2005 Matrix, Prostart CT-5000 door locks

Hello All.

I have a Toyota Matrix 5sp and I recently installed a Pro-Start CT5060.

I have the option programmed for ignition lock. The problem I am going to describe pretty much only happens if I remote start the car. The door locks do operate properly with the prostart remote.

When I get in the car that's just been remote started, put the key in turn it to on, press the brake, the locks sometimes don't lock again as they're supposed to and if they do, according to the manual if a door is opened after the initial locking it's supposed to lock again after the brake is pressed. It never does this. What can be causing this? I already got another module with no change.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as ProStart has not gotten back to me. Thanks for all your help!!

Not really familiar with this unit, but did you hook up door trigger wire?  That would cause it not to relock after door has been opened.  As for only locking sometimes the first time, check your ground or length of door lock pulse. But if you're only experiencing problems while remote started, I would lean more toward a weak ground.  If you start it with the key, does it ALWAYS lock when you step on the brake, if so, probably ground.

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Keith

See I thought the weak ground too. I had an issue right after installing it where if I got out of the car and shocked it (it's really cold and dry here right now) the car would turn off before I had a chance to press the lock button for it to shut off and stay in ready mode. So I moved the ground more to the centre of the car were some of the OEM equipment was grounded. That took care of that problem. The pulse I am using for the door lock is 7/10 of a second. The other options are 1/10 that doesn't seem to work at all, 4 second which is way too long and then 7/10 lock and two 1/4 unlock. But seeing as though the problem is with the locking I assumed the pulse is long enough. The door pin wire goes to 0.132V when the door is opened. This always is enough to trigger the alarm if I open the door without first disarming. I really don't get what is causing this. I've diode isolated everything, there is a diode on the starter kill relay to prevent feedback and basically except for that, everything is working 100%.

If anyone else has any suggestions, they would greatly be appreciated as I just want to get this issue repaired. I am going to try this morning one more module just in case it's a bad batch because they're all made from the same date area!

Just for kicks, try sending your lock pulse through a relay.  Also, while you're at it, you could measure for resistance on the Prostart's lock wire while locking when the car is running under R/S.  Does it ever give you problems locking via the remote when you've remote started it?

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Keith

Yes it has.. If the locks are acting up, sometimes it will not lock OR unlock.. It's like the locking part of things is dead!

Also, today, 3 times that I tried to put it in ready mode, which was successful, but as soon as I got out of the car, the engine would stop and it would give me 2 flashes which according to the manual means that either the runtime ran out (set to 15 mins) or engine run cancelled. Is prostart crap or is there something that I am doing wrong?? I keep checking my wiring, I've pulse the lock and unlock from the wiring harness included with the prostart (of course with the connector disconnected from the unit) and it's worked. I just think if it's a feature of the system it should work and my wife wants the car always locked as our VW is.

Thanks for all of your suggestions thus far!

I just had a quick read of your manual.  Looks to me like 2 flashes is normal remote shutdown.  If you use lock to shut down, I'm betting you'll get 1 or 3 flashes.  If you use unlock to shut down, probably 2 or 4.  This is just going by the logic that the car flashes once for lock, twice for unlock, and also twice for a remote shutdown, which in effect you are doing after leaving the vehicle in ready mode. In my last post, I asked if it ever gives you problems locking when you've remote started it.  Replace the word "ever" with "only".  Meaning-Are the lock problems ONLY present during remote start?  I would still try using relays on your lock/unlock wires, this will get a good strong zero resistance ground to the lock/unlock wires on the vehicle.  Prostarts are, in my opinion a great unit, I've installed many without a hitch, and owned 2 without any problems.  The one I currently own (CT 3400) I am very impressed with it.

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Keith

Thanks again for your replies. So I did as you mentioned and put in relays. Here's what happened. The priority door lock improved in response. The first 2 tries of remote starting and trying the ignition lock worked flawlessly. Then I played around a bit using idle mode etc, it stopped working completely. Then I just started the car with just the key and still nothing worked with the door locks and the ignition unless I used the remote to lock/unlock the car. Went out again, they didn't work when starting the car with the key got back, played a bit with opening and closing the door and pressing brake, all was working again. Remote started, it all worked. Couldn't get it to fail again. I will try some more in the next little while. Do you think that my locks pulled too much current and fried the door lock part of the unit so much that it is intermittent?? Does one usually have to add relays on Toyota's for power locks??

I do really appreciate your assistance!

You asked "Does one usually have to add relays on Toyota's for power locks??".  No, not any car in particular needs this done, but it is usually a sure fire way to get a good ground pulse to the lock system on your car,  especially true on vehicles which require a specified amount of resistance on a lock or unlock wire.  This method ensures you start with zero resistance.  I hope it stays working for you.

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Keith

OK..   So it is still being intermittent.. However, now that the relay is in, I can hear it trying to lock every single time I press the brake after opening a door. SO, having said that, do you have any ideas? I now know it is always triggering the relay which is a good thing. Trouble is, now, its not always locking the door??

When this starts, both lock and unlock do not work? Is this a glitch in the car? Because I can hear the relays tapping away meaning to me, that its working on the module side of things. I am using the tap wires suggested to me by this website as well as the wiring that I got from ProStart.

Hello all..

I have a problem with the door locks on my 05 Toyota matrix. They use a negative pulse and when the vehicle is on, is when they fail to work with the module intermittantly. I am using relays to pulse the locks and when I ask the car to lock, I can hear the relay clicking and putting the lock wire to ground. Once this starts happening, both the unlock and lock will not work unless I drive for about 20 mins and then it starts to work again. I am using a prostart CT-5000 unit but as said above the unit is triggering the relays so I am wondering if there is something I can do to fix this. To me it seems like maybe the wires listed on this site might be wrong or does the Toyota locks go to sleep??

Please help!

Thanks!

How did you connect to the lock/unlock wires on the car?  Make sure they are soldered.  If you did solder them, try a heavier guage wire, or redo the connection.

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Keith

I did solder them. Everything is soldered. Now, with the relay attached, the wire from the module is going to the relay to power it (low current) and heavier guage wires are being used to lock the doors (16 Guage) and get ground. I moved the grounding point as well. NOw here is what is happening. Every single time I open the door, close it, press the brake, I hear the relay clicking quietly but the door wasn't always locking. So I know for a fact now that the module is doing it's job. However, I did notice that the relay I was using was quite a bit quieter than the unlock one. I could never really hear it engage to complete the circuit. So I replaced it, I can now hear it engage and disengage. There didn't seem to be a rhyme or reason for it not to work. But at this exact moment, it's working so I will test it today and see if it infact was the relay causing an issue.. Because, after adding the relay's it did get somewhat better.

Let's hope for the besT!!

Thanks again for your help.

Yeah well, it didn't work. Still the same thing.

At this point I really have no idea why it's not locking. And like I said in the past, When that stops working, so does the unlock and lock when you want to put it in idle mode. The most frustrating thing is I can definately hear the relays clicking so I know for sure that the module is doing its thing.

Do car door locks go into a sleep mode or something?

I took a look at the door switch on the actual door and looked at the wiring there. There is a blue/white wire that activates the locks at the switch. That wire went into the kick panel and I've gone onto that one. The door switch ALWAYS worked when the locking feature with the module didn't. SO, I am thinking that might make it work. You could also use the solid blue wire if you wanted all the doors to open on one key press but I didn't so I left that wire alone. Makes me wonder if the wires recommended are the right ones.

I won't say for sure that it's fixed because last time I said that it was and then the next time I used it it wasn't but hopefully that'll take care of it.