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05 tahoe tach wire at injector

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90654
Printed Date: May 11, 2025 at 8:16 PM


Topic: 05 tahoe tach wire at injector

Posted By: copout221
Subject: 05 tahoe tach wire at injector
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 10:43 AM

 I want to find tach sens at injector due to issues with the system not always starting on first attempt and I have read to go directly to an injector to possibly correct the prob. Tech manual states "For tach can also go to any of the ignition coils or fuel injectors and use the wire that is NOT pink, black, or brown" BUT the wires at the injectors are pink and black. WHICH WIRE DO I USE ??  This is on a 2005 Tahoe with Viper 5900 and 1700g bypass. Thanks

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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!



Replies:

Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 10:46 AM
Go to the odd colored injector wire. The best place I have found for the tach is the white behind the cluster.

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 10:54 AM
What do you mean by ODD colored wire ? I was connected to the white behind the cluster and wanted to try this out for troubleshooting. Each injector has two wires and they are pink and black. I don't have a meter that does AC so I cannot test them.

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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: warpedimage3
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 10:57 AM
Tachometer white  ac  instrument cluster, pin A5 or PCM
Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in the left front of the engine compartment to the left of the fan shroud. The tach wire is in the green plug, pin 10.

For tach can also go to any of the ignition coils or fuel injectors and use the wire that is NOT pink, black, or brown.

Just get it at the instrument cluster like hymer said





Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 11:00 AM
Each of the injectors has 2 wires on it, One wire will be a common color on each of them. The white behind the cluster should work for that RS unit, you may need to set the tach threshold lower [or re-learn the tach] under a lower rpm idle. I think it sends about 800 rmp equivilent to the tach wire, then when it is colder or whatever I have seen them drop as low as 650. so re-learn the tach when it is cold out and warm the engine before you do this. that will ensure you learning a "warm idle condition" [lower RPM]

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 11:01 AM
 Ok. I will go back to the white wire. Hopefully I can figure out what is causing this problem. Thanks

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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 1:48 PM

Does the car not start in extreme cold weather -- is that when the Tahoe is having remote start problems on the first try?

I'm having similar issues on a 1997 Maxima, and I'm thinking now that since I'm using Tach sensing mode w/ the wire connected to the ECM tach signial -- perhaps I should just go straight to an injector wire.



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 2:11 PM
OK, this may open me up for some flaming, but I will say it anyway. Using the DEI product(I am sure it is true of other brands too but I can only speak of DEI) your truck does not need a tach wire connection. Set your unit for voltage sensing, set the voltage sensing to low (options 3-2 and 3-6) and set your crank time (option 3-5) to two seconds. Your truck's computer will prevent the starter from over cranking.

Yes, on MOST vehicles the tachometer is the best way to go, but with your truck the vehicle takes over.

To the Nissan reference, you should be using a tachometer connection or injector...but to not starting in extreme cold..did you hook up both starter wires?

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: dcman41
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 3:07 PM
heres how you check, look at the injector wire on each injector there will be one of the same colors. Say each injector has a black(common) youll want to use the wire that changes color(s) on every injector. Hope that helps




Posted By: dcman41
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 3:17 PM
peterubers as for your maxima, it is not the remote start i am a maxima enthusiast and know everything about them. The problem your having is motor related. start by cleaning your throttle body, and changing the engine coolant temperature sensor. Or bring it to the dealer i repeat it is not a problem with the remote start. This is the most common problems on a 95~99 maxima. All that is required to fix it is a bit of basic maitenance.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:11 PM

DCman -- you ARE the man .. i've been pulling my hair for weeks trying to figure this one out .. luckily the customer is my g/f and she's very understanding .. will do what you've said -- was about to get a new STARTER (i.e. OEM nissan starter) and install it myself .. you saved me getting under the car to do annoying work.



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:21 PM

Twelvoltz wrote:

OK, this may open me up for some flaming, but I will say it anyway. Using the DEI product(I am sure it is true of other brands too but I can only speak of DEI) your truck does not need a tach wire connection. Set your unit for voltage sensing, set the voltage sensing to low (options 3-2 and 3-6) and set your crank time (option 3-5) to two seconds. Your truck's computer will prevent the starter from over cranking.

Yes, on MOST vehicles the tachometer is the best way to go, but with your truck the vehicle takes over.

To the Nissan reference, you should be using a tachometer connection or injector...but to not starting in extreme cold..did you hook up both starter wires?

Thanks Twelvoltz. I have never been a fan of voltage sensing but I will give it a try. Just FYI the truck refuses to start on first attempt regardless if it is cold or warm. I would say it only occurs 1 out of 10 times you start it but the customer is not that patient waiting for us to fix it. I will update this post after I try what you suggest.



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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:25 PM
Twelvoltz wrote:

OK, this may open me up for some flaming, but I will say it anyway. Using the DEI product(I am sure it is true of other brands too but I can only speak of DEI) your truck does not need a tach wire connection. Set your unit for voltage sensing, set the voltage sensing to low (options 3-2 and 3-6) and set your crank time (option 3-5) to two seconds. Your truck's computer will prevent the starter from over cranking.

Yes, on MOST vehicles the tachometer is the best way to go, but with your truck the vehicle takes over.

To the Nissan reference, you should be using a tachometer connection or injector...but to not starting in extreme cold..did you hook up both starter wires?


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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:31 PM

No good. Tried everything suggested and truck doesn't want to keep running on first attempt (warm or cold starts). I have switched tach wires, reprogrammed numerous times, tried voltage sense with extended crank time, re-grounded module, and disabled engine monitoring. No dice. Cust in wizED and I don't know what to tell him. I thougt it could be a  bad 1700G but the security light is not doing anything unexpected after remote starting. Any other suggestions ?? DEI tech cannot provide me with any answers other than it is the trucks fault, not their product !!!

Hopefully the customer will deal with the issue since I installed remote seat recall, heated seat activation, and rear defrost for no charge off channels 2,4, and 5.



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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:45 PM
What is the idle speed RPM of the truck? Is there any codes poping? I never have had a problem with any chev trucks giving me a tough time..

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:48 PM

I don't have access to our bitwriter right now. Idle is around 800 - 1k RPM



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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:59 PM
That should be more than adequate for an rs to see th truck is running on the 1st attempt. This may sound like a dumb idea, but have you tried running a new tach wire to the brain? Or at least ohming it out to see if there is a high resistance or mabey a kink or knick in the wire?

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 5:06 PM

Hymer] wrote:

hat should be more than adequate for an rs to see th truck is running on the 1st attempt. This may sound like a dumb idea, but have you tried running a new tach wire to the brain? Or at least ohming it out to see if there is a high resistance or mabey a kink or knick in the wire?

No, I have never had something like that cause a problem but it cannot hurt to try that. What about the keysense wire on the 1700G. I was told NOT to connect it but do you think that could be part of the problem? I had read in several forums that connecting this wire was causing issues with full size GM trucks so I did not connect it.



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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 20, 2007 at 5:19 PM
I don't use the 1700g or have I ever, but I don' connect a keysense wire at all, unless doing an alarm. I always use the gmdlp or gmbp for those trucks...

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: March 12, 2007 at 12:54 PM
UPDATE: Removed the 1700G and replace it with a new XK01 from Bypasskit / Trilogix. Truck is still not starting on first attempt but will always fire up on second attempt. I am totally stumped by this. I have even tried wiring a relay in from the GWR to trip the bypass with a solid ground signal from the chassis with no luck. It does this in voltage sensing also !!! Any other ideas ? I am starting to think the 5900 brain may have a problem. My next option is to program the wait to start option which seems to work at the factory 15 second setting. Maybe I can use a bitwriter to program the wait to start to 5 seconds and there will be a short delay before the R/S kicks in.

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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!




Posted By: docsautomotive
Date Posted: April 05, 2007 at 11:18 PM

when you press  the r/s button how fast does the brain respond



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never stop




Posted By: copout221
Date Posted: April 06, 2007 at 1:26 AM
docsautomotive wrote:

when you press  the r/s button how fast does the brain respond


Brain responds immediately. To solve this problem I was forced to program the wait to start to one second. After doing this it has not failed to start on the first attempt again. Basically, the GWS output was activating at the same time the ignition was being triggered. This was not always allowing the passlock to deactivate which caused the truck not to start on some first attempts. However, if the ignition is activated for at least one second before the starter is enabled the factory security has enough time to deactivate which allows the truck to start. I also found that even if the GWS wire is grounded BEFORE the ignition is activated the truck still did not start on the first attempt. All it took was to have the ignition activated a bit longer than the module did without the delay programmed. You need a bitwriter to do this on a DEI RS or the wait to start is factory set at 15 seconds.



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Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!





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