2002 Dodge Grand Caravan, remote start

I am about to start installing a Remote Start in this vehicle.   I have a Bulldog Security Deluxe 500 Remote Start Unit and a Bypasskit Model CHDL 1B-PK to tie into the ODB II Port and also it includes the Bypass built into this.

What I am having a problem figuring out are the following on the CHDL 1B-PK

1) Parking Light In + - Do I need this if I am hooking the wire from the Remote Start Directly to the wire for the Parking lights? Or is this easier to use?

2) Ground When Armed In (-) - When arming, door detection takes aprox 45 seconds- giving the BCM time to go to Sleep mode.

I can't find any wire to tie into this from my RS system.  I have a few Ground when Disarmed, but have not found one to ground when armed.  Any help would be greatly apreciated.

3) Starter In (+)- I am not sure what this wire should be connected to.  I don't have anything that refers to this as an input for this wire.

4) Also now for the Dumb question, I need to know what side of the car is the Left and which is the Right.  This way I can connect my Sliding doors correctly the first tiime.  I need to know how they say, left power sliding door, what would this mean, to me it would be from sitting in the car so this would be the passenger to me.  But I don't know how they come up with which is which.

5) Also on this Module, I have the Unlock wire and lock wire connected, where or do I need to hook up the wire from my Remote Start wire that states : Lt. GREEN/ Black wire H7/8 Step 2 Door Unlock/ factory Disarm/ Shock Sensor Bypass. I am not sure what this would hook up to, as I have the lock and unlock already covered to the bypasskit with the relay outputs from the Remote starter.

6) H7/10 Orange (Starter Disable Relay output) what would this wire hook up to?

7) H7/3 BROWN / Black Factory Rearm Output-  What wire would I hook this up to, or does it go directly to the car wiring? Just making sure it is not to be connected to the Bypasskit, as their directions are pretty bad.

I will be starting the install in about an hour.  Thanks for any help you can give on this, as It will take a few hours to get it all hooked up and ready to go, so any answer any time will help me.

Thanks,

Bryan

Ok,

I think I got it all the way it should be, but I have a question on the size of the Yellow wire that is the starter crank wire in the Ignition Switch harness, this wire seems very tiny, like 14 gauge, is this the correct wire for the Large wire from the Starter out on the Remote start to connect to?  This is the wire that it states for it to be connected to, but it seems small to the other cars that I have done in the past.  I just put this same starter on my Suburban and it had wires that were about the same size as the wires from the remote start, this is why I am questioning this.

I have tested this wire and it is the wire that gets voltage only when you turn the key to crank the engine, so it has to be the correct wire, I am just worried about the diamter of the wire.

Bryan

Just wanted to make sure, yes I did the relay on the Second Starter Wire through the 180 Ohm Resistor.  I was just making sure that was the correct Crank wiire, a of how thin it is compared to the others I have done in the past.

Thanks for all the help, thats the only wire I have left to hook up, other than the ODB II Connector.  So I am about ready to finish it up and test it in a few.

Thanks,

Bryan

Thanks for all the Replies.

I got the Starter Installed, but have some Issues.

I wired the Unlock and Lock wires from the Remote Start to the CHDL 1B-PK Bypasskit.  This was supposed to control the door lock/unlock through the ODBII Line.  From what I understood on this model.  My Door locks are not locking or unlocking though, when I click the Button to lock it arms the alarm, it says, and then unarms on Unlocking.

I have 6 wires coming out of my Remote Start because the relays are built in. Mine is the one that states Alert/Shelby units with onboard relays.  It has 6 wires coming out of it, I ran the Blue White Wire to the Blue Wire on the CHDL 1b Unit.  I then Ran the Green and White wire to the green wire on the CHDL 1b.  I then tied to blue / YELLOW and GREEN/ YELLOW together and put a connector on them to ground them.  I then mounted this directly to a bolt under the Dash. It states at Bypasskit.com that this model does not need the Resistors as they are built in, do I still need to use them or not? Here is the wiring diagram: https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_CARAVAN_CHRYSLER%20MINI%20VAN%2001%20-%20UP%20%201%20WIRE%20ALERT%20SHELBY%20UNITS.pdf

The Remote Start is trying to crank the van, but it is not starting, its like it stops trying before it starts up.  I have left it at .6 seconds for the time for the Starter to be engaged, I have not had time to play with this, as it was about 10pm last night before I got it all put back together so the wife could drive it.  Should this be the trick that I am missing or is it something to do with this wire on the CHDL 1b that shows Starter in + Purple wire on the bypasskit.  I did not hook this up, but Ran the relay with the Resistor and Diode as shown in this diagram: https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/17044_CARAVAN_CHRYSLER%20MINI%20VAN%20STARTER%202%20DIAGRAM.pdf

Also, when I put the Key in the Ignition, now My parking lights and dash lights blink once.  Then when I start the car, and then shut it down to remove the Key the parking lights and dash lights blink 2 x's.  What would cause this?  My Remote starter has a built in relay for the Parking lights.  It is giving it a Negative Output and it is then going through the 2000ohm resistor into the Parking light wire on the Parking light switch.

The Sliding doors are working Perfect on Channels 4 and 5 of my alarm, but the other items are giving me issues.

Any Help would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks,

Bryan

Just talked to support at Bypasskit.com, it seems like I don't need the Resistor/Relay on the wire for the starter 2 wire.  It seems they take care of this over the ODB II Port. Just connect the above mentioned Starter IN + wire to the actual Crank wire for the Remote Start, is what they told me.

On my door locks, I think that I forgot to hook up a wire on this Bypass module, to connect it to the Arm/Disarm Wire.  So I will try this when I get home.

Thanks,

Bryan

bah on the power wire

follow the directions for the bypasskit about the parking lights

the locks will be fixed for sure when you tag that arm/disarm (PURPLE / lightblue) wire with your bypasskit -  

if equipped, what are you using for your sentry key bypass?

splaudio wrote:

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that vans power wire can only hold 10amps first thing i would do is run a 8-10 gauge power wire for the starter. ur parking lights have to be wired - so u'll need a relay to flip the polarity...

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Thanks guys,

Velocity Motors.  I did find these power wires and this is what I used.  I tied into both the wires that had 12 volts on them, from the battery so that I was not putting to much drain on one of them.  My Remote Start has 2 seperate power wires to do this with, so this is why I did it this way.

I still have not had a chance to work on it again, I might give it a shot tonight, if not it may be Saturday before I get a shot at it again.

I will do as you guys have stated.  As to the Bypass Kit, I am using the one CHDL 1b -PK, that has the Bypass all built into it, so I Only have this module and the Remote Start.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Also does anyone have a clue what the setting should be for the starter to run on this exact car?  Its set by default to .6 seconds, but thats not long enough to crank it, the next is .8 then 1.0 I have not messed with this yet, but figured I would just try trial and error.  But if you guys have knowledge of it and can tell me what it should be set to.

I tied the Negative side of the Parking lights right into the Switch location, on the back of the switch.  This was pretty easy as the box popped right out.  I will need to double check this, as I did tape it back up very good so I will not beable to see the wire I tied into, I have a feeling that it might be the Head Lights instead of the parking light.

I will post back what I find, I am going to try to get into it tonight if I can.

Bryan

To me you have hooked the 2nd starter wire up incorrectly cause I have heard of the same problem when you go to remote start it and it just cranks over and doesn't start

has anyone else heard of this??

o5 GT,

I think you were correct.  I unhooked my Relay and resistors and Diodes and tied the crank wire into the starter in + purple wire on the CHDL 1b PK module.  It now will start, sometimes it takes 2 cranks for it to start up, but I think the Plugs need to be changed, so thats on my list for this weekend.

As to the Door Locks, I had the Pink and White wire hooked up, but it was tied into the Parking lights wire.  I am not sure how I screwed that up, other than it was right above the GREEN/ Purple wire on the Listed wires to tie into, and I tied it to the wrong one in the BCM connector.  I fixed this and got it to the right Purple and Green wire. 

By the Way, if you tie into the Purple and Green Wire on Connector 5, it will run your Windshield washer fluid sprayer, lol.

Ok, Now everything is working except for my Door Locks.  The Doors will lock and unlock fine.  I have the Wires from my Remote Start connected to the Correct Wires on the CHDL 1b PK module, also.  But when I press the Lock button on the remote, the doors unlock and vice versa.  So the wires in the CHDL 1b PK are wrong, I do Believe.  I found this out last night, after I got it all put back together.

I am about to call Bypasskit.com on this, but is there any downfall to changing my lock wire from the remote start to go to their Unlock wire and my RS Unlock wire to their Lock wire, this way my buttons will work correctly.  Currently when I lock the doors it unlocks them, but arms or shows the led blinking as the system is armed.  When I press the Unlock button it disarms and locks the doors.

I have a feeling that their resistor values in the CHDL 1B Module are wrong in the unit that I have, or just on the wrong wires, thats why it is working this way.

I did check and recheck all my wires and the rest is perfect now.

Bryan

Ok,

So Now I just checked with Bypasskit.com and the engineer told me that it should be tied into the PURPLE / Light blue wire in Pin 14 BCM Connector 3, the purple and green wire is for cars without the factory security.

So I will try this later and see what happens.

Bryan