06 magnum remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88876
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 1:24 PM

Topic: 06 magnum remote start

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Subject: 06 magnum remote start
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 12:22 PM

Does anyone have the diagram and has anyone had any problems installing into this vehicle.

thanks for your replies

Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 1:57 PM

DEI Lists:

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - DODGE / MAGNUM / 2006 / Remote Start

[PRINT THIS PAGE]

12volts      lt. blue/red (15A)       +       ignition harness
Starter      pink/dk. green       +       ignition harness
Second Starter      PURPLE / brown       -       ignition harness
Notes: The second starter wire is negative trigger thru an 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.
Ignition      pink/white       +       ignition harness
Second Ignition
Third Ignition
Accessory      same as second starter wire       -       ignition harness
Notes: The accessory wire is negative trigger thru a 610 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.
Second Accessory
Keysense
Power Lock      PURPLE / dk. green       -       DKP or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 5
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 100 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.
Power Unlock      same as power lock wire
Lock Motor      lt. green       5wi      DKP or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 12
Unlock Motor      tan/lt. green       5wi      DKP or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 11
Parking Lights+      WHITE/ purple       +       pass. kick, brn 26 pin plug, pin 26
Parking Lights-      WHITE/ brown       -       sw or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 3
Notes: Parking lights are negative trigger thru an 1,670 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so must use a relay to isolate from the switch.
Hazards      WHITE/ dk. blue       -       hazard switch
Turn Signal(L)      use hazards wire
Turn Signal(R)      use hazards wire
Reverse Light      WHITE/ lt. green       +       pass. kick, brn 26 pin plug, pin 17
Door Trigger      see notes       -       each kick or instrument cluster
Notes: The LF door is purple in the white plug, pin 3. The RF door is PURPLE / white in the white plug, pin 16. The LR door is PURPLE / gray in the gray 26 pin plug, pin 10. The RR door is purple / YELLOW in the gray 26 pin plug, pin 9. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision      yellow/white       +       instrument cluster, wht plug, pin 12
Notes: Also found in the passenger side A pillar.
Trunk/Hatch Pin      PURPLE / orange       -       PKP or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 23
Hood Pin      PURPLE / lt. blue (export only)       -       pin switch under hood
Trunk/Hatch Release      PURPLE / tan       -       PKP or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 22
Notes: The hatch release is negative trigger thru a 4,700 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. This wire will meter when you use the release handle on the rear hatch.

The hatch release motor wire is tan / YELLOW (5wi) in the passenger kick or instrument cluster, white plug, pin 24.
Power Sliding Door      N/A
Factory Alarm Arm      arms on lock with door open
Factory Alarm Disarm      factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock      with ignition and Sentry Key
Tachometer      NOT BROWN / yellow       ac       any ignition coil or fuel injector
Wait to start      N/A
Brake Wire      dk. GREEN / WHITE       +       brake pedal switch
Parking Brake      gray/black       -       sw or cluster, gry 26P plug, pin 18
Horn Trigger      dk. GREEN/ orange       +       horns under hood
Memory Seat 1      PURPLE / brown       -       memory switch in driver door
Notes: Memory seats are negative trigger thru resistors. The resistor values are not known at this time. Cut the wire and meter the values as you press the memory 1 and memory 2 buttons.
Memory Seat 2      same as memory seat 1 wire       -
Memory Seat 3      N/A       -
Interface Module:      Category:
Immobilizer Bypass      Required:
Yes      Type:
Sentry Key
Part #: 556CW
Alternate Part1 #: 556UW
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models.
Interface Module:      Category:
Door Lock Interface      Required:
No      Type:
Multiplex
Part #: 456LW
Notes:
Interface Module:      Category:
Combo Interface      Required:
No      Type:
Data Bus
Part #: IOM-Chrysler-7
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available

warning
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

Directfax 1084

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 10:21 PM

Can anyone tell me which harness holds the Mux PURPLE / brn wire. The ignition harness has what looks like a PURPLE / orange but this could also be brown. Not quite sure. Can anyone verify this.

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 10:26 PM

Oh and thank-you twelvoltz :)

Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 11:27 PM

that's probably your ire. Just test it it should read about 6 volts with the ignition on and around 8 or so when cranking the engine.

-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 11:31 PM

Isnt the Mux suppose to be wire with only a negative polarity on the line?

Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 13, 2007 at 11:40 PM

yes. Put the postive probe to +12volts and probe it with the negative probe. Those are the approx readings you should get on the meter.

-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 14, 2007 at 8:54 PM

Well i installed a copmustar 1wams. I used a Pats Chysler04+ bypass for my data wire and transponder.

Now here is my problem. When i remote start i get no lights on my dash, parklights come on and the vehicle turns over and dies. No accessory or anything.

When i start with a key i get a check engine light. With dtc codes U0101, n/a, U1403 and another one i dint write down.

I check all my wiring and i have all my bypass wires tapped into the starter's wiring the way it should be.

I have 1ignition out put from the starter, i have starter out put.

But when i remotely start i get no startup light no accessory(heater)

The bypass is programmed becuase it took apar the key and tested the bypass turning it with the disassembled key. So i know its programmed.

Any ideas??

Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 14, 2007 at 8:58 PM

How'd you interface the negative multiplex accy/second starter. sounds like that is your problem.

-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 14, 2007 at 9:02 PM

the bypass allows for your neg acc/starter Mux wire.

This is how i wired it up https://ifar.ca/download.php?productmanualid=198

Just like it shows.

Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 14, 2007 at 9:13 PM

I'd double check your connections then. It's either that of the bypass is no good. The gauge cluster will come on if the mux wire is properly interfaced. Your chk eng lights are because that mux wire is not doing what the car is expecting.

-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 14, 2007 at 9:18 PM

ya thats what im thinking tommorow, ill have to go and get a new bypass. I doubled and trippled checked all my connections and wiring and its all right meh......

I hope its the bypass *crosses fingers*

Posted By: azn_fcuk
Date Posted: January 15, 2007 at 9:37 PM

Ok here an update.

If your doing a 06 and up Magnum, make sure your fortin Pats 04+ bypass is ver.5.0 or greater.

Also the ground out the bypass(not the GWR) to the Violet/Orange wire, that wire is ground through the mux wire and works better.

After i tooled around for half the day with a new bypass that dint change anything, i was just about to goto the resistor method, but i remembered a simmilar problem awhile back and grounding out through the violet/orange wire cured it, so i gave it a shot. Wallah works great now.

Thanks for all the replies

posted_image Chryslers!!!!!