1998 Subaru Forester, clifford RSX3.5

I have a 1998 Subaru Foretser. I also have a clifford RSX3.5 that I'm trying to install.

When I installed the unit, the alarm itself would work, but the doors would not lock or unlock. I unplugged the lock feed from the unit, and hooked up the multimeter. 12v on the blue wire when I unlocked the car, and 12v on the green when I locked.

The unit was supplying 12v constant through the blue wire (though I could still manually lock and unlock the doors). I sent the unit back to clifford, and I recieved a new one.

I tossed it in the other day (after checking all of my connections which seemed to match correctly to the wiring instructions) and the same thing happened. Locks didn't work by remote.

I unplugged the wires, they were the same, and I tested the unit. 12v on the blue wire when pushing unlock on the remote, and 12v on the green wire when locking by remote.

So what do you all think is the problem? What should I try next? I'm at a loss, and I just want my remote door locks to work!

Thank you!

Phil

What you describe is exactly how the Clifford is supposed to operate. The door lock outputs on that model are transistorized outputs that 'flip/flop' between + and - outputs. If your vehicle is not responding to the negative pulses from the system it is possible that the positive outputs are causing this issue (although I can not think of any Suburu's having an issue with it). Try inserting a couple of diodes inline to prevent the positive pulses from going to the factory wiring. You can read up on diodes and how to install them if you click here. You would insert them with the band facing the brain of the alarm.

But it appears that the module is outputting the proper signals. It provides 12v to the blue wire when unlocking, and the car applys 12v to the blue wire when unlocking.

Do I have the wires backwards? Should I have the RSX3.5 output 12v to the green wire when unlocking?

if the wires were simply backwards, the car would unlock when you press the lock button, and lock when you press the unlock button.

The wire information given by DEI says the lock wires are attached to a module right above the fuse box. Use RED / white for lock, and yellow/red for unlock. Test those wires with your meter. When locking the car, red white should show a negative pulse. When unlocking, yellow/red should show a negative pulse. Should be as easy as connecting the wires.

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Seth Alvo     NY
Mobile Electronics Installer

Hmm, something is strange indeed. I'll look again, I KNOW for a fact that the yellow/red wire is tapped for unlock, I'll double check for the RED / white. I am positive that it is tapped for lock.

BUT, there is something strange about the Forester.

I had no keyless entry when I bought the car. I bought the OEM keyless entry unit (plugs right in, no wiring at all). On the stock keyless entry plug, there is a jumper wire. It's removed when the keyless entry unit goes in.

With the jumper wire removed, the lock-unlock switch will lock and unlock all doors but the drivers door. With it jumped, it unlocks/locks all doors. Does the DEI guide say anything about leaving these two wires unjumped?

Currently, I have the two wires jumped so that all of the door locks respond to the switch input.

It sounds like your alarm unit is outputing a (+) pulse rather than the (-) it needs. I am not framiliar with Cliffords at all, but would asume there is a jumper in the alarm unit to output a (-) pulse for your locks. I guess the other way to do it, would be to use the + outputs from the alarm to drive 2 relays to give you a (-) output for your locks. lock 85 (+) 87 to lock/unlock, 30 ground, 86 ground.. kind of round about, but it will work...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

Anyone else have any ideas?

A friend installed the same unit on his WRX, and it works beautifully. How different can they be?

imseth - I am quite sure those are the wires I am tapped into. Does it say anything about the jumper?

I'll check later this week when I have some free time.

Any additional help would be fantastic!

that model doesnt have a jumper to change the polarity for keyless.  check and double check wires used and try diode isolating. and how was that wire jumped? disconnect your keyless wires and test your wires again. they should show negative pulses when you lock and unlock from the car. also why did you need to plug the keyless entry box in? ive never heard or seen a jumper being needed to make the dr side switch work....... 

i have a 97 legacy that i put keyless in and it was straightforward, negative pulses, yours should be different wire colors but just as easy

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git yer swerve on!

I will have to poke around a little and scope things out then. I'll get this goshdarnit!

From the factory, there was a little plug that jumped two wires. You have the jumper connected when the factory option keyless entry is not in place, and you remove the jumper when the keyless entry option is installed. With that jumper unplugged (and no keyless entry plugged in), the drivers door does not unlock when you push the unlock button on the door.

Where does DEI suggest tapping into the Tach signal, and which wire for the brake signal? Also, how about for the Defrost option? That'd be nice if it was available.

Thanks in advance!

Try tapping the wires you think are the UNLOCK and LOCK wires in the car to Ground in the car. I would recommend using a 3 amp fused jumper wire in case you have the wrong wire. If the doors lock and unlock as they are supposed to, you know you have the right wires.

There are often 2 Yellow/red wires at the keyless entry module on Subaru's. One is unlock...the other is the trunk (or hatch) pin wire. You may have the wrong one.