.

Now if all the fuses are good the simplist thing to do is get ahold of another door module and plug it in..see if it works. However, if you don't have any connections at Honda parts or service they may not just give you one to try..and normally they won't return electronics.

If this is the case you might have a chance to warranty it but if they see any signs you were there...and they decide to be dicks etc..they may not warranty it..it's thier call. if you go this route try to hide and cover up anything you did and tell them it just stopped working for no reason..and no one touched the car..trust me on this one.

I also don't see how the door module would effect the vehicle from running..did you figure that out yet?/ maybe it's just out of gas.? sounds stupid but I find it's the simplest things that are often overlooked.

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if you check all fuses and they were good, take the car to the dealer, make sure you remove all iteasm you put in dotn tell them waht you did they may warranty the work, just maybe, play dumb :)

One other thing..you said you check all the fuses and they all seem ok? "seem" is not good enough...check every fuse..there will be at least one fuse panal in the car..maybe 2 or more..and at least one under the hood. when I say check them I mean with a meter..not by visual..you can not always tell a bad fuse by looking at it..and you need to check the owners manual to find out where all the fuse panals are. Believe me it's worth the effort because the other options could be expensive. If it ends up it is only a fuse and it goes to the dealer they may charge a fortune just to find the blown fuse..then labor to replace it...then like 20 bucks for the fuse..yes..they do this all the time.

Now if it is a fuse and you find it yourself it will cost almost nothing.

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master5 wrote:

One other thing..you said you check all the fuses and they all seem ok? "seem" is not good enough...check every fuse..there will be at least one fuse panal in the car..maybe 2 or more..and at least one under the hood. when I say check them I mean with a meter..not by visual..

Yeah, I did check them with a meter. Should have been more clear about that. I'll go through things again and see if I might have missed something.

Doesn't make sense to me that it won't start either. Not out of gas. Just seems strange that they would be completely seperate issues.

I appreciate the suggestions of hiding things & turning it in for warranty. I'll go ahead and take responsibility for what I've done. Anyway, it would be difficult to completely hide what I've done if they look into it.

Just to verify the wiring for arm/disarm, can anyone verify the exact terminal numbers at the connector on the module?

Thanks

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could blown the door module that also has the arm and dis arm.
did you hook up any bypass kits maybe that not conect rigth and not alow the car to start only crank

best I can do:

Factory Alarm Arm blue/white to WHITE/ red - driver door module in door
Factory Alarm Disarm BLACK/ red to white - driver door module in door

Power Lock pink/black - MICU, green plug, pin 25

Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.

Power Unlock pink/blue - MICU, green plug, pin 9

Notes: The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box.
The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box.

Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.

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swamprat323 wrote:

could blown the door module that also has the arm and dis arm.
did you hook up any bypass kits maybe that not conect rigth and not alow the car to start only crank

You know, you just helped me figure out why it isn't starting. Duh, I feel like a dope.

Was convinced that since I hadn't plugged anything in (except my anti-grind relay) that it should work as normal. Well, the bypass kit is wired, but not plugged in. The ECM ign. feed to the ign. switch is cut for the wiring to the bypass. Will not see any signal until I plug in (& program) the bypass.

Anyone have a thought as to if that will make a difference on the lock/arm issue?

Back to the garage to hook up the bypass.

Thanks Swamprat323!

Todd

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Ah..see you need to give ALL the info..I was under the impression that you never did anything with the remote start..ok..that explains the no run problem.

but it probably is not the lock problem since that works constant and you cut an ignition wire.

What I reccomend is to retrace everything you did..make sure nothing is cut or tapped into that is suspect..and double check if you missed any fuses or fuse panals.

If still no locks you can try to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect it..sometimes this will reset if it needs it or if theres a 'glitch"..worth a shot anyhow...we all hope you didn't toast the module so want you to exhaust every possibility before hitting the dealer..I hate the dealer...very much.

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Okay, well I had already disconnected the battery to try to reset things. Seems that it did some good as the lock function was working as soon as I reconnected the battery. So then I finished connecting up & programming the bypass & remote start. The car starts, runs and the remote start works properly (Is a V6, M6 and the software routine works properly to start only when it's left in neutral etc.). Only thing that I seemed to have wired wrong was the clutch bypass relay that I had to put in. I wasn't thinking, and triggered the relay with the start output. I didn't think about the fact that the wire also goes hot with starting via key, thereby defeating the clutch anytime you try to start it. Guess I could protect with a diode, but I think I'll just use a different trigger (like the neg. trigger for the bypass).

So ALMOST everything is working. Remaining issue - arm/lock from factory remote is still not working. It does lock from the remote start remote. Still could be that I fried something in the module. At least I can use the car now, just not as well protected due to the factory alarm not arming.

Thanks all for the help. Sometimes it just helps to get a few heads together. Especially when the guy doing it isn't thinking posted_image

Todd

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did you hook up the factory arm /disarm as well as lock/unlock? If so, did you use seperate arm/disarm off the remote start, or did you use just the lock wires. If you used just the lock/unlock wires, did you diode isolate the circuits? Also, did you use a meter to test the lock/unlock wires (I think you mentioned it, but not sure)? Last question which bypass module did you use?

Personally, I use the kits from either bypasskits.com or from Fortin - honda

Easier than trying to dig theough the wires and pull door panels... haven't fried a module in 5 years either...

Perhaps you can arm/disarm the factory security by connecting to the wires I posted. You can use the doorlock outputs of the RS system..put a diode on each wire with the stripe away from the door module. run a wire off the stripe side of each diode to the corresponding doorlock outputs of the RS unit but tap in..you still also want the wires to go to the doorlock wires of the car so they still work.

To check if it works leave a window rolled down..arm it and wait a few minutes. Reach in and open the door from the inside. The horn should honk. Now press unlock on the RS remote and if you are connected right the doors will unlock and the horn will stop honking.

But honestly the factory alarm is not much protection and you still have the key immobilizer and a better system so not really a big deal IMO. But if the locks work now your biggest headache is over.

Oh..I didn't know this was a stick car..are you using a unit designed for a stick? If not you realize the vehicle can start in gear and lurch forward..or drive off..causing catastrophic damage? Be careful.

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master5 wrote:

Oh..I didn't know this was a stick car..are you using a unit designed for a stick? If not you realize the vehicle can start in gear and lurch forward..or drive off..causing catastrophic damage? Be careful.

Yep, it's designed for it. As I mentioned in my previous post; the software routine works properly to insure that the car is in neutral. But thanks for your concern. Would not be smart to use a remote start for an automatic in a manual car.

I'll try some of your other ideas too. Thanks!

Todd

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Good I feel better. I would hate if something happened and I helped..lol

best of luck with it and glad at least most of the problems are solved.

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Well, I went back out to button things up and it wasn't until the last screw was back in and I gave it the final test that all at once the remote lock/arm started working again. Only thing that I did that may have been different was to lock the doors with the key and I notice the LED came on for the security. Tried the factory FOB and it worked. posted_image

Thanks again to everyone for the help.

Todd

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it kinda seems like you have no basic troubleshooting skills

To his defense hardly anyone who posts questions here does..But thats where we come in..to teach. What does bother me is I can tell some people are not being 100% honest with things like using a meter...and double checking thier connections and/or fuses..but hey..we all started somewhere.

I remember when I first started I was asked to install a pinswitch and I didn't know what it was. Yeah they laughed at me but it's not like you learn what a pinswitch is in high school...or it's something you hear about while hanging with your friends...someone with experience has to teach you.

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@snotdobbs -- I kinda think you have no basic tact skills. The guy admitted to having a problem that he "might" have caused by himself. He was willing to take responsibility for his actions -- which in my mind puts hims head and shoulders above many of the people I deal with on a regular day.

Put it this way. It took me almost a week and a half working on my alarm system / remote start before everything worked okay. Granted, the car was never not drivable but it just takes time to learn. My first install isn't the best work, but it's all safe and fused and works fine. Next time, I'll be done in half that time with a much neater / cleaner install. It just takes some learning.

To the Original Poster -- Glad to hear you have it all working! Enjoy that remote start. They are great as winter approaches!

Hey thanks mjwood0. I appreciate the contructive help &/or criticism that is available here. The non-constructive I just consider the source and move on.

For the record, this is not something that I do professionally (which I'm certain is evident from my questions). However, I've done quite a few for friends/family and have been able to make them all work. I happen to have good connection in my regular business to the electronic component industry. Things like relays, polyswitch devices etc. could be sent to people here that help me out constructively. Others of course might not get the freebies.

So, if any of the following people would like some relays for free, shoot me a PM with your address and you will receive some.

master5
mjwood0
Garth
swamprat323

Thanks again for taking time to help.

Todd

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You are very welcome 96hawkcnvt, only too glad to help and glad once again everything is working right.

I really appreciate the free relay offer but I also have a good friend that is a major supplier of relays and other stuff for the industry so I have more then I know what to do with. Give my share to someone who needs them more.

thanks

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master5 wrote:

You are very welcome 96hawkcnvt, only too glad to help and glad once again everything is working right.

I really appreciate the free relay offer but I also have a good friend that is a major supplier of relays and other stuff for the industry so I have more then I know what to do with. Give my share to someone who needs them more.

thanks

Will do!

Todd

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