Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 Dodge Caravan alarm/remote start

I am doing a 2006 Dodge Caravan tomorrow. Got a few questions please..

1. In reviewing the wiring I have 3 different resistor values for the parking lights (5.6Kohm (installogy), 2.1Kohm (directechs), 2,000ohm (bulldog).. Does anyone know which is correct?

2. Power sliding door.. 1.5Kohm for passenger side and 2.7K ohm for driver's side. Is it possible to wire it to open both?

3. I'm assuming it's safe to remove the metal plate behind the driver's kick that has some type of airbag behind it?

4. Also, can anyone tell me the color code of the resistors that I will need to use for above applications? I have a bunch from the 451M door lock module pack.. Hopefully one of those is the correct one(s).

Thanks much everyone!

1. DEI has never let me down with their values.

2. Yes, you could use 2 separate relays triggered by the same output to open them.

3. Yes, but be extremely careful when working around the airbag.

4. You can find a resistor calculator here: Resistor Calculator

You could also do just the remote start off the new remote and leave the factory remote to control the sliders, locks, etc.

you dont need resistors for the parking lights if you go in the driver kick. its positive pulse there along with brake lights. WHITE/ brown for positive parking lights and WHITE/ tan for brake lights. much easier than wiring up negative parking lights with a resisor for parking lights.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

Thanks for the replies.. In regards to the second starter... I have to use a relay and a 180ohm resistor.. I don't have a 180ohm resistor.. Is there anything I can do to make the value of a resistor go down? I have the 451M resistor pack if that helps..

Thanks!

Would (2) 100 ohms, +/-5% resistors be OK for the 180ohm second starter?

You can not decrease the amount of a resistor, but you can add resistors to make up to a value. As in: solder a 100 and a 80 in series and you get 180 ohms.

And would a 5,360 ohm work for the 5.6K parking lights?

Do not depend on the variance. Go to radio shack and get some resistors.

see my previous post, you DONT RESISTORS FOR PARKING LIGHTS. maybe some people light doing things the hard way, but I look at it as why put a failable link in there when you dont have to. Do as you wish, just trying to help.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

green6767 wrote:

you dont need resistors for the parking lights if you go in the driver kick. its positive pulse there along with brake lights. WHITE/ brown for positive parking lights and WHITE/ tan for brake lights. much easier than wiring up negative parking lights with a resisor for parking lights.

The WHITE/ brown wire rests at 3.2 and goes to 2.3 when I turn the parking lights on.. I don't think that's the correct wire.. The only other wire down there that is WHITE/ brownish rests at 12v and doesn't react to the parking light switch.

I'm having troubles locating a valid tach wire.. I tried the blue/green at what I think is the coil but it doesn't seem to be working. It's the 3.3 liter. I don't see any blue/orange or blue/tan wires. Any suggestions?

Thanks much

Found the tach... Got a problem....

I can remote start fine.. The accessory powers up (I get radio / heat / etc).. When I put the key in and turn it to ON the accessory stuff all shuts off. I lose radio / heater / etc and I can't get them back on..

I try starting it with just a key and the accessory never powers up.. What the????

I just got done installing a Crimestopper RS999FM in a 2006 Dodge Caravan. I can remote start fine.. The accessory powers up (I get radio / heat / etc).. When I put the key in and turn it to ON and hit the brake the accessory stuff all shuts off. I lose radio / heater / etc and I can't get them back on..

I try starting it with just a key and the accessory never powers up.. Any ideas??? Thanks a lot.

Did you do any kind of stuff with resistors or relays or any of that?

All you need up there is constant, ignition, and accessory. Get rid of any connections to the PURPLE / brown resistance wire, and it'll work fine anyway.

Yea, I used a relay with resistor for the second starter... Wired it as follows:

85 ground while running from the remote starter
86 from starter wire off remote start
87 ground
30 to violet/brown (second starter) in ign harness (180ohm resistor in line).

Is that not correct?

Thanks for the help!!!

ok, how about this one. 2006 Caravan. got the remote start all in and everything works but it just starts and dies. Got the 180 ohm resistor in. I can put a key in the igniton and it doesn't make any difference.

Any help?

sport62 wrote:

ok, how about this one. 2006 Caravan. got the remote start all in and everything works but it just starts and dies. Got the 180 ohm resistor in. I can put a key in the igniton and it doesn't make any difference.

Any help?

Sounds like the tach.. Mine was doing the same thing using the "smart tachless".. I hooked up the tach and it worked gravy.. Did you hook up the tach wire? Well except for my problem above...

Really, I am using smart learn, it is tachless. I will try that now.

That's what it is I'm willing to bet..

You have the 3.3 liter? If so... Here is a picture of where it's at.. It's the blue/tan wire.

posted_image

There is no ACC wire in that caravan. Atleast in the one I just finished, Thanks by the way. All you need is the pink with white for ignition and the starter wire. As well as the PURPLE / brown for your negative 180 ohm start. When the car starts, the heater and radio automatically turn on.

I have been doing this for a living for 5 years and have never seen the problem that I encountered today. WIERD. The funny thing was, it worked for 2 days fine then all of the sudden it quit working. I don't know. Damn new cars anyway. I will take a corrola or sentra anyday over a new dodge.

Yea, I don't have a ACC wire hooked up.

What wire did you hook your PURPLE / brown (starter 2) up to with the resistor?

sport62 wrote:

I have been doing this for a living for 5 years and have never seen the problem that I encountered today. WIERD. The funny thing was, it worked for 2 days fine then all of the sudden it quit working. I don't know. Damn new cars anyway. I will take a corrola or sentra anyday over a new dodge.

So was it the tach? I've had about 5 come back for that. It worked fine when they left (sometimes for months) then they call and say it's not starting..

From now on I'm always hooking up the tach..

I just used the second starter wire through a relay and turned it to a full strength negative and had the resistor on the output (30).

Acc powers up through Ign.

But putting the key in and everything shutting down is odd. When you put the key in and everything powers down, and you restart the van does everything start bakc up fine?

Did you cut the PURPLE / brown wire??

azn_fcuk wrote:

Acc powers up through Ign.
But putting the key in and everything shutting down is odd. When you put the key in and everything powers down, and you restart the van does everything start bakc up fine?
Did you cut the PURPLE / brown wire??

Sorry I should have been more clear.. When I remote start everything works fine. Radio/heater/etc all come on and work.. I put the key in, turn it to on, everything still works.. It's not until I hit the brake and the remote start hands over the job to the van is when the accessory stops working.

When I start the car with the key it never works..

When I unplug the relay and start with the key it works fine so it's something with my relay wiring. I test all my relay wiring:

Pin 86 of relay is connected to brown wire of 6 pin (starter wire).. It gets 12V only on crank.

Pin 87 of relay is connected to ground and my meter beeps telling me it's a good ground.

Pin 85 of relay is connected to yellow/black of 11 pin remote starter (ground out while starting) and brown wire of bypass (CHDL6-PK2).

Pin 30 of relay is connected to violet/brown (starter 2) of van with 180ohm resistor in line ..

When I turn the key to the on position with the relay plugged in I hear a clicking noise that sounds like it's coming from under the hood.. The bypass also flashes somewhat eratically..

Any ideas? Thanks!

tbird2340 wrote:

green6767 wrote:

you dont need resistors for the parking lights if you go in the driver kick. its positive pulse there along with brake lights. WHITE/ brown for positive parking lights and WHITE/ tan for brake lights. much easier than wiring up negative parking lights with a resisor for parking lights.

The WHITE/ brown wire rests at 3.2 and goes to 2.3 when I turn the parking lights on.. I don't think that's the correct wire.. The only other wire down there that is WHITE/ brownish rests at 12v and doesn't react to the parking light switch.

you dont have the right WHITE/ brown then. I work at a Chrysler dealership and have done as many as 6 of these in a day.....trust me......its there. Driver kick panel. You have to cut two zip ties and some tape to get to the brake and parking light wires in driver kick. They are there, I'd put all the money I have in my pocket on it.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

I believe you.. I'm not really interested in the parking lights anymore.. More interested in figuring out my current problem.

you can just goto the fuse box in the engine compartment and grab the parklight relay, the only porblem is that the dash lights wont come on, just park lights.

I always do that for the rams

sounds like your relay is staying energized need to use a diode and isolate the relay.

Yup, that was the problem. Just finished putting it back together. Works like a charm with the diode..

For future reference and to make your job easier, look for a new bypass. There are a few out their now like the Idata mods that use one wire to the vehicle and then several to the brain and it will do your lock, unlock, arm, disarm, sliding door control, priority locks, second starter, tach and imobilizer. Its a magical little box that drops your total install time down to well under 2 hours for a decent installer.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Ravendarat wrote:

For future reference and to make your job easier, look for a new bypass. There are a few out their now like the Idata mods that use one wire to the vehicle and then several to the brain and it will do your lock, unlock, arm, disarm, sliding door control, priority locks, second starter, tach and imobilizer. Its a magical little box that drops your total install time down to well under 2 hours for a decent installer.

Sounds good to me!!! What one are you referring to? I actually meant to order the XK05 but got this other one instead.. Where do I get them? Thanks!