Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 99 F150 Alarm, Remote Start, Locks

I'm attemping my first install of a remote starter/alarm on my 1999 F150 (5.4l) and I've run into a few issues. The remote starter I'm installing is the Audiovox Prestige APS996a. The first problem I've run into in finding the tachometer wire. There are several wiring charts that show the tachometer wire being pin 48 a WHITE/ pink wire on the PCM which is where I have the tach wire connected to now, however I have also read on here that it is a wire on the coils somewhere. The second thing that I'm confused about is feature of my remote starter to turn on the headlights when the system is disarmed. Can I just run the wire from the remote starter to the wire on the headlight switch that turns on the headlights or does a relay need to be used somehow for this feature to work? Thanks for the help!

Tach is at the AET test harness, pass side of the motor front, loom is marked and has grey tape on it. GREEN / WHITE or Pink/white

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

HEADLIGHTS	RED / yellow	At light switch harness	+
REVERSE LIGHTS	BLACK/ red	In driver's kickpanel	+

You could also trigger the reverse lights....

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Hey Hymer....you quoted the astrochart....like I do so often.... posted_image

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Ahhh, yes Astro Chart.. pretty decent database... what ones do you use btw....

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

Thanks for the help guys, I hooked up the tach wire and programmed the remote starter for the tach signal and it cranks over just fine, but won't start yet because I haven't installed the bypass unit yet. Should it start up though if there's a key in the ignition for it to get the PATS signal and when started from the remote though? Because I tried that and it didn't start it just cranked over. I still need to hook up the door locks, and take a look at the dome light and head light outputs. Are relays needed for either one of these or does the wire from the unit go directly to the dome light and headlight wires in the truck? And one last thing, I haven't installed the "Starter Inhibit" relay included with the unit yet, what is this and is it required for the installation? Thanks!

for prestige (audiovox) units, you must confirm for learned tach signal. do it and again.

for door triggers, must isolate using 4 diodes for two doors. two inline w/ the car's wires and for the input wires. search for ford false trigger or GEM module.

the starter inhibiter is not required for alarm and RS to work. read your manual for further explanation, or soemone here will CHIME IN.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

The tach can be taken off the negative side of any injector also.When I install remote starters I make sure it works properly without the bypass hooked up by leaving a key in the ignition tumbler and trying the remote start.If the vehicle starts and runs everything is good just the bypass has got to be hooked up.

Hey I've gotten most of the remote start in and it works just fine but I'm at the point now of putting in the bypass. I bought the DEI 555f and it has 2 wires, a blue and a red. One is for 12v for it and the other is for the remote start. I don't know where to connect these wires to though, any thoughts?

Also the remote start unit has 2 wires for a bypass, a red and black but i don't know how this connects to the 2 wires for the bypass itself

not sure about these wires but dont use this as im about to tell you another wire.

brian_mcenulty wrote:

Also the remote start unit has 2 wires for a bypass, a red and black but i don't know how this connects to the 2 wires for the bypass itself

from your previous post, you have blue wire and red wire. take blue wire (-) and connect it to 3rd ign from your main harness, the harness w/ bunch of wires (~20 wires). red wire to fused +12v.

for programming, please read your install manual couple of times if this is your first time, word by word. must need two master key.

555f pellet can be very sensitive during cold season for northerners. if you have trouble w/ using 555f or having trouble gettin two keys, use
PKF1

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

Thanks a lot! I'll do this right after work

I recently put in a set of aftermarket lock actuators after my stock ones died on me. They work ok for the most part, not as good as the stockers but they'll do. I wired them up with the same 2 wires that came off of my stock ones and connected them up to the 2 wires from the new ones. The problem is that they unlock and lock fine but if I manually press down the lock to lock it and I use the switch to unlock it it won't unlock, it just stays put. I have to lock it using the switch which locks the other door and then when I unlock it they both go up just fine. What did I do wrong to make it do this and is there any way to fix it? Thank you!

Aftermarket actuators on a factory keyless...? That could be a problem. Did you use 2 wire actuators, or 5?

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I didn't have factory keyless entry, at the time I put them in I did have an aftermarket keyless entry though. And they are 2 wire

Is there a way to wire the actuators with some relays to gain back the functionality of them and so I can also tie them into my remote start/keyless entry (Audiovox APS996a). My truck is a 1999 F150 by the way

yeah you can wire them w/ two relays, reverse polarity. check in BASICS>RELAYS section.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I took a look at that page and wired them up using the 5 wire Positive door lock setup. My stock wiring is 2 wires that go to the actuator, both are positive when switched on by the switch one for lock and the other for unlock. I tried that 5 wire setup with the 2 relays and the locks work but I still have the same issue where if I manually lock one of the doors I can't unlock it without first locking using the switch then I can unlock it. Can I use a different setup on that page to make it work? Thanks

Anyone have any suggestions?

I've been trying to figure out a way to wire up the lock/unlock feature of my remote starter (Audiovox APS996a) to the aftermarket actuators of my 1999 F150 without any success. I know that the stock setup for my truck is a 5 wire system. I changed my actuators because the stock ones died with aftermarket ones from www.partsexpress.com. The stock actuators had 2 wires coming from them, a lock and unlock wire which mated right up to the 2 wires of the aftermarket ones. Now with that said, how do I connect the 3 wires of my alarm into the door locks? Thanks

Hi You need to do a reverse polarity with 2 relais check how to do reverse polarity before trying any thing

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cocolaboy

According to my manual for the alarm the red and green wires provide a 12v pulsed signal and the RED / black is a pulsed ground for dual stage unlocking. When my lock/unlock switch is pressed in the truck I get a 12v signal sent to either the lock/unlock wire of the actuator. So I'm confused as to why the polarity needs to be changed for this to work somehow. Thanks for the help!

because your switch has 5 wire when you press one side the 12 volts goes to one side of the door lock motor and the other side stay at ground so the motor mouve one way and when you move the switch to the other side you switch the polarity inside the switch so the motor goes the other way so since you have to drive 2 motor with your audiovox system your system is not made to drive 4 to 8 amp that why you need to used 2 relais

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cocolaboy

The outputs on your alarm are just Ma outputs, not strong enough to run anything but relays. The wires going to your motors now are resting at ground and one wire needs to be interupted and a 12volt signal sent. Study the diagram. You will need to cut the pink/green and pink / YELLOW motor wires and wire them thru relays...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Don't use the factory wires... wire relays under the dash...and take the 2 wires for lock and unlock into the door, to the actuator....

My stock wiring is 2 wires that go to the actuator,

recently put in a set of aftermarket lock actuators after my stock ones died on me.

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Hey my alarm has been set off by the GEM module as it shuts down about 40 minutes after I arm the alarm. The door triggers get tripped at set it off. I found this out by searching on here and I tried one of the solutions that i found and wired up a relay to stop this (because the pulse of the GEM shutting down is less than what it takes to trip the relay). Well I wired it up as follows:
86 - door trigger wires from car
85 - constant +12v
87 - ground
30 - to door trigger input of remote start.
My door triggers won't go off now if I open up the door and I think the reason may be that they are negative door triggers and this setup might be incorrect for my setup. How can I wire up the relay for a negative door trigger? I'm doing it this way simply because it seems easier than to diode isolate the triggers. Thanks

30 should be grounded and 87 to alarm.

Thank you, I'll swap the two in the morning and see how it works. This site is great, I've learned quite a bit more about my truck and auto electronics in general. Thanks!

switching 87 and 30 will do nothing......what the suggestion is to do , is turn your NEG(-) door trigger into a POS(+). SOOOOOOO put 87 to 12volts NOT ground. And then find the POS(+) door trigger input on your alarm, connect this to pin 30.

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you need to use diodes to prevent back flow into your triggers input.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I have a 1999 F150. And is there someway to make the neg. door pin trigger work with the relay? I'd rather not have to dissassemble everything to get to the positive wire.

I don't understand what good switching it to positive would do. The way you show the relay wired should work fine. I take it you connected the BLACK / YELLOW and BLACK/ pink together using diodes to isolate them? If you just used the BLACK/ blue positive dome light wire for both doors you would have to deal with any of this. It would be just a simple single connection to the alarm.

I would suggest that first, but if you wanted to stay with the individual door triggers you need to cut the wires at the BCM and install diodes on the BCM side to prevent backfeed from it.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Well if I can use that setup just using the BLACK/ blue wire I'll just go ahead and do that. right now I have a wire coming from the BLACK/ pink wire on my passenger side to the relay I have at the driver's kick panel and connected to the BLACK / YELLOW. I'll give the BLACK/ blue a shot and see how that works

Connect the BLACK/ blue directly to the positive alarm trigger. If you have any dome light delay now on the truck you will need to program your alarm to compensate for it....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Well I finally connected my keyless entry part of my APS996a to my F150 and it seemed to work but only my driver's side door gets locked or unlocked. I have the 2 relays set up for the 5 wire setup on the driver's side with the appropriate wires from the alarm going to it. When I lock the doors using the remote the driver side will lock but not the passenger. And immediately after that if I try to unlock it neither will unlock. Last night it was working just fine and now it's not.