Viper 5900, 06 Explorer
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=86296
Printed Date: May 07, 2024 at 8:09 AM
Topic: Viper 5900, 06 Explorer
Posted By: ainami
Subject: Viper 5900, 06 Explorer
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 7:01 PM
Viper 5900sst
Explorer 06 I had my viper 5900 installed by alarm installer. They left many wires out and I am trying to connect them myself. I, myself, work with 24V AC everyday, installing relays for HVAC zonepanels. But I never installed a r/s for a car.
I was reading the install manual and it says that you could connect the tach wire (violet/white) to the tachometer or +12V. The easiest way is connect it to a +12V, unless someone can point to me where exactly to find the tachwire.
Can I connect this tach input wire directly to any +12V or do I have to use some device in between? Also, when I unlock/unlock the doors using the factory remote the dome light, foglight, park and sidemirriors light come on when unlocking. And these lights goes off when locking. How can I use the 5900 to do this. Can I use the green and blue lock/unlock wire to do this by tapping it to the factory system. If yes, I don't know yet where to tap it into. And how can change these lock and unlock ouputs to either - or + Other thing, the installer never gave me anything back like installguide, toggle switch, hood pinswitch e.o. What they gave me back is the user manual, which doesn't show you almost anything, and a little red harness with brown and ORANGE / balck wires. I'm wondering what this 2 wire harness is for. Is it for the toggle siwtch to disable the system temporary or is it for something else? See the pic below. 
Replies:
Posted By: daxton
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 7:09 PM
Harness H4
H4/1 - ORANGE / Black - Channel 6 Output - Provides (-)200mA output whenever the transmitter button(s) controlling Channel 6 is pressed. (connect to a relay only)
H4/2 - Brown - (-) 200mA Horn - provides (-) 200mA output to the horn when programmed (connect to a relay)
tack input wire is a violet/white wire in a 5pin harness off the unit... other color in this harness are BLACK/ white, brown, gray, blue/white
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 8:19 PM
Daxton, thanx for the qiuck response. Do you know if the tachwire (violet/white) connects directly to any +12V or the the tachometer?
Posted By: mauri197
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 10:02 PM
FORD, EXPLORER, 2006, Dome Supervision
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash.
The mirror puddle lamps are purple (+) in the driver kick or at the SJB, conn. A, pin 7. | | close |
Posted By: mauri197
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 10:05 PM
you would need to find that wire in youre truck in order to make youre domelights come on with the remote of youre viper the output on the viper is a black white wire in the primary harness you will also need a relay to convert the output from youre alarm witch is a - into a + output
Posted By: mauri197
Date Posted: November 27, 2006 at 10:25 PM
oh as far as tach wire is should already be connected if not you need to find that tach wire in youre truck ive installed alot of dei but i havent seen the manual to the 5900 to tell tell you that you can hook it up to 12 volts i know alot of systems if you hook tack wire to 12 volts most of them mess up
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 5:38 AM
Mauri197, thanks for the response. does the yellow/gray wire also shut the lights off. Because when I use the factory remote to lock the doors, it shuts the lights (dome, park, e.o) off. I still don't understand about the tach wire. And do you maybe know where to find the foglights wire. I found the one at the switch that needs to switch to the ground for the relay with the ignition on and the park relay activated. But I am looking for the wire that goes to the foglights itself. Thanks agian.
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 5:43 AM
I meant "parklights relay" not park relay. Thanks
Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 10:38 AM
The tach wire has but one function, to tell the remote start what your engine is doing. It monitors the engines AC, not DC. Chances are you'll need to run this wire to the engine compartment. Where you hook it up to all depends on which engine you happen to have. For example; on the Ford Duratec (DOHC) engine the best place is at one of the sparkplug coils. You can test this wire with a voltmeter and in your case it WON'T be the gray or the purple wire. You'll want to solder this wire too. I do not have a wiring diagram for a 06, but I do have one for a 03, which should be similar. If you tell me which engine you have I can post that section of the wiring diagram from the Ford service manual for you tomorrow. Regarding the lights, yes the remote start should control the lights coming on/off but you can always verify this by reading the remote starts owners manual.
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 6:16 PM
thanks guys. Mauri,
they didn't connect the tach wire input. The left it off.
I don't understand what you mean with "Not Gray or Puple". What wires of those and where are they located.
And also on the viper 5900 install manual, it says that you can program the tach input to either tach or +12V.
Does this mean that I can hook it to +12V DC. I know that from your many experience +12V does mess up. Angelars,
The install guide says that I can program the tach input to +12V also. Do the mean 12V DC.
My engine is a 6 cyl. 4.0L.
Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 6:34 PM
ainami wrote:
I don't understand what you mean with "Not Gray or Puple". What wires of those and where are they located.
Look under your hood. Go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and look at the wires. Any wire that is NOT gray or purple is good to use.
[quote]Does this mean that I can hook it to +12V DC. [/quote]
Most times this will mess up the way your remote start will run. Always use the tach wire instead, that's what it's for.
Go here and under 'Wiring Diagrams' look up your car. It will have more information for you there 
Posted By: StealthEs
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 7:20 PM
Dont hook up the tach wire to 12. What they mean by the 12volt is you can set it to do voltage sense rather than tach. In order to do this you just have to program the unit for voltage sense. Not the best thing to do., most will have starting problems in very cold weather.
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Cris
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 7:32 PM
Thanks guys, I won't connect the tach wire to 12V.
I will look for wire by the engine.
I will try to connect all this in the weekend. I think I have all the info to finish this, except for th foglights wire.
I found one at the lightswitch. But this work with the ignition and parklights. Would be nice if I can find the foglight wire that feeds the lights itself.
Posted By: angelars
Date Posted: November 28, 2006 at 10:26 PM
There's probably a relay going to the fog lights.
Posted By: mobilecustoms
Date Posted: November 29, 2006 at 11:16 AM
for tach look at the injector wires use one of the odd color ones. there are two wires one will be common in all injectors and one ont be use the one that is not the same. program the tach then.
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Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 29, 2006 at 3:36 PM
mobilecustom, I don't understand. Which wire should I use??
Posted By: mobilecustoms
Date Posted: November 29, 2006 at 4:02 PM
if you look at injector connector thewre are two wires. there should be like 6 connectors each of the six will have one color in common in all six. there will be another wire that has a different color. tap into one of those.
for example-- NOT THE REAL COLORS IN YOUR CAR- FOR EXAMPLE ONLY!!!
injector 1- red and yellow-- tap into yellow
injector 2- red and blue-- tap into blue
injector 3- red and green-- tap into green
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Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: November 29, 2006 at 5:29 PM
Thanks Mobilecusom, I'll try that in the weekend. Anyone with any tips are very welcom.
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: December 18, 2006 at 5:28 AM
Last night I r/s my car and my 5900 acted up. It wasprogrammed for tach and it always worked fine untill last night. The starter cranked for about 1.5 sec and then it stopped. Did that for I don't know how many times. I thought that the car was started, but when I went to the car it still tried to start the car for 2 more times. I don't know how many times it tried before that. It sounds like the car started and stopped and the starter kept grindind for 1 sec. Looks like the brain is prorammed for no tach/voltage check or voltage check only and the starter programmed for 1.5 sec. But it sounds like the engine ran and than stopped, so I gues it was programmed for voltage. But that means that it had programmed itself. That's weird. Anyone have idea what happened. Anyway, I disconnect the r/s system by unplugging the main fuse and will get back to it today after work. Is there a way to reset the brain. I want to reset the brain before reprogramming it all again. Oh, this is on a Explorer 06.
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: December 20, 2006 at 2:17 PM
Oh, BTW, even if you hadn't said that this is on a Explorer 06 I still would have guessed Ford. First of all, 5900 can't reprogram itself and secondly, if it fails to start on the first attempt then it will retry for up to three attempts total. The system has a self diagnosing feature which is explained near the back of the install manual. Let it try to start, don't intervene in any manner then use the self diagnosis to see why it failed. It'll probably be tach related. Aside from the fact that you said that it grinded for about a second, does your Ford have OEM anti-grind feature - test by holding the key to crank and listen if starter drags. If it doesn't drag than you have OEM anti-grind. Program 5900 for "Voltage Sense" + "Voltage Sense High" + "4 second crank". Only do this if it has OEM anti-grind! Keep us in the loop. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: December 20, 2006 at 6:28 PM
with that truck u HAVE to run ur power right off the battery. i did one a few weeks back...
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: December 20, 2006 at 7:32 PM
Big Dog,
I just checked if the car has oem anti-grind, yes it has.
I turn the key to start after the engine runs, and the starter didn't drag. What happened is that the illumination in my custer instrument and dash all went out when I turned the key. I don't know if that's normal. But the starter didn't grind. After that one night, I left the r/s disconnected untill the next evening and reprogrammed the system. Everything works good so for. I like the tach, because it stops the starter as soon as it detects tach from the ignition coil. So, I will leave it untill it acts up again. But why would you use voltage sense with factory oem anti-grind. And why 4 sec crank time. Doesn't that put wear on the starter? Wy did the starter grind if the car has oem anti-grind and the r/s was set for tach. It wasn't that cold either that night. About 45º. Also I did not know for how long the r/s tried to start the engine. It took me maybe about 3 min before I got to the car and then it tried for another 2 times. Sound very weird to me. Thanks for your reply. Splaudio,
yes they ran the power right off the battery. At least the did something right.
I don't know if you read all of this post.
But I had this installed.
Only thing I did myself was the tach wire, the hoodpin, wired the mud light (side mirror) and fog light to light when car is r/started
Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: December 21, 2006 at 3:22 PM
ok ur up and running now,good. i never checked for oem anti grind, never do. i didnt know that suv had it though...
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: December 26, 2006 at 6:27 PM
Allright, my tach never work well. It had been buggy since it was connected.
I used the white wire at the ignition coil. Worked fine for a couple of days and then it started to act up.
I have to tach learn the system like every two days. Then it won't recognize the tach again. And sometimes the starter grinds cuz it doesn't read any tach.
I think i will switch to voltage sense.
My question is. Can I leave the wire and use the white wire at the ignition coil. Or do I have to connect to a constant 12V.
I know that the tach at the ignition coil is AC and it reads about 3V.
But when I switch my meter to DC the same tach reads 14 Volts. So what current is the ignition coil and can I use that for voltage sensing. Thanks in advance
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: December 26, 2006 at 6:35 PM
if you have problem w/ finding or using tach-sense, then just use volt-sense and its corrective crank timing.
gl and post your result.
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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: ainami
Date Posted: December 26, 2006 at 6:57 PM
Profuse007, thanx for ur quick response.
The tach-wire is run and connected. But the r/s doesn't read the tach-sense that well.
I want to do voltage-sense. My question is:
Do I have to rewire the tachwire or can I leave it connected to the ignition coil? Thanx
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