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GM-SL for 2006 Express van?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=86500
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 3:24 PM


Topic: GM-SL for 2006 Express van?

Posted By: xalky
Subject: GM-SL for 2006 Express van?
Date Posted: December 01, 2006 at 3:47 PM

I'm new to the forum, so be patient with me.

I'm a little confused when trying to hook this module into the wiring harness. For starters, The GM-SL diagram shows 2 seperate (pink) (+) input igntion connections. One is on connector 1 and the other is on connector 2. Which one goes where?

Secondly, On the Express column wiring harness there are 3 Pink wires, one is a large 10Guage and then ther are 2 small pink wires which go to the same pin on the steering column connector. Do I trace it down from the ignition switch to find out which one I should connect to?

Third, Do I just T-connect to this pink wire or am I supposed to cut it and connect one end to ignition output and the other end to ignition input? I thought this thing was supposed to be easy to hook-up.

I'll be hooking up an AG1201 system that has alarm,remote entry and remote start, to this Bypass. I think I'll be fine once I get my head around the bypass situation.

I'm a hobbyist, I've installed a few alarms but never had to deal with a bypass. I wanna make sure I don't ruin a perfectly good 2006 Express van.

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 01, 2006 at 11:37 PM

I think The pink wire  on connector 2 is for cadillac only, can someone confirm this?

In reading the other posts regarding the Pink ignition wire, The way I understand it is that I have to make sure that I connect to the pink that comes off the ignition switch not neccesarily one of the pinks at the steering column connector. is that correct? Can someone also confirm that It's just a T connection, that all the connections are basically T connections, no cutting of wires?

I'dl ike to get it done tomorrow.

Thanks





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 10:03 AM
This is a very easy installation and the instructions are meant for someone with some knowledge of the 12 volt. What you have to do is meter the wires you want to connect to, to ensure that you are getting the right wire.

Connector 2 is not used in the Express Van ( it's only for PK3 bypasses ) and the PINK wire along with all the other wires that connect to an existing vehicle ignition wire needs to be tapped into... not cut. If the instructions tell you to cut a wire ( like on conenctor 2 ) then do so, otherwise it's all just tapped into.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 12:08 PM

Thank you so much. That was very helpful. I'll keep you guys updated on my progress. I might have more questions as I go along. Thanks again!





Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 8:59 PM

After a few challenges everything is hooked up and seems to be operating the way it's intended. I ended up using the GMSL white wire on connector 2(door trigger output) to send a signal to the alarm as posted by jeff of velocity motors below. It seems to be working, but I need to test all the doors to make sure it's working properly. Nice shortcut!! If after testing, I find that it's not proper I'll have to diode isolate all the door triggers, I hope thats not necessary.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73364&KW=GMSL+GM%2DSL

I couldn't find the tach wire on the PCM. After testing all the white wires and all the purple wires, I couldn't find the one with the variable AC output. Fortunately the starter module offered an alternative method of detecting engine run using the alternator wire or oil pressure sender wire. I used the alternator wire since it was easy to find and get at. Works fine. I coulda wrapped the wire around an injector wire or High voltage coil wire but I'm working on a van and all that stuff is way deep to get at. Even the PCM was a pita to get at.

Tomorrow I'm gonna have to silicone all the wires on the PCM that I had to probe or skin trying to find the tach wire.posted_image What a drag that was.

I also had a small problem with the remote start neutral safety. Couldn't figure out where to hook it up. I just grounded it and it worked. I poked around here afterwards and it looks like that's what everybody does. Good enough for me!

Thanks Velocity Motors. It may not seem like much tto you, but your help was exactly what I needed.

Thanks Again




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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 9:00 AM
No problemo. If the door trigger's do not work, then use the triggers found at the BCM and diode isolate them.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 3:33 PM
I tested everything out today, and  doors work fine the way I have it. The GMSL door trigger output is connected to the door trigger input on my alarm system. The GMSL must get a signal thru the purple data port wire and it interprets it and sends the door trigger signal out to the white wire. Pretty slick, it's a huge time saver.posted_image I reccomend this method for ease of installation. It probably works on most late model GMs that can utilize the GMSL dataport.




Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 3:41 PM
Either that or its getting a signal from the dome light supervising. Heck if I know how it works, but it works.





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