99 forerunner add on remote start

I'm installing an Omega add on remote start unit in a 99 toyota forerunner.  According to the DEI sheet I have, the wire for power locks is BROWN / white in the passenger kick.  I found this wire and it tests correctly when you turn the key in the door.  However, I need a wire that will show negative when you press the lock button on the factory keyless remote in order to activate the remote start.  Does anybody know where I can find a wire to do this?  Thanks.

Shaun

Well, I found the parking light and brake wire and I tried something with the lock wire going to the lock actuator.  It showed 12 volts when the lock button is pressed and I reversed the polarity.  This works fine to crank the vehicle up, but after it's running the keyless entry remote doesn't work anymore.  Any suggestions please.

Toyota keyless doesn't work with the motor running.  Better to do it the right way the first time---buy a remote starter that also includes its own keyless.  Also, if the unit has a trunk-release channel that makes a steady output as long as you hold down the button on the remote, it is possible to use it to roll down the rear window.

Window rolldown is pretty easy.  Up and down are simply negative triggers from the switch, but the ignition must also be on........you'll need one relay and an optional diode.....it's pretty easy.

First, find the wires coming from the switch.  Go to the front of the fuse box, to the plug below the fuses.  Find these two wires:  red, and RED / black.........one is up, one is down.....I just forget which.  They'll show a ground when you press the window switch.

Now, here's how to set it up.....

Take the auxillary output of the alarm, and send it to terminal 85 of a relay.  Also, make another wire that goes from here, over to the car's red (or RED / black) wire.

86 and 87 get constant, fused, positive power.

87a is not used.

30 goes to the BLACK / YELLOW "second ignition" wire at the ignition switch.

So, when you press the button on your remote, it directly triggers the wire coming from the window switch, and at the same time, the relay powers up the car's second ignition circuit----this will bring the window down (or up).

TWO NOTES:

1.  There is one small quirk in the setup I outlined above----even when the car is off, the "window down" switch on the dashboard will still energize your relay-----this basically means that the window can be rolled down at all times.  If you like this, fine.  If you don't like it, insert a diode inline on the wire that goes from 85 to the "window down" wire on the car.

2.  The window takes about four to five seconds to roll completely down.  You'll want the auxillary output of your remote starter to make a steady output as long as you hold the button------unfortunately, some units only make a one-second pulse for trunk release.  If this is the case, you can press the button over and over until the window comes all the way down, or better yet, do something to extend the pulse, either with capacitors or a timer relay.