2005 dodge ram remote start a/c problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90806
Printed Date: May 06, 2024 at 7:32 AM
Topic: 2005 dodge ram remote start a/c problem
Posted By: lollonais
Subject: 2005 dodge ram remote start a/c problem
Date Posted: February 22, 2007 at 10:29 AM
I have searched for this in this site, but most are closed. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram and bought an Alarm from an ebay site. Before you guys rip me for buying an ebay alarm, let me say that the alarm works fine except for the A/C. The first time I installed it everything was fine, the A/C worked fine when doing remote start. But then, one day it stopped working when I did the remote start. I opened up the alarm unit and there was a strip of metal on the board that was burned off. I called the ebay guy and he explained that I had to use a relay. Fine, I installed the relay and soldered a new strip of metal. Again it was working fine. Within a week, it stopped working again. I opened it again and again it was burned off. I had read here before that you have to add fuses to ACC connections, but when I mentioned this to the ebay guy, he told that they are built in the board. I think he doesnt know what he is talking about. Can you guys clarify this for me? I saw in a closed topic that you add a 15amp fuse to the 12volt and to the ACC from the alarm. Is this right? Thanks again.
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: February 22, 2007 at 10:36 AM
What is the exact make/model of the system. Does it offer a low current negative accessory output?
If the trace on the board burnt up after the relay was installed then the relay was not installed properly. The purpose of the relay is to handle the heavy load required and take the strain off of the system brain.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: lollonais
Date Posted: February 22, 2007 at 11:37 AM
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: February 22, 2007 at 12:54 PM
OK, to correctly wire the relay:
Pin 85: Ground
Pin 86: C1-3 Blue/White (RS accessory output +)
Pin 30: Constant Fused +12V (20amp fuse at least 12ga wire)
Pin 87: Out to vehicle Accessory wire (at least 12ga wire)
The output from the RS would then only be powering a relay, not the actual accessory circuit.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: lollonais
Date Posted: February 22, 2007 at 1:34 PM
Thanks man. I'll try it this weekend.
Posted By: lollonais
Date Posted: February 26, 2007 at 2:04 PM
Twelvoltz, Is it normal for the relay to get warm? Also, I had to solder another strip of metal, this time covered with heat protection. The ends that where soldered into the board where warm also. Is this also normal? I know there is power going through, but how much is enough before it burns again? Everything works fine now. I checked the connections you sent me and compared with the ebay guy and there were some differences. His for one, was not grounded and did not have a fuse going through from the 12 volt source to the relay. PS- when I went to remove the board to seal it, i touched the onboard relays and they were also warm. I guess its normal. This is after I left the remote start on for 10 minutes with the A/C on. Thanks again.
Posted By: Hymer
Date Posted: February 26, 2007 at 4:34 PM
If your burning the trace on the board, then there is somehing wrong, probably a dead short or a chunk of suff somewhere on it causing the short, solder a peice of wire from one end of the run to the other, then cut out the bad run.. The relays shouldnt really be getting that warm, unless they are pulling too much. a standard automotive relay really shouldn't get warm. but the onboard ones I could see. If your torching traces on the board, then hey are probably pretty little relays, and a poor quality unit...
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