2007 chevy trailblazer remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90356
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 9:14 AM
Topic: 2007 chevy trailblazer remote start
Posted By: paul h
Subject: 2007 chevy trailblazer remote start
Date Posted: February 11, 2007 at 9:28 PM
Anybody done one yet?? Are they the same as the 06 models in reference to wiring and locations?? It will be a AutoPage RS600 add-on. Basically wants it for the RS and keep the factory stuff...so I just need to hit a few wires and use the GM-SL bypass module for the ignition crap I would assume...but thats why I'm asking!! Thanks guys & gals.
Replies:
Posted By: cutter1122
Date Posted: February 13, 2007 at 7:59 PM
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: February 13, 2007 at 8:37 PM
Thank you very much!!!
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 7:57 AM
yes, fortunately for us gm hasnt changed the trailblazer in years except for no longer having a starter wire, this is in my opinion 1 of the easiest vehicles to do , everything easily accessible under dash ( even tach)
brake wire, park light wire and tach in thick harness running left to right under ignition harness molex
also i have never had to power up brown wire in this vehicle though i have read some posts that say they have
some cheapo units( hornet 569 or 570t)do not like tachless as when heater turns on it draws more voltage than module wnats and shuts down, so i always use a good quality unit and hooking up tach is therefore optional on this car
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 11:16 AM
Thanks for the information. But according to the above wiring diagram, it shows a starter wire?? So which one is it?? :-) Thanks! jim hunter wrote:
yes, fortunately for us gm hasnt changed the trailblazer in years except for no longer having a starter wire, this is in my opinion 1 of the easiest vehicles to do , everything easily accessible under dash ( even tach)
brake wire, park light wire and tach in thick harness running left to right under ignition harness molex
also i have never had to power up brown wire in this vehicle though i have read some posts that say they have
some cheapo units( hornet 569 or 570t)do not like tachless as when heater turns on it draws more voltage than module wnats and shuts down, so i always use a good quality unit and hooking up tach is therefore optional on this car
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 12:43 PM
like all new gms the starter wire is not used( the yellow may be there but serves no purpose) it starts by seeing ignition and accessory, then ignition staying and accessory dropping ( it starts very rapidly)
so, even if yellow wire is there it is not attached to, just insulate your starter output wire and make sure your accessory wire drops during crank
Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:35 PM
The starter wire will be there regardless, doesn't hurt to hook it up and it does get power when you cycle the key as well even though it isn't required. And yes tach is recommended the charging system usually doesn't kick in right away on this platform. The car will sit at 12.6 or whatever a few seconds longer than it should and some units will shut off thinking it didn't start. It's in the thick harness under running near the steering column, white wire. It will read about 6.5v AC with the vehicle running. And I've seen others say look for the wire that is silver when you strip it, but that is NOT the tach wire. It will be normal copper.
Mike
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:41 PM
Correct me if I'm wrong PLEASE!! I have never tested for a Tach wire...always just knew where to go. But for the test, I take my AC meter, put it on AC Volts, black to ground and red to the wire that I *think* is the Tach wire and it should read the 6.5v AC, is this correct?? Say I get the wrong wite wire...as the diagram above also shows a Ignition wire as a white wire, and apparently in the same harness...will it hurt anything if I hit the wrong white wire while probing for the Tach wire?? Thanks in advance for the help!! NowYaKnow wrote:
The starter wire will be there regardless, doesn't hurt to hook it up and it does get power when you cycle the key as well even though it isn't required. And yes tach is recommended the charging system usually doesn't kick in right away on this platform. The car will sit at 12.6 or whatever a few seconds longer than it should and some units will shut off thinking it didn't start. It's in the thick harness under running near the steering column, white wire. It will read about 6.5v AC with the vehicle running. And I've seen others say look for the wire that is silver when you strip it, but that is NOT the tach wire. It will be normal copper.
Mike
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:47 PM
Paul H, you have the correct procedure for probing for a tach wire. If you probe the wrong wire with a multimeter it won't hurt anything.
Posted By: f150fan
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:48 PM
Most tach wires will read between 1 and 6 volts ac. I believe that NowYaKnow is right that it will be around 6.5 volts ac. As far as how to test for that wire, you are correct. As far as mistaking the the ignition wire for the tach wire, the ignition wire should be 12guage and the tach wire should be a smaller guage, maybe around 18guage. Also the ignition wire will test as DC voltage not ac.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:58 PM
Thanks!! I was figuring it would be a smaller wire, but itnever hurts to ask!! And I know the IGN would be DC...my problem was making sure that if I probed the wrong wire in AC mode, that it wouldn't hurt anything!!! Thanks for the info!! f150fan wrote:
As far as mistaking the the ignition wire for the tach wire, the ignition wire should be 12guage and the tach wire should be a smaller guage, maybe around 18guage. Also the ignition wire will test as DC voltage not ac.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 9:46 PM
OK...well, gotta try this again!!! Everything went great!! Got the GM-SL2 hooked in with the RS-660, everything worked perfectly...EXCEPT the dang tach stuff. I got down in the wire loom and found 4 white wires. 1 was a 14ga. ignition wire and there was 3 small, 18/20ga wires...all went to the connector where the ignition/battery wires went into....separate sockets though. But I checked all 3 smaller wires and none of them would do anything on AC voltage. I did have it running and nothing on them. Is there somewhere else it might be or maybe another color?? I thought about just going straight to the injector and trying that, but ran out of time today. This is a base model Trailblazer, nothing special other than being a total electric, seats and all. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks again all!!!
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: March 05, 2007 at 7:42 AM
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............
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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: March 05, 2007 at 7:48 AM
brcidd wrote:
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............
I'll try that one next, Thanks. I assume it's on the end by the Tach?? Thanks again.
Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: March 05, 2007 at 9:16 AM
paul h wrote:
brcidd wrote:
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............
I'll try that one next, Thanks. I assume it's on the end by the Tach?? Thanks again.
There is only one white wire in the plug at the cluster on the saab/trailblazer/rainer/envoy it is the tach, but since you are new why not hook your meter up to it jsut so you can see what it look like and hove the level changes whn the mototrs rpm change -------------
Posted By: f150fan
Date Posted: March 05, 2007 at 9:02 PM
I usually just use voltage sensing mode with about a 1.2 second crank time. These have factory antigrind so you dont have to worry about grinding the starter. Even better it is one less wire to hook up.
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: March 05, 2007 at 10:00 PM
You have to watch out for those Trailblazers/Envoys etc-- they have a feature that when it is really cold out, that they delay allowing the alternator to work- allowing the engine to run for 10 seconds or so on battery power- have seen this three times in complaints where the owner said truck starts then shuts off- then tries again- always when very cold out- and when I had them set up on voltage sensing----the brain thinks it did not start due to the voltage not rising up fast enough---so I set all Trailblazers to Tach sensing. So if you are voltage sensing in a cold climate- you are asking for a comeback...just my experience. I had tested the above trucks many times before I let them go- but was unaware of the voltage delay feature.........
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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: f150fan
Date Posted: March 06, 2007 at 5:58 AM
What brand of remote starts are you using? My wife and my mom both have Trailblazers with remote starts as well as several of my customers. They are all set to voltage sense and I have not had a comeback on any of them.
Posted By: f150fan
Date Posted: March 06, 2007 at 6:00 AM
I forgot to mention, I generally use tach on every vehicle I do. This is pretty much the only vehicle that I use tachless on due to the factory antigrind.
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: March 06, 2007 at 9:06 AM
Has it been really cold- like 5 or 10 degF below? Believe me- The Trailblazer will wait to activate the alternator- to ease engine load on cold start-up- I first thought the owner's had bad alternators- until I read about it on the Trailblazer Forum- Below is the excerpt I read- It was related to people wondering why their voltage gages did not show proper voltages on cold starts......and the electrical devices speeding up after a while.....I have three people tell me this happened to them- starts- then stops all three tries- Once I go back to tach sensing- all is fine..........I will try to find something about it in the service manual...... Just heard thru the grape-vine that the voltage jump after a (very) cold startup is perfectly normal for the GMT360 chassis. Apparently, the PCM takes the alternator 'off-line' for 10-30sec to lessen the load on an extremely cold engine. This explains the ~10 to 14.4VDC jump you see on the dash gauge and see/hear from the dash lights and heater blower. Basically, you run on battery power alone for a few seconds after a stone cold startup. Here is what I have found so far from the Trailblazer service manual: When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, headlamps, cooling fan, heated seats, power seats, electric "AIR" pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled "ON", the generator's voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, additional torque is consumed by the generator. The engine computer (PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver.
------------- Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: f150fan
Date Posted: March 06, 2007 at 12:08 PM
It was ten degrees out this morning and my wifes worked just fine. It usually doesnt get much colder than that where I live so that may be why I havent had any problems.
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