2001 Toyota Camry, Crimestopper EZ90

Installing a EZ90 in a 01 Camry using a PKT bypass.. Questions.. Any tips / tricks for this vehicle would be great.. Also.. Should I be hooking up the OEM Disarm and OEM Rearm wires from the remote start or not? Installogy says “If the vehicle is equipped with factory security, it is best to use the Arm and Disarm wires since these wires also control the doorlocks. You must still use the BLUE/RED wire in conjunction with the disarm wire to unlock all doors. Unlocking may require a double pulse.” But Directech says that the locks control the alarm? So which is it? Is the fusebox easy to find / get to? Looks like that’s where a few of the wires are (locks, parking lights, and brake).. Also, where is the ECM that the PKT hooks up to? Is it just in a connector up by the ignition?

11 Pin Connector

Pin 1: Yellow/White: (-) Horn Chirp/Honk Output - GREEN/ Black at Steering Column
Pin 2: Black: Main System Ground – Ground
Pin 3: Yellow/Black: (-) Ignition Output – Brown of PKT
Pin 4: Brown: (-) Aux Output (Trunk Pop) – N/A
Pin 5: Green: (-) Start Activation Input, – N/A
Pin 6: Gray: (-) Negative Hood Pin Switch – N/A
Pin 7: Pink: Negative Or Positive Diesel Glow Plug – N/A
Pin 8: Purple: (+12V) Brake Reset – GREEN / WHITE on Bottom of Fusebox – White connector just below fuses with the wires exiting out toward you.
Pin 9: ORANGE / Black: (-) Oem Disarm Output – N/A Disarms with unlock
Pin 10: Orange: (-) Oem Rearm Output – N/A Arms with lock
Pin 11: RED / White: Tachometer Input – Black or Gray - On the 4 cylinder motor use the black wire in the gray plug at the coil on the drivers side of the motor. On the 6 cylinder motor use the gray wire located at the ignitor on a bracket just in front of the strut tower. The module says Denso on it. On the 2.2L engine the tach is BLACK or YELLOW/RED at the coils on the left side of the engine (2 cylinder signal). You can also find a BLACK/ ORANGE at the ECM behind the glove box, pin-7 or pin-8 of the 22-pin connector (4 cylinder signal). On the 3.0L engine the tach is BLUE at the igniter on the left strut tower (2 cylinder signal), or BLACK/ ORANGE at ECM pin-27 of 28-pin connector (6 cylinder signal).


7-Pin Connector

Brown: +12V Starter Output 30A: - Red @ IGN Harness
Gray: +12V Accessory Output 30A: - Blue / Red @ IGN Harness
(2) Red: +12V Power Input Wires (30A Fused):- White Or WHITE/ Red @ IGN Harness
Pink: +12V Ignition Output 30A: - BLACK / YELLOW @ IGN Harness
Pink/White: +12V Multi-Function Output 30A (Jumper Selectable): Ignition 2 BLACK/ Red @ IGN Harness
White: +12V Or (-) Negative Parking Light Output: - Green on Bottom of Fusebox – White connector just below fuses with the wires exiting out toward you.


Power Door Lock Wiring Connector (The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself.)

Pin 1: Blue: (-) Negative Pulse For Unlock – Dark Blue in Orange Plug @ Bottom of Fusebox
Pin 2: Red: +12V When Using External Relays (Term 86) – N/A
Pin 3: Green: (-) Negative Pulse For Lock – Dark Blue / White in Orange Plug @ Bottom of Fusebox

PKT

Black: Ground - Ground
Red: 12V – Red of ECM
Orange: Synchro (TXCT) – WHITE/ Yellow of ECM
Pink: Clock to ECM (RXCK) – Cut White wire of ECM and connect to VEHCILE side
Pink/White: Clock From Key Cylinder (RXCK) - Cut White wire of ECM and connect to Connector side
Purple: Data to ECM (CODE) - Cut WHITE/ Blue wire of ECM and connect to VEHCILE side
PURPLE / White: Data in from key cylinder (CODE) - Cut WHITE/ Blue wire of ECM and connect to Connector side
Blue: N/A
Green: Keysense Output (-) Negative – N/A
Brown: Ground Output When Running – Yellow/Black of 11 Pin

Does your car really have a factory alarm and a transponder key? Both of those things are available on the Camry, but are pretty rare......is yours the XLE model?

Also, look for a red flashing LED labeled "SECURITY" in the tachometer. If you don't have that, there's no transponder.

OK, regardless of factory alarm or not, here's what you do for the locks:

Go to the brownish-orange plug coming out the bottom of the fusebox.

Blue/white: tests as ground when turning the key to "lock" in EITHER door.

Blue: tests as ground when turning the key to "unlock" in the PASSENGER door.

GREEN/ red: tests as ground when turning the key to "unlock" in DRIVER door.

TIP: On cars with factory keyless entry, the GREEN/ red will unlock only the driver's door on one pulse, and all doors with a second pulse.

On cars without factory keyless, a double pulse will unlock all doors at the same time.

Again, regardless of alarm or not, these are the correct wires to use for the locks..........if you have an alarm, they'll do arm/disarm too.......and if you don't have an alarm, they'll still work.

If you do have a factory alarm, take your yellow/black negative ignition out........connect it to two diodes.......then one diode gets connected to the brown on your PKT......the other diode goes to the small blue/black keysense wire at the key cylinder.

As long as the car's keysense wire sees ground during the time the remote starter is on, this will disarm the Toyota alarm. You won't need the Crimestopper's dis-arm or re-arm output wires for anything.

P.S. You don't need to remove the glove box to get tach, and there's certainly no need to go under the hood. Simply unclip the black panel that's UNDER the glove box, and you can get to the BLACK/ orange tach under there.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Does your car really have a factory alarm and a transponder key? Both of those things are available on the Camry, but are pretty rare......is yours the XLE model?

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Thanks for the reply!!! I don't have the car yet. I'm getting it this weekend. The owner said the key had black plastic on the end of it..

He said the model was a Camry CE LES??? That doesn't sound right but I dunno...

I don't thnik the LE models came with immobilizers. Like Chris said, they are rare. You'll know it by the security light on the cluster...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Even the non-chip keys have the black plastic on it.

And no, the model the customer told you doesn't sound right at all.

CE: The cheapest, stripped one. I call it the Cheapskate Edition.

LE: Decently equipped; power mirrors, etcetera. This is what most people seem to have.

XLE: Loaded, including automatic climate control, sunroof, sometimes leather.......you don't see too many of these.

There's also an SE "sports" model, but only from 2002-up.

Deciphering his model I would think it's a LE?? I know it has power locks.. Does the CE come with power locks? If not then I would say it's definitely the LE...

Well, you never know. The last "Camry" I went to work on actually was a Corolla.

Customer just dropped off the car.. It's an LE with power locks but no keyfobs. I'm guessing it didn't come with them (unless he just didn't bring it but I doubt that).

I don't see any security light flashing.. So 100% it doesn't need a bypass? Also, since no security light no factory alarm? If so.. I'm pumped!!

I wouldn't miss the light blinking right? When would it be blinking? With the key in? Out? Etc?

Where do you usually mount the brain?

Thanks much!!!!!!

Locks... Is there any other way to test because the dude's key is either jacked or the passenger lock cylinder is jacked. I put the key in the lock but can't turn it either way..

Definatley no bypass or alarm. You can't miss the light, it has SECURITY written next to it. Chris's lock wires he mentions above are 100% accurate. If you can't turn the lock you can be confident they are correct without testing. This car is as easy as it gets, you should be able to roll right thru it...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

This is how/where I mount the brain on those cars:

Do your bench prep, leaving the thick ignition wires maybe 12"-15" long.

With the brain just sitting on the car floor, make your ignition connections at the keyswitch.

Afterward, hold the brain up high above where the driver's left foot would be, and zip-tie it to the existing factory wire harnesses there. Position those ignition wires where they won't fall, and can't get caught up in the steering linkage......then continue with your other connections.

As far as the locks and stuff......only a few of those cars came with keyless, so it probably never had factory remotes.

If the key will turn in the driver's door, use those wires..........also, that allows you to test the wires at the fusebox without a helper, as you should be able to reach through the car window to turn the key, while holding your tester in place with your right hand.

If you find yourself unable to test the wires, do this. First, do your complete remote-start install, everything except the locks.......ground, antenna, programming, etcetera.

After that's all done, make temporary connections from the remote starter, to the lock wires in the car, and try them out.

The idea is that the lock/unlock outputs from the remote starter are weak, and they can't damage too many things in the car.................as opposed to just playing with jumper wires to ground, which can wreak more havoc...............if you're going to make a mistake and burn something out, you're far better off damaging the remote starter than damaging the car.

Thanks a lot everyone! Install was one of the easiest I have done..

Chris, thanks a lot for the tip on the tach! I HATE running the tach through the firewall into the engine. You saved me a good amount of time!!!