2003 Saturn Ion Rem start, cranks, stops
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88685
Printed Date: June 09, 2024 at 9:28 PM
Topic: 2003 Saturn Ion Rem start, cranks, stops
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Subject: 2003 Saturn Ion Rem start, cranks, stops
Date Posted: January 09, 2007 at 10:11 PM
Got everything done today in a 2003 saturn ion, follow the directfax document 1603 for the bypass. Learned the tach, remote started just fine. Went to remote start it a couple minutes later it cranks and then dies. I've tried both voltage and tach sense. The resistance on the vehicle is 5.5, I used a 2.39 resistor. Is it possible I just need to turn engine checking off? Or are there any other possible solutions anyone that has done one of these cars can give.
Replies:
Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: January 09, 2007 at 10:16 PM
The first step would be to get a closer resistor in there and go from there. You are using a resistor that is less than half of the one you need..
Mike
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 7:30 AM
Yes, if you're using a resistor that is nowhere close, of course it isn't going to start.
Is the little "padlock" icon on the dash flashing when you try to remote start? If so, there's the problem.
Also, does it still start with the key? If not, leave the ignition on for 10 minutes until the padlock light stops flashing.
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 8:38 AM
sorry, it was late last night...I used a 5.39 resistor for 5.5 resistance at the key
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 8:49 AM
Recheck the resistance and make sure that the ohms that you are reading is infact k-ohms and the resistors that you have are also k-ohms.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 10:04 AM
They are in K-ohms
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 6:45 PM
And how about those questions about the security light?
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Date Posted: January 10, 2007 at 11:36 PM
I am able to start the car with the key right after the remote start fails, so it is not going in to security mode after it attempts to remote start
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 11, 2007 at 6:57 AM
Not necessarily.
If you are not able/willing to answer our questions about the security light, it will be difficult for us to help you.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 11, 2007 at 8:06 AM
xxmattfxx, Chris is correct.The Passlock light is the tell tale signature of a faulty or incorrect Passlock bypass module. Let us know what it's doing when under remote start and we can help diagnose the problem sooner and with better accuracy if we can get all the information.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Date Posted: January 12, 2007 at 1:04 AM
sorry, I didn't mean to avoid the question...I don't have the car in front of me right now and won't until next tuesday. Just trying to get some suggestions of things to try based on what I do remember about the intall.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 12, 2007 at 8:52 AM
Ok, for when you get the car back:
Attempt to remote start, and observe padlock symbol on dash.
Flashing: Bypass is wrong or misprogrammed.
Steady, and then goes out: Bypass is good; remote start is wrong.
Posted By: xxmattfxx
Date Posted: January 12, 2007 at 9:26 PM
I was told by DEI tech support that using the tach wire listed in directechs will cause this issue (even though the brain will learn the tach), and that it needs to be tapped to a fuel injector
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 7:34 AM
The car already has General Motors' CCCS (Computer Conrolled Cranking System). It is impossible to over-crank or under-crank the starter, even using the key......and the car has factory anti-grind too.
For that reason, I see little benefit in using tach sensing at all.
At any rate, when the car comes back, you could always re-program your unit for voltage sense and see if that makes any difference.......if it doesn't change, then the tach wire wasn't the problem.
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