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03 Murano, remote start problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88234
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 1:09 AM


Topic: 03 Murano, remote start problems

Posted By: j12v
Subject: 03 Murano, remote start problems
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:11 PM

Ive got the Viper 791XV (The one with the LCD remote start system) currently installed. Everything is ok except for the remote start.  Whenever I try to remote start the vehicle, the vehicle will turn the ignition on, crank, but the starter wont turn over. Either that or the car stays on for a second, and then shuts off on its own.

Yes, Ive got a relay wired up for the 2nd starter using a diagram from Velocity (Something, I forget the rest of his screen name here). As far as the bypass goes, I have one but I didnt hook it up yet BUT I was testing the remote starter WITH the key in the ignition. I also tried it with the bypass all hooked up and still nothing. For the tach wire I went straight to the coil I forget the wire color, but Im 99% sure that Ive got the right wire because when I programmed it to the alarm, the alarm read it. Ive also tried setting the crank time longer. Im also sure I have the correct brake wire. I say Im 99% sure about the tach because I used my testlight rather than my meter because my meter needs to get recalibrated. You might say testlights cant read AC, but the one I use can.

So... Im stuck. I held my test light to the ignition wire of the car while remote starting and it seems like the ignition isnt staying on. I also tried to remote start the car by turning the key to "on" while it remote starts, but you know usually when you remote start a vehicle, and you turn the key on withOUT pressing the brake.... You can still turn the key off, and the engine would be still running right? Not with this car...

Sorry if I jumped from topic to topic. Its just I know the answer is just sitting there in my face and I just cant put my finger on it. Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!




Replies:

Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:19 PM
Oh yeah, the jumpers are on the right spot, and the settings are set for tach inputs ;)




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:28 PM
Make sure that if you used a starter disable that you have the proper side of the wire going to the starter side and the switch side. If the IGN is not staying on under crank, then you tagged the wrong wire. The main ignition wire is BLACK/ RED.

The Immobilizer is a RF type system so placing the key in the ignition should work & if not then you have a wiring problem. Check to see that your brake wire is not getting 12 volts ( also test the brake wire when the ignition is ON incase it's got a voltage bleed in the wire ).

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:41 PM

Hmm... Im pretty sure that I got the correct BLACK/ red and as far as the starter disable goes (You mean a separate relay right?!) I installed the system with the purple and green wires for the starter, and Im sure I got those wired correctly. But just to make sure, if it was wired incorrectly, the system shouldnt crank then right?

I also tried remote starting the vehicle with the brake wire removed, and still nothing.

I will have to quadrouple check my ignition wires though. Even though Im certain I got the right wires the problem Im having seems like theres a simple solution to it, I just cant pin point it.

I'll probably see that car again this weekend, but I'll keep you guys posted if anything.

Thanks for the help Jeff!





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 5:01 PM
How's the ground to the system ?

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 02, 2007 at 7:25 PM

You know when you remove the lower drivers side dash? Then you got that metal piece held in by 2 10mm bolts? Its not grounded to the removable metal piece, but where that metal piece secures on to. Used a ring terminal with the handy dandy self tapping screw





Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 04, 2007 at 9:11 PM

Hey Jeff, one thing I forgot to mention... For the door trigger, I used the keyring light (Reason being is because the red wire that I tested at the BCM wasnt showing me that it was the door trigger). I used a diode also just to be safe.

Do you think this could be the cause? Either way, Im going to test the remote starter withOUT it hooked up but I wont get a chance to see the car till this weekend.

Thanks again





Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 05, 2007 at 6:16 PM
BTT




Posted By: wkndracr
Date Posted: January 05, 2007 at 9:53 PM
Sounds like a programming issue. I do a lot of fx35's (same car) and always just set it to voltage check and set the crank time to 1 sec (or whatever 3 blinks is). starts every time, not one comeback yet.
your door trigger wire has nothing to do with it.




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 05, 2007 at 11:35 PM
I use .8 seconds instead of 1.0, but I'm with wkndracer in that they work fine in voltage sense.

Regardless, try the following:

--Try pit-stop mode. Start car with key....engage the remote starter with the car already running.....turn key off, and remove it. Does the car stay running, with everything working properly?

--Try temporarily re-programming for voltage sense mode, with .8 seconds crank time (or longer). If it starts now, you have the wrong tach wire.

--Go into the remote starter's diagnostic mode. It will tell you the reason for the remote start shutting down........hood, brake, over-rev, etcetera........this is much easier than cutting the brake wire.

--Have you tried holding your test light to EACH of the car's two starter wires during remote start? It's possible you made an error in your relay wiring, and the second-starter wire isn't getting powered.




Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 06, 2007 at 1:52 AM

Chris Luongo wrote:

I use .8 seconds instead of 1.0, but I'm with wkndracer in that they work fine in voltage sense.

Regardless, try the following:

--Try pit-stop mode. Start car with key....engage the remote starter with the car already running.....turn key off, and remove it. Does the car stay running, with everything working properly?

--Try temporarily re-programming for voltage sense mode, with .8 seconds crank time (or longer). If it starts now, you have the wrong tach wire.

--Go into the remote starter's diagnostic mode. It will tell you the reason for the remote start shutting down........hood, brake, over-rev, etcetera........this is much easier than cutting the brake wire.

--Have you tried holding your test light to EACH of the car's two starter wires during remote start? It's possible you made an error in your relay wiring, and the second-starter wire isn't getting powered.

I'll be sure to try the pit stop mode next time I get the chance. Lets say it does keep running then what, and if shuts off with the key... ?

I tried to use voltage sense before, but the vehicle made a funny sound when I remote started it. The Murano started up and everything, stayed running too. Its just when its finally started (In voltage sense mode) theres like... a hissing type of sound which isnt heard if the Murano was started with the ignition key.

I'll try that diagnostic mode thing also. I believe I might've gotten a weak signal of the tach wire. I read in someone else's post about it.

Yeah I tested the 2nd starter wire. It gets juice. Double checked it even.





Posted By: j12v
Date Posted: January 06, 2007 at 1:53 AM

wkndracr wrote:

Sounds like a programming issue. I do a lot of fx35's (same car) and always just set it to voltage check and set the crank time to 1 sec (or whatever 3 blinks is). starts every time, not one comeback yet.
your door trigger wire has nothing to do with it.

Id rather use the tach. Have you ever use the tach wire in any of your installs? If so, where did you grab the tach wire from?






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