Viper 791xv, Viper 5900, Sebring

today my siren completely stopped working, it doesnt chrip when armed/disarmed or when the alarm is activated.. the doors still lock and unlock and my parking lights still flash, the remote also shows that the alarm is going off, but there isnt any sound..., what could have happened?

Is it possible it got wet?

Also, most alarms provide a positive output to the siren, check the ground...normally right at the siren.

the ground is fine, and yes it did rain last night... here's the thing, the installer installed the alarm facing up rather than down... and it rained last night so i went out today and turned it down and all this water came out of it... so after i faced it down, it didnt work... it makes a sound sometimes, but its really low and sounds weak.

so is this thing ruined or should i just let it dry out?

Take it back tell them they pooched your siren, I am sure they will replace it at no charge.

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Sounds like it. Like Twelvoltz said check for output from the alarm itself and double check the ground. I personally run the ground back inside to the main system ground. If these are good then your siren is cooked.

let it dry out for a day or 2 after 2 days it still dosent work take it back...

it is still making sound, it just sounds like a little chipmunk now rather than how it did sound... its nowhere near as loud either.

There are electronic circuits inside most alarm sirens and if they get wet and even if allowed to dry out can stop working properly. Let the company that installed it improperly (having it face upward) troubleshoot it and repair it. If it was facing up then this should be for free. I would also look at it before leaving and make sure it's how it should be. If it can't be mounted facing downward and in a hard to reach area from underneath the car then have them take the whole works out and find someone else that can do it right. For installer's there's nothing wrong with making custom brackets when you have to as long as you charge for it now anfd then. Most sirens also are on mounting brackets and make sure the siren is tight on the mount. It should not be real easy to pull it upward. If so anyone working under the hood could easily position it wrong and not set it back how it should be and then it would require replacing yet a third time.

Jim

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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street

on my remote if the car alarm is going off all i see is a little symbol, but i read its supposed to beep too.. is there a reason mine isnt beeping?

Check the owners manual under transmitter programming and male the Page Notification is set correctly.

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Steve G

it looks like it is, i have sleep mode off and its set to page me, but only the icon appears no beeps... it DOES beep when locking/unlocking/remote starting though..

for the viper systems i have a 791xv, and i was wondering if there is an LED out there made by DEI that is exactly the same size and what not only red, that will flash just as bright as the blue LED that came with the system... i prefer the red color... i found this link, but which of these red LED's would be as bright as the blue one? i bought a red one off ebay a little bit ago and it LOOKED the same, but didnt flash anywhere near as bright.

https://www.autotechs.com/cat25.htm

Did you measure the voltage across the LED for both when they were on? Don't know about your specific one, but maybe the blue one you have is a bare LED and the one you got from ebay has a built in resistor. That could be why there's so much difference in brightness.

Whats the difference between the 514N and the 514T? besides size... is one louder than the other? which one would be considered "better"?

how would i measure the voltage?

if i press and hold the lock button and enter panic mode, should the remote beep as it would if the alarm was set off? i can not get the remote to beep or do anything while the alarm is going off on the car

try replacing the remote, it's probably defective.

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Steve G

well im getting the 5900 put in on wednesday so i guess i'll see if that one does it.

im going into the shop to have my current 791xv swapped for the 5900 and as far as i know all they need to swap out is the brain, the antenna, and the remote. Is there anything else they are going to need to swap?

^^ I believe that is all you need.

May I ask how much you are getting the upgrade for? Also, if you are paying full price, I'd suggest you grab all the wires and what not associated with the 5900SST so that you can have a full 791XV system as all the wires are compatible.

514N

Smaller size with a big punch, this bad boy produces between 2 and 5db more output
than the conventional sirens. All six tones are programmable to tailor a particular sound.
A loop on the siren will enable either soft
chirping or loud chirping when arming or
disarming the alarm system

514T

 Six tone Revenger® Super Loud  Siren.

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dragon

128dB siren with six distinctive tones. Gives you the ability to customize your alarm by removing any of the six tones. DEI 514T

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dragon

so which one is better?

well right now i have the 791xv installed, if all they need to do is swap out the brain/antenna/remote, then im gonna take those 3 things after they are swapped and put them in the 791xv's box and resell it since it will be all there. So im getting the upgrade for free in that sense, but they are charging me 50 bucks to swap out those 3 things.

anyone know for sure if thats all i'll need for the swap?

^^ yes thats for sure. Only the remote, brain, antenna.

How much is it going to cost though?

im not sure what ur asking... its only costing 50 bucks to swap out the 791xv for the 5900. Also since the antenna needs to be swapped, will the antenna wire need to be changed as well?

i like the 514n smaller  and fits in tighter locations

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dragon

what all has to be done to enable the defroster output? i have pushed the lock/aux/remote start button to get it to turn on and i dont get any light flash or anything, what am i doing wrong?

50 bucks for the swap is dirt cheap.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

thats just what they are charging me to swap it out, i had to buy the 5900 unit.

For anyone who is wondering, the 791xv's wiring is EXACTLY the same they DO in fact only have to swap the brain/antenna/remote. The range is SOOO much better than the 791's too. The commands get back to the remote slower than they did on the 791, but that is probably because it has to travel a further distance. So anyone wanting to do this upgrade i'd say do it

not sure if i want to kill some dollars for a better range right now. alarm is just as good as the installer.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

well i originally paid 193.00 for my viper 791 unit, then i bought the 5900 for 230, and sold my 791 for 240 :) so all i really lost was the 50 dollars to swap them out. Very much so worth it in my opinion.

Put your voltmeter or DMM leads on each of the two LED wires that you connected to your alarm, and read the voltage while the LED is on. If it flashes too fast for the meter to get a stable reading, you could try using a diode and small cap for a sort of peak hold circuit. Doubt you'd need to do that though, since you're just looking for a rough estimate to see if it reads 12V or 2V, which should be easy to tell.

ok i got the 5900 put in, and the remote still does not make any noise if i set off panic, or if the impact sensor is triggered. What kind of noise is this thing supposed to make as the alarm is going off? and does anyone know why neither of my alarms have done it?

i dont have anything like that to test the voltage, does anyone know what the voltage is for the "bright blue led" that comes with the viper 791xv/viper 5900?

yes all of the previous years units came with a bright red LED.... most install shops have tons....    i just threw out about 200 of them i didnt need anymore.....

it's the same red LED that comes with all the 562 & 563 series units.... once we install these R/S only units we unplug the programming switch and LED and throw them in a box in the back of the shop... about twice a year i dump the box.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

i got a red led from a previous model and it was no where near as bright as the blue one... is there a specific one u are referring to? the red one i got looked exactly like the blue one only red.

well if ur still looking here it sounds like it is in timer mode... so look in ur manual for how to stop that from happening..

jayno20 wrote:

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ok i got the 5900 put in, and the remote still does not make any noise if i set off panic, or if the impact sensor is triggered. What kind of noise is this thing supposed to make as the alarm is going off? and does anyone know why neither of my alarms have done it?

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this is the question i really need help with, im stumped as to why my remote doesnt beep like i THINK it should. If i push panic should it beep as the alarm is sounding?

For the past 2 times i've gone outside after i have remote started my car i find my windows are vented about an inch. I know i didnt push the buttons that make the windows go down (AUX + UNLOCK) but i was messing with it both nights prior. I am almost convinced it is doing it when i remote start though because it rained all night last night and there wasnt any water in my car when i found the windows were down this morning after a remote start. Anyone have any idea why its doing this?

Is it a Volks or Honda or Nissan? Could be the disarm pulse to the remote starter is too long. Shorten it to less than 1/4 second.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

no its a Chrysler...

Don't keep us in the dark. Chrysler . . . model/year

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

lol its a chrysler sebring LXI coupe. Last night i was messing with the aux button then locking/unlocking to get it to lock/unlock silently, so i might have held the aux button while pressing the unlock button (which is the combo to vent the windows) so unless there's something else that could possibly be causing this i THINK i might be ok... any other ideas of what could cause this just incase?

anyone?

ok they are still doing it. its doing it every time i arm the system, as soon as i press lock the windows vent.. then if i unlock it and lock it again they go up and then vent again right away. Anyone know why its doing this?

anyone? im not sure it doesnt seem to do it all the time, like right now its fine, but it did it constantly 4 or 5 times earlier.

I have a viper 5900 in a 2000 Chrysler sebring LXI coupe, and there is nothing to tell if the trunk is open or not (like there is a pin for the hood) so i was wondering if i can take the blue trunk wire (wire 7 on the 12 pin harness) and somehow tie it into the light that is in my trunk in order for it to show when its opened on the remote and for the alarm to sound if its opened while armed. If anyone has any info on how i could do that I'd appreciate it.

Find the side of the light that triggers POS(+)....tie your hood pin into this using a relay to convert polarity.

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KarTuneMan wrote:

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Find the side of the light that triggers POS(+)....tie your hood pin into this using a relay to convert polarity.

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is that the only way? i was under the impression i could just tie the trunk wire into either the negative or positive of the wire for the light in the trunk?



and one other thing when i arm my car the windows are still venting, it seems to do it most when the car is cold. Does anyone know why it might be doing this?

sometimes it will put the windows the whole way down too.. could it do this if the module got wet? cause it doesnt seem to do it all the time and if it had something to do with the wiring wouldn't it do it repeatedly?

I guess my installer locked it the other day i was there, i cant tell for sure tho, i cant seem to get into the learn routine menu's, but instead of it going there, the siren wails once then the LED comes on constant like i just entered valet mode. Is it supposed to do that instead of taking me into the learn routine if its been locked?

Hey guys, my installer didnt hook up starterkill/antigrind, I am thinking about taking it back to them to get them to hook that up, is there usually a lot of problems with this? they told me originally that there is.. also what all is needed to hook it up and how long should it take?

it's a good feature for long-term use. i'd recommend that feature being installed, very simple procedure. takes no more than a min.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

ok what all do they need? is the antigrind wire the same wire as used for starter kill? in other words is it just one wire they have to hook up?

In my car with the viper 5900 i have it set so the locks lock after the ignition is turned on and unlock when turned off... is there anyway to make them lock when the shifter is taken out of park and unlock when it is put back into park?

You would first need to figure out if the car has any sort of electrical switch on the 'park' position of the shifter.  If it does, you can run the ignition wire from the alarm to that switch, instead of to the ignition of the car.

This could have all sorts of side effects, but it will be the only way to do what you want to do.

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Kevin Pierson

I wanted to get a module for my sunroof, but i need info on how to hook it up, and if its possible without messing up my sunroof motor... would it be better to go with a 529T or a 530? and what color are the wires i'd need to tap in to?

I found info on a 01? I don't know if it will help, but.

open is white at the switch

close is light blue

tilt is purple  Thes ar ALL NEG(-) pulses. does not say latched or not.

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so is it ok to put the 529T on the sunroof? i dont want to mess anything up

anyone have anymore information on this? how many people have this on their sunroofs with the kind that tilt then slide open..?

ok i just bought the 529T module today... anybody have any tips on this? number one how do i hook it into the brain so that it opens and closes with my windows?

I just tried this today to see... and if i get out of my car and lock it using the lock button on the door (then a little green security light comes on on the dash for the factory alarm) and then shut the door.. then use the viper remote to unlock it again my factory alarm will sound, is it supposed to do this? i thought i read something about a factory alarm disarm when the viper remote was used or did i mis read? also it is on a 2000 Chrysler Sebring LXI

If it's a coupe, it will be GREEN / WHITE (-) at driver kick, door harness. If it's a convertible, it will be lt/green orange in kick above hood release @ 470 ohms. The viper will disarm the factory alarm with one of these hookups. If you have the green light, i'm thinking it will be the first one.

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when you lock your with with the button on the it turn on alarm oem system when you unlock with viper alarm it wiil go off you need to disarm oem first  to do this you to hook up unlock wire from viper alarm to oem disarm on your car that way every time you unlock and disarm oem system at the time and oem alarm never go off

I'm not real sure how to do any of this, the car is a coupe, so should i just take it back to the installer and tell them to do it?

jayno20 wrote:

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I'm not real sure how to do any of this, the car is a coupe, so should i just take it back to the installer and tell them to do it?

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Yes....don't void any warranty you might have, by digging in to it your self. The job wasn't done correctly to begin with.

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well is it really that big of a deal? i mean it kinda bothers me, but is there any other problems that could pop up from this later?

If it doesn't bother you, then don't mess with it.....although they definately should of hooked it up. As long as you don't use the factory tx or hit the lock switch button before shutting the door....you won't have any problems.

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yeah well i am gonna go ahead and have them fix it cause they never hooked up my starter kill/anti grind either so i might as well have them do this at the same time...

but how sure are u that it is the GREEN / WHITE wire for the factory alarm disarm on a coupe?

80% sure.....the other 20% would be if i could test it.....They'll find it though.

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will they need to have my door panel off?

no, it can found at drivers door harness above the kick panel.

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will they be able to test for it from the kick panel? just incase the one u posted isnt the right one? the only reason i ask is because i've had back luck in the past with people taking off my door panel and breaking it...

yes, there would be no reason at all to take the door panel off.

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right now my viper 5900 is set to vent the windows down with aux + unlock and roll completely down if pressed and held... but my question is this... if i was driving along and had my windows open, then shut off the car and got out and went to lock the car, as soon as i lock it the windows are going to go up, but is there a way i can lock it without the windows going up?

i guess i should clearify this... i like the feature of the windows going up when armed, so i dont want to rewire... i was just wondering if theres a way to push additional buttons on the remote to make them NOT go up when armed if u dont want them to. basically if i come back from driving somewhere and i want my windows left open but once i get out of the car i press lock, is there a way to make them not go up in that situation?

Press the button combo to vent the windows immediately before arming the alarm.

that will work even if they are already down?

Yes it will work if the windows are already down. Just go try it....

ok cool that works, thanks!

if their a quality shop (which by not testing and hooking up required items i would say maybe not)they should know how to test for the proper disarm wire,( as well as they should have some kind of access to tech support from their manufacturer. and even if they had to go inside the door(which they do not)if they break it they have to replace it

yeah i ended up getting it all taken care of today... they hooked up the factory alarm disarm, starter kill, and anti grind which were NOT hooked up at the time of install and according to the guy i talked to he said the the guy that did the install was fired because he didnt hook up everything that should be hooked up at the time of install so the people kept coming back... but as of now everything works great.

I noticed with my 5900 that it doesnt receive a signal from the brain as often as my 791xv did, the 791 was about every 8-10 seconds and the 5900 is about 15-18 seconds. Is there any way to make it check more frequently?

no it has more of a delay than the 791

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if you have the 530t installed to lower and raise your windows up then ask them were they put the 530t module for the windows. if they stuck the module inside the driver door then when it rains the module will get wet or if it's bagged in a plastic bag the module will get wet still. water drops on the bag then it will get humid causing the water vapor to get inside making the 530t go crazy and your windows to be rolled down. happened to my car 4 years ago knocked my head trying to figure this out till I noticed this happened everytime it rained took the module out the sweaty bag and yep that was the reason my windows were rolled down without anyone useing or touching the remote so I placed the 530t inside the car next to the alarm brain. have that window module checked.good luck keep us posted.