Printer Friendly Forum Posts - compustar remote start, 95 accord

All,

I picked up a Compuster 3000A alarm remote start for my 95 honda accord. The dealer said it was 5speed compatible, but looking at the info, I'm not sure. Is the brain for the automatic compatible for the 5speed tranmission with a dip switch adjustment or something?

Thanks in advance.

There is a jumper wire under a panal on the back (I think it's on ths back) there is a green wire in there. if it is uncut, it's set for manual trans. CUT, is for automatic trans. It says this in the install manual.

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I saw something like that in the manual, but this "brain" doesn't have that wire. Could it be that Compustar has started making specific units for each transmision type? The installation manual says they it is "Manual transmission compatible" though.

Compustar has models that are manual and auto specific, we have them generally they will have a sticker on them that says automatic or manual. these ones have no green wire.

The manual I looked up on line says this brain HAS the wire.... If I am wrong......oops, sorry.

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Yep, this has an automatic sticker on it. It's weird why the manual says manual transmission compatable. So I guess if I tried to install it the alarm would work but not the remote start?

It will not work. It's doesn't have the programming option for the manual safety sequence in it.

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Thanks for everyone's help. I will have to send the unit back and get the correct one.

All,

I saw this advertised (Compustar 2W900FMAS-M) but I don't know if it is for a manual transmission. I've been burned before on one that was advertised for a 5spd but it wasn't. Does anyone have this same one for a manual?

Thanks in advance.

Don't buy it off the interweb....you'll get burned once again. Purchase product from an authorized dealer.

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^Good prices only comes from teh net these days. You should try it.

anyways, you should look for the brain model. cm3000-m or cm3000-a, a=AT and m=MT. i think thats how it is for the newer version of SS.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

To throw in my opinion (not that it was asked for posted_image

)....

If you are going to buy from an online retailer make absolutely sure that the retailer will warranty the unit for you. There are a ton of 'dealers' out there that break their agreements with the manufacturers by selling on the internet when they are not supposed to. Most of your better quality systems will not be warrantied by the manufacturer if it is not installed by an authorized dealer. If the retailer is giving you a written warranty saying that they will back up the product if you install it yourself then I say go for it. If they will not warranty the unit, I would look elsewhere.

There is nothing more aggravating as an 'authorized dealer' than having to jump through all the hoops the manufacturer requires you go through to sell their product to find it on the internet being sold at your cost.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

referencing to DIY,

I dont think any retailer out there will warranty the product. At least found two placed, BBuy and local authorized DEI retailer, that will not give you store warranty unless installed. That is common sense, because it gives protection for retailer.

In anyways, there is no warranty for units bought for DIY, unless you buy Autostart.

The warranty disclaimer for Autostart is diff from DEI, Compustar, and other company, where it doesnt EXPLICITLY state that you must have it installed by a professional. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I'd like to throw my opinion into the ring, I would recommend getting an Ultrastart 4560m alarm and remote start for manual trans because of the ease of installation. manual trans installs are hard to keep clean as it is, but ultra are nice and easy and have more usable features than most. good luck, and PROPERLY INSTALL! (ie park brake, door trigger and clutch bypass RELAY)

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My rifle is my friend...

I'm installing a Compustar CM3000 pager remote/start on my 1995 Honda Accord 5spd. I've connected all the wires and learned the tach and everything seemed to be OK. Tried to arm the car and it chirped 3 times and the parking lights flashed 3 times. The tach learning chirps once so that's OK. I've checked and rechecked the wire connections. I soldered the connections. I guess it's possible I don't have a wire or ground connected properly. When I try to remote start the car it chirps 3 times and then the parking lights flash 6 times. Does anyone know what the chirp 3 flash 3 means?

Thanks in advance

The 3 times when arming and 6 times when remote starting means that the hood pin switch is still seeing ground. Check your hood pin switch to ensure that it's not grounded and this will solve your problem.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Where should the wire be connected?

thanks

gray/black wire at the CN3 harness. Do not connect anywhere else.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hello. I have a 95 Accord LX 5spd and needed to know how I can tell what type of clutch it is? It's for a bypass and I'm just not sure what type I have.

Thanks

I think I remember the wire being PINK and it's a (+) type clutch bypass. You will need to test for this.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

There are 2 connectors. One grey and one yellow. If I unplug the yellow connector the car won't start with the clutch pressed in. Inside this connector, there is a BLACK/ blue wire and a blue/red wire. What Compustar wire would I connect to these wires to bypass the clutch?

Thanks

compint wrote:

There are 2 connectors. One grey and one yellow. If I unplug the yellow connector the car won't start with the clutch pressed in. Inside this connector, there is a BLACK/ blue wire and a blue/red wire. What Compustar wire would I connect to these wires to bypass the clutch?

Thanks

plug back in the yellow connector and unplug the grey connector. See if the car starts. if I remember right, the grey connector is for your cruise control switch. Test the wires on the yellow connector. One wire will be hot and one will be cold. Put your key in the ignition and press the clutch in with your hand. Test the 2 wires and see which wire changes when you hit the clutch in. If a wire turns (+) while you hit the clutch, then you will need to reverse the polarity on the status out wire from the compustar, or the starter out wire from the compustar. I've had good look with the starter out wire from the compustar.

Did you get your remote start working ?

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Still having trouble with the remote start. The Compustar status output wire is sending a signal to the relay I installed but the engine's not turning over and the relay's not clicking. As soon as I put a chasis ground on pin #85 of the relay it will click and the car will start when supposed to in the remote start sequence (reservation mode). Is it the brain? Is there another bypass I can connecto the relay I built. This is my first alarm install. Everything else is working just jot the remote start.

thanks for your help

compint wrote:

Still having trouble with the remote start. The Compustar status output wire is sending a signal to the relay I installed but the engine's not turning over and the relay's not clicking. As soon as I put a chasis ground on pin #85 of the relay it will click and the car will start when supposed to in the remote start sequence (reservation mode). Is it the brain? Is there another bypass I can connecto the relay I built. This is my first alarm install. Everything else is working just jot the remote start.

thanks for your help

If you need to give the clutch switch wire a (+) signal, pin 85 will go to your status out wire from the compustar. pin 30 and 86 will need a fused 12v(+) source, such as your 12v(+) constant wire that you used. pin 87 will be your (+) output to your clutch switch wire.
pin 87a is not used.

Use your RED / BLACK 2nd Starter output instead of your BLACK status output wire to trigger your relay.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Just use the starter wire from the compustar, and treat the clutch wire as the starter wire. When disarmed, the kill relay will close and the car will start with thekey, Hey Jeff, the ground while armed "stops" when the vehicle is remote started, does it NOT? After all, this is the trigger for the starter kill relay.

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Velocity Motors wrote:

Use your RED / BLACK 2nd Starter output instead of your BLACK status output wire to trigger your relay.

both will work fine, but the status out will kick in before the 2nd starter will.

Kar, when I tested the "ground when armed" with the car running, the wire didn't throw out a signal.

Kar, when I tested the "ground when armed" with the car running, the wire didn't throw out a signal.

Ground when armed, is different than ground when running.....

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KarTuneMan wrote:

Kar, when I tested the "ground when armed" with the car running, the wire didn't throw out a signal.

Ground when armed, is different than ground when running.....

I'll check friday, I'm installing a CM3000 in my friends' sisters honda accord.

STATUS OUTPUT wire comes on 1 second before the ignition turns on from the CM3000 and continues throughout until one second after ignition is OFF. The 2nd STARTER wire ( RED / BLACK ) will do what you need it to for the clutch bypass for starting. The clutch circuit for start only requires a momentary pulse during start to crank the engine over. Wire up a relay like so:

85: RED / BLACK 2nd Starter wire
86: YELLOW starter wire from CN1 harness
87: Jumper this wire to pin 86 ( YELLOW starter wire )
30: To (+) clutch activation wire on Accord
87a: NOT USED

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

STATUS OUTPUT wire comes on 1 second before the ignition turns on from the CM3000 and continues throughout until one second after ignition is OFF. The 2nd STARTER wire ( RED / BLACK ) will do what you need it to for the clutch bypass for starting. The clutch circuit for start only requires a momentary pulse during start to crank the engine over. Wire up a relay like so:

85: RED / BLACK 2nd Starter wire
86: YELLOW starter wire from CN1 harness
87: Jumper this wire to pin 86 ( YELLOW starter wire )
30: To (+) clutch activation wire on Accord
87a: NOT USED

I agree, it will work. There are many ways to give the clutch switch wire a (+) signal.

No need for second starter......use the main starter wire from the compustar, on the BLACK/ green at the clutch instead of the starter wire at the ignition harness. I have done MANY manual honda products......specially the older units. This is easy. The car has 1 ign, 1 accs, and 1 starter. NO additional outputs from the compustar are needed. you don't even need any extra relays......

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Problem with that method is that you bypass the clutch for start completly meaning that you don't have to press the clutch in to start. Good if you want it this way, but if you want to retain the fact that you have to press the clutch in , then you have to use a relay. Either way will work, just depends on your preference.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I hope you are wrong on permanetly bypassing the cluch with Kartunes method. I have been using that method also. I don't see how it would permanetly bypass the clutch by just using the yellow start wire from the remote start to trigger the hot side of the clutch switch to start during remote start. Myabe I am wrong but I hope not.

xtremej wrote:

I hope you are wrong on permanetly bypassing the cluch with Kartunes method. I have been using that method also. I don't see how it would permanetly bypass the clutch by just using the yellow start wire from the remote start to trigger the hot side of the clutch switch to start during remote start. Myabe I am wrong but I hope not.

This is just during the starting of the vehicle. Test this one time and jump in and wire it up directly to the starter wire to the (+) input clutch activation wire and you won't need to press the clutch in to start the vehicle. It's not a bad thing unless the person driving doesn't realize this.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

With the key.....you need to put the clutch down. With the remote start you do not. There is NO problem with this method. The clutch is NOT permanently bypassed. Think about it...... posted_image

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Read my post... I did not say that it will " permanently " bypass the clutch. You still will need to press the clutch when shifting but you will not need to press the clutch when starting because the (+) clutch activation wire is getting a (+) signal from the YELLOW start wire. Therefore you do not need to press the clutch anymore to start the vehicle because the YELLOW (+) starter output will now do this for you.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I think I see what your saying this is if the starter kill/anitgrind relay is used? posted_image

When you start the car with the key....there is NO output from the remote start starter wire, it hasn't been activated. The yellow wire from the remote start is controlled by an internal relay that is only triggered by remote start. If the internal relay is not triggered there is no voltage on the yellow starter wire. To start the car with the key, you need to push in the clutch. A second starter uotput (NEG)- for the clutch, instaed of the main starter wire wil doo the same thing....only differance....the relay is external.

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OK, I read through the posts and was able to get everything connected as described and viola, it worked!! Thanks for everyone's help!! Now, I just need to see if one of the 2nd ign. relays can be connected to a trunk release I picked up as well.

Thanks

An ignition "pulse" will not work for a trunk pop. There are other aux. outs that can be used.

Connector 3 pin4 purple and black. It's a negative output. Use this to pulse your relay after you install your popper.

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compint wrote:

OK, I read through the posts and was able to get everything connected as described and viola, it worked!! Thanks for everyone's help!! Now, I just need to see if one of the 2nd ign. relays can be connected to a trunk release I picked up as well.

Thanks

Yes, you can use that relay for your trunk solenoid. Use the BLUE wire for the (+) for the solenoid and the VIOLET goes to the (-) trigger from the CN4 harness.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

KarTuneMan wrote:

When you start the car with the key....there is NO output from the remote start starter wire, it hasn't been activated. The yellow wire from the remote start is controlled by an internal relay that is only triggered by remote start. If the internal relay is not triggered there is no voltage on the yellow starter wire. To start the car with the key, you need to push in the clutch. A second starter uotput (NEG)- for the clutch, instaed of the main starter wire wil doo the same thing....only differance....the relay is external.

Gary, I know what your talking about now with your moethod. I did not account that you do not use the starter disable/anti-grind relay in your installations. I always do regardless of if it's a manual or automatic transmission. This is where the difference is between the two methods that we spke of.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA