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do i need a new battery?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90128
Printed Date: May 22, 2024 at 8:26 PM


Topic: do i need a new battery?

Posted By: peterubers
Subject: do i need a new battery?
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 7:44 AM

Car: 1997 Nissan Maxima GXE

R/S: Ultrastart 1270TL

For the past couple "cooler" the r/s has worked FLAWLESSLY... now that it's -10 below here in Chicago, here's what it does:

When the * button is pressed to initiate remote start, it will chirp/honk ONCE, turn over for 2-3 seconds without successfully starting the engine (it seems like it's struggling -- like it's a weak battery ... or the typical cold engine in -10 degrees).  Then, however, it does NOT try to start the engine again (as it is programmed to do so in the event of an unsuccessful start).  It leaves the parking lights ON and constant .  When you press it (*) again, it honks twice, then the lights go out.  When you press it a 3rd time (*), it starts up with much more vigor (seems like the battery is a little more charged) and it successfully cranks the engine to starting... and voila.. the car is started.

Do I need a new battery?  Do I need to re-program?  Is anyone familiar with this behavior on the Ultrastart 1270TL?

I have a customer with a 2001 Nissan Sentra .. my install as well, and in the SAME weather conditions, NEVER once has it not started the car on the first try.  The difference is that this customer's nissan sentra has a brand newer battery (within 1 year old).

Thanks!



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Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 8:06 AM

I guess since it works most of the time....you've got both starter wires connected.......right? The jumper for the white wire is on possistion #1 And the wire is connected to the #2 starter wire?

blk/wht #1

RED / blue #2



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Posted By: warpedimage3
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 10:55 AM
are you using tach sensing or voltage sense? the reason the parking lights stay on and it doesnt try and start again is because the unit thinks the car is running.  When you hit the buttons again it turns off the parking lights and thinks it turns off the car.  It sounds to me like you are using voltage sensing.  The best way to fix it would be to hook up the tach wire if this is already done make sure the brain is set to tach sensing.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 12:59 PM

I am using Voltage sense -- previously, I was using Tach Sense, but then I decided to use voltage sense by using the "quick tach Learn" feature (I wanted to shorten the time it took to crank b/c it seemed like it was cranking a bit too long). 

So, my tach wire is connected and it working fine -- should I reset the system, and have it re-learn the tach in order to shift back into tach sensing mode? 

Thanks!!



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Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 1:01 PM
And yes, I have the jumper set to "second starter" and the white wire is connected to the Starter#2 wire of the Nissan. In fact, when I start the car in the extreme cold, i can hear that "gurgling" of the injectors spraying fuel into the engine so I know in fact that the second starter wire is receiving power and functioning appropriately.

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Posted By: brhaugen
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 1:47 PM
I am in North Dakota and have run into issues with voltage sense when it is this cold. I would setup tach and re-learn it when the vehicle is cold.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 3:18 PM

Brhaugen,

Thanks for the response... nice to know i'm not alone!  Will try tach learning today.



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Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 7:56 PM
run a tach wire, no doubt will fix...




Posted By: warpedimage3
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 10:53 PM
yea voltage sense has problems when it is extremely cold




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:43 PM
I'd try some combination of these three things:

1. Switch back to tach. Since you already have the wire hooked up, it's easy.

2. Have the battery tested somewhere. Most of the big-chain parts stores, as well as Sears or a Wal-Mart auto center, will most likely test it for free.

3. Next time it's really cold, connect another car to yours with jumper cables, and see if the remote start works any better. If it doesn't, replacing the battery probably won't help either.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 9:47 PM

Ok -- so I think I have isolated the problem:

So I purchased a new battery ... and it remote started successfully in the cold once or twice .. but reverted to the problem as previously described:  It will crank a couple turns on the first morning cold start .. then stop cranking .. the parking lights go on, and it "thinks" the car is on... b/c the next time you hold down the remote start button, it chirps twice and the lights go out (as if it just shut itself off).

Now .. i'm thinking this could be narrowed down to two problems:

1) bad ground (less likely -- it was working perfectly until I did the following about a week ago -- right around the time my problem started)

2) Right around the time this started.. I installed the defroster feature onto this Maxima.  Now, ultrastart does not have a dedicated defroster trigger, so here's how i did it -  I employed two relays and the constant to momentary diagram from this website:

First relay: 85 = ignition wire on remote starter (blue on the Ultra 1270TL), 86 to GWR wire on r/s unit, 87 = ignition wire on r/s unit (blue, again), 30 = connected to 85 on SECOND relay. 

SECOND relay:  85 (as previously described), 86 = chassis ground, 87 = connected to defroster switch (i.e. the wire off the defroster switch that needs to go to Ground to trip the defroster) and 30 = 1K capacitor in parallel with a 10K ohm resistor (as per the diagram on this website for constant to momentary) and the negative end of the capacitor/resistor combo goes to chassis ground.

Basically... I only wanted the defroster to go on when remote started, and not each time the owner started the car manually (i.e. key in ignition).  And I wanted to create a "momentary" ground to the defroster trip wire so that I wouldn't burn out the defroster, utilizing the constant 12volt+ from the ignition wire to trip a series of relays to create a "momentary" ground output to the defroster switch.  When it's not cold, it works flawlessly.  However, now that it's cold, it's perhaps .. robbing the ignition wire of too much power? .. and could this be causing the brain to think the car as started?  Or, once the capacitor's charge is full -- the blip in current messes with the "brain" enough to cause it to just do something haywire?

Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks for all the replies -- very helpful info.



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Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 7:57 AM

Ok --

Update:  So I disconnected my defroster Relay#1 from the defroster unit, and on the first cold start of the day .. same problem:

User presses " * " button, car chirps once, car cranks for 1.0 seconds, car stops cranking, parking lights come on and stay constant. 

User then has to hold down * button to shut "off" remote starter, and then when she presses * again, it chirps once, cranks .. only THIS time it starts no problem.

Why doesn't it try three attempts at starting?

PS:  I've never "learned" the tach in the frigid, first morning cold .. I've always learned the tach when the car was warmed up .. or at least when the engine oil was not jelly.

Should I re-learn the tach in the extreme cold so the remote starter knows to rev the car to a higher speed?

Thanks again (...frustrated beyond belief)



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: soultinter
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 9:43 AM

either try a different tach source, or relearn tach, but there 2 different ways to do it, some systems respond better to 1 technique better than the other and vice versa. A: make sure vehicle is warmed up TOTALLY, meaning idling at the lowest possible RPM, turn on blower etc to increase load etc and then learn tach, or B: rev engine slightly as you learn tach, technically not the proper method but sometimes helps.





Posted By: warpedimage3
Date Posted: February 10, 2007 at 4:54 PM
also check if there is a programming procedure you have to go through to switch to tach sensing because it seems like your still using voltage sense.  I am not familiar with ultrastart but i know with the units we sell you must switch to either voltage or tach sensing.





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