Doors Don’t Unlock When Manually Locked

autstart Viper 160xv
car: Toyota Corolla '97

when doors locked with remote, evrything is OK, doors lock and unlock, autostarts

but, when doors are locked manually, via power lock switch on driver's door,
the remote control will NOT unlock the doors, no matter how many times, lock, unlock is pressed on remote.

would greatly appreciate any help.

for everyone having an intermitent problem...

i dont think its intermitent.
it's because you locked the vehicle manually, (not with remote)

check it out.

lock car by switch on door instead, and then try unlocking with remote

can someone please, please help ?

thanks a million

You need to use the wires that come from the key cylinder, not the rocker switch.

Use:
blue/black for lock
blue/red for unlock (GREEN / WHITE on models with factory alarm)
You can find them in the passenger kick panel.

You will meter those wires while turning the key in the passenger door lock cylinder.

On most toyotas they have the child safety feature from my experience find the unlock wire that need to get a double pulse and you wont have that problem

JWorm

you said:
"You will meter those wires while turning the key in the passenger door lock cylinder."

Why passenger door? Not driver's door?

Blue / YELLOW + White
Both wires are needed to unlock the doors. Use diode to isolate.

both wires needed?

you mean the wire from drivers door and passenger door?

both wires are located in driver's kickpanel. you must to use both isolated with two 1N4001 diode

why diodes?
i thought i just had to hook up to the cylinder wire on the drivers side and not the rocker switch.

your car have a child safety doorlock system and use 3 wires to lock/unlock doors:
1 for lock (-) BLUE/WHITE and
2 for unlock (-) BLUE / YELLOW + WHITE
all located in driver's kickpanel.
because you have just 1 wire comming from alarm to unlock doors you must to use 2 diodes to isolate the 2 unlock wires of car.

tcalin,

thanks, i will try

i did not know that this old Toyota Corolla was so complicated.

if i had this professionally installed , i dont think they would have bothered with diodes on doorlocks?

the install manual did not mention the need for diodes at all, i guess this is not a common thing?

There are 3 sets of lock/unlock wires in the car.
1. coming from the drivers door lock cylinder.
2. coming from the passenger door lock cylinder.
3. coming from the rocker switch on the door.

My method (#2) only requires you to connect to 2 wires...not 3 wires like method #1. My method also doesn't need diodes.

You can use either #1 or #2, but not #3.

JWorm is right.

You can use the method with the two wires and the two diodes, but why make more work for yourself?

You can use the Method 1 he lists, if the unit you've installed has an option for a double-pulse unlock output.

If you choose #2, those wires are also available under the driver's dash someplace, but it'll be difficult to test them without a helper....................... either run your lock/unlock wires over to the passenger kick panel and do your testing and connecting there.........

or if you have a helper to turn the passenger door key while you test, you could poke around under the driver's fuse box until you find the same-color wires, and test them.

it's a 160xv, toyota corolla 97'

i think the viper 160xv has a double pulse unlock.
so i would use this wire instead of the regular unlock hooked up to the driver cylinder lock wires?

would this then unlock drivers first only with one click and then unlock all doors with second click?

or would it just unlock all the time, no matter if i lock with remote or lock manually?

thanks guys