2005 toyota camry remote start/door locks

Hello all,

I used to be a car stereo installer a while back (just for a short time). I'm for the most part a hobbyist... and in my brief experience I did only basic alarms on basic domestic cars.

Anyhow I'm wanting to install my remote start alarm into my 2005 Toyota Camry. I do not have the transponder key set (99.9% sure). I don't have access to DEI's resources and so I'm going off of an old set of PDF wiring guides I purchased a couple of years back.

My question(s) are:

1. As I best understand it, the taps for the door lock are as follows:

Power Lock: [Blue / YELLOW (-)] Driver's Kick Panel
Power Unlock: [Blue (-)] Driver's Kick Panel

...And the unlock requires a double pulse. Does anyone know of a good ready-made universal double pulse module, or am I stuck building my own?

My alarm has negative lock outputs, so I should be able to just tap into these wires directly with no issues?



2. I also believe that this car has 2 ignition wires in addition to the starter and accessory wires as follows:

Starter (BLACK/ White)
Accessory (Blue)
Ignition #1(BLACK/ Red)
Ignition #2(BLACK / YELLOW)

My alarm (Marksman M11A) has separate Ignition 1, 2, starter and accessory output wires, so I should just be able to wire these in directly without any trouble?

I'm planning on using the voltage sense feature on the marksman for the remote start timing.

Does your remote start have a double-pulse option in the programming?

Also, you can wire up the ignitions just the way you explained.

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Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

I assume you mean the alarm having a double-pulse option for the door lock unit? In this case, I do not believe it has an integrated double pulse option.

And thanks for some confirmation on the ignition wiring.

Aside from the double-pulse unlock mechanism, are those the correct wires to tap?

The reason I'm questioning it is because I was under the impression that almost all Toyotas, Nissans, and Hondas used the more complex 3 and 5 wire door lock systems. I suppose that this is not the case after all?

LOCK	Blue / YELLOW	In driver's kickpanel	-
BLUE / YELLOW is located in a 13-pin blue connector and BLUE is located in a 20-pin white connector. (See the photo).
UNLOCK	Blue (double pulse)	In driver's kickpanel	-
BLUE / YELLOW is located in a 13-pin blue connector and BLUE is located in a 20-pin white connector. (See the photo).

You have the correct wires for your locks....hard to imagine NOT having a programming option for double pulse. Maybe read again?

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I checked the manual just now. As best I can understand it from reading the programming section, it is factory defaulted to a "double step unlock" feature - I guess meaning that it allows for the user to program a driver's door first unlock system...

https://www.magnadyne.com/MagPublic/Pictures/M11A_IM.pdf

(A link to the install manual PDF file)

I believe the double pulse means that the first pulse "wakes up" the car and that the second door unlock pulse unlocks the car. If I have to press the unlock button twice to get the doors unlocked - oh well, it's not a big deal to me.

I appreciate all of the responses a lot fellas, thanks.

The double pulse unlock option is listed in the manual, page 18. Option programming using button one on the transmitter, three chirp setting, "Double pulse unlock". You would need to turn that feature on. There is no need to use the second unlock output from the brain unless you wanted to retain driver's door priority unlocking.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Wow! I must be going blind...

Thanks a whole lot for taking the time to look at that, I really appreciate all of the input and assistance. Thanks a lot to everyone.

QUESTION AGAIN:

Door Locks...

I did some browsing around the forumn and came across this thread:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=52070&KW=2005+camry

I copied and pasted the diagram below that someone said came directly from DEI... In it you can see it mentions the door lock motor and the 5 wire relay set. The diagram I got just insisted that wiring directly to the door lock wires was all that was necessary and the calamity of the 5 wire relay setup is not mentioned in it.

Anyone know if the 5 wire relay set is in fact necessary? If it is: I've heard of some bad experiences people have had with those - shorting out door lock control units and ECU's...


DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / CAMRY / 2005 / Remote Start

12volts WHITE/ red (30A), white (5A)   +   ignition harness
Starter BLACK/ white   +   ignition harness
Second Starter BLACK / YELLOW   +   ignition harness
Ignition BLACK/ red   +   ignition harness
Second Ignition BLACK / YELLOW   +   ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A       
Accessory blue/red   +   ignition harness
Second Accessory N/A       
Keysense blue   -   ign harn or BECU, top plug, pin 19
Notes: Using the status output to trigger this wire during remote start will disarm the alarm without unlocking the doors.

The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.


Power Lock blue / YELLOW   -   DKP or bottom of fusebox, 20 pin plg
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock blue (double pulse)   -   DKP or BECU, top plug, pin 22
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.

Can also use the passenger door key cylinder unlock wire, which only requires a single pulse. It is blue/white (-) in the BECU, top plug, pin 21.
Lock Motor blue/red   5wi DKP or bottom of fusebox, 13 pin plg
Unlock Motor blue/black   5wi DKP or BECU, bottom plug, pin 11
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Parking Lights+ green   +   DKP or bottom of fusebox, 20 pin plg
Parking Lights- red   -   switch or BECU, top plug, pin 8
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Hazards lt. GREEN/ black   -   switch or BECU, middle plug, pin 10
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Turn Signal(L) GREEN / WHITE   +   turn signal flasher relay in DKP
Turn Signal(R) GREEN/ YELLOW   +   turn signal flasher relay in DKP
Reverse Light RED / black   +   DKP or bottom of fusebox, 20 pin plg
Door Trigger see notes   -   see notes
Notes: The LF door is RED / green in the BECU, bottom plug, pin 1. The RF door is RED / green in the BECU, top plug, pin 11. The rear doors are RED / white in the bottom of the fuse box, 20 pin plug, pin 7. Use all three wires and diode isolate each.

The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Dome Supervision GREEN/ red   -   ignition key cylinder light
Trunk/Hatch Pin green   -   DKP or BECU, bottom plug, pin 6
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Hood Pin black   -   theft deterrent ECU behind glovebox
Trunk/Hatch Release WHITE/ blue   5wi DKP or BECU, bottom plug, pin 12
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. The plugs for the BECU are on the left side edge.
Power Sliding Door N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock       
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock       
Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire       
Tachometer BLACK/ orange   ac   ECM behind glovebox
Notes: On the 4 cylinder models, it is in the 2nd plug from the top, pin 1. On the 6 cylinder models, it is in the top plug, pin 5.

Can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT BLACK/ red, WHITE/ red, or WHITE/ black.
Wait to start N/A       
Brake Wire GREEN / WHITE   +   sw or bottom of fusebox, 20 pin plug
Parking Brake RED / white   -   parking brake switch
Horn Trigger GREEN/ black   -   sw or bottom of fusebox, 24 pin plug
Memory Seat 1 N/A       
Memory Seat 2 N/A       
Memory Seat 3 N/A       
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556U or 555U
Notes: Standard on the LE V6, SE V6, and XLE models.



       
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

The doorlocks on your car are easy, no 5 wire needed just hook up and program a double pulse for unlock. The only thing that is 5-wire or reverse polarity is the trunk release if you have a power trunk release.

Thanks for the replies.


The one thing I'm now a bit concerned about is the remote start.

1. After reading the DEI chart, I see a listing for the key-sense wire. For the remote start to work, will I need to connect that to one of leads of the alarm that is grounded while unarmed?


2. I was very sure I didn't have the transponder key set, but after seeing some posts on here, I do have a Camry LE. According to the DEI chart LE models come standard with the transponder security set. I'm currently at work 'til pretty late so I can't test it yet, but I have a plain-jane looking "valet" key I was given along with my 2 regular keys (which have molded black ends that probably could house an RF chip, but look just like any other regular key). I was told the valet key opens the car and drives it but will not allow access to the trunk or the glove compartment if they are locked. I've never confirmed this since I don't exactly frequent places with valet service! Do ya'll think I still need a universal bypass module?

Also, the valet key I have is just a basic metal key - definitely no RF chip integrated into it.

If the key with no plastic on it starts the car then you do not have a transponder.

Yes you need to hook up the keysense. You would use the status output to the keysense to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

For the keysense wire, I am thinking of using a lead off of my alarm that "provides a 200mA (-) ground output that becomes active within 4 seconds before the remote start unit initializes and remains grounded while running."

I should just be able to hook that up directly to the keysense lead on the ignition harness, right?

Sorry for all of the questions - I really can't afford to fry my ignition system, ECU, BECU, DLCU, or otherwise...

--Only the V6 version of the LE gets the transponder. If you have a 4-cylinder, no transponder to worry about.

--Only the XLE (4 or 6) gets the factory-installed alarm. Your LE won't have an alarm, unless you bought the dealer-installed Toyota VIP (Vehicle Intrustion Protection) alarm.

Therefore, you don't need to worry about the keysense wire at all.

--All this talk about double-pulse unlock. It's not really "double-pulse." The tech sheet writer should take the time to give a better explanation.

One pulse on the blue wire unlocks only the driver's door, and also turns on the interior light (as long as the car isn't running).

A second pulse within a short period of time unlocks the passenger doors.

I'm not familiar with Marksman product. Did you say it has two separate unlock outputs? A "first unlock" and "second unlock" or something like that?

If so, just connect BOTH unlock outputs from the Marksman, to the Toyota's blue, and you'll have driver's-priority unlocking, just like from the factory.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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--Only the V6 version of the LE gets the transponder. If you have a 4-cylinder, no transponder to worry about.

--Only the XLE (4 or 6) gets the factory-installed alarm. Your LE won't have an alarm, unless you bought the dealer-installed Toyota VIP (Vehicle Intrustion Protection) alarm.

Therefore, you don't need to worry about the keysense wire at all.

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Ah, I see... I do have the 4 banger, so no need to worry about the transponder. I was under the impression that the keysense wire detected that the key was in the ignition (and activated the ever-annoying dinging relay) and that jap cars had to have a key actually in the ignition to start, or at least think they did. So the keysense wire is actually just part of a transponder kit, if so equipped? Thanks a lot for that information and for the clarification on the door lock mechanisms. Also, another big thank you to everyone who's been willing to answer my questions - I greatly appreciate it.

Hello everyone,

Tomorrow I'm going to install my alarm into my 2005 Camry (4 banger, no transponder). However, I DO have a FACTORY INSTALLED ALARM - Hood pin, trunk pin, valet switches, and I'm guessing a starter immobilizer. The factory alarm is supposed to disarm with unlock, and arm with lock. So, I see this as being a problem if I'm trying to remote start with the doors locked.

Now, I'm pretty "green" when it comes to installing alarms.

Questions:

1. Can I use the car's dome light supervision as the door trigger? I know this varies in certain vehicles and I'm curious to know if anyone is aware of any trouble or problems with using dome light supervision in place of the door trigger? (I'm trying to avoid finding, tapping, and diode isolating 3 different wires for the door pins)

2. What do I do with the keysense wire? Since I have a factory alarm but I do not have the transponder security system, do I need to connect the keysense wire to my alarm's wire which is a grounded output on remote start?

Any help will be more than appreciated. Thanks to everyone in advance!

Thank you very much for your quick reply. I greatly appreciate it.

Using the wire that goes to the ignition key cylinder light will work fine for your door triggers. It is GREEN/ red. It is always ON whenever a door is open, and it immediately goes out when you lock the car.

Are you sure you have a factory installed alarm, and not a dealer installed alarm? A factory installed alarm does not have a valet switch.

That most likely isn't a factory alarm.

Only the XLE gets a factory-installed alarm, and that model has the transponder too.

Toyota offers their "VIP" dealer-installed alarm that can be bought separately, but it doesn't have a valet switch.

Most likely, it's an aftermarket.

You could install a remote starter on top of an aftermarket alarm, but it's more hassle and may not be worth it.

You'll need to prevent the aftermarket alarm from "seeing" ignition power when the remote starter is on......some remote starters have a special output for this; some don't and you need to wire up a relay.

Also, the alarm's shock sensor will be triggered by the vibration of the car's engine when the remote starter is on........two more relays to take care of that, or you might opt to just turn the sensor down or unplug it.

P.S.

You mentioned hoodpin, and valet switches (plural)? Did you buy the car new or used?

A typical car alarm has only one valet switch. Also, while you COULD install a hoodpin for extra security on a basic alarm, most of the time that doesn't happen.

Seeing two separate switches, as well as a hoodpin, points to the possiblity that the car already has a remote starter installed.

What do the switches look like? Are they toggles that move back and forth, or pushbuttons?   What to the remotes look like? Do they have a name (or even a phone number) printed on the back? Do you see an antenna stuck onto the windshield glass?

Sorry for my typo with valet "switches." It is a single valet switch/alarm LED. I've never seen anything quite like it, but it is a plastic switch that has an LED integrated into it.

I'm green, but not that bad fellas...

It is a factory or dealer installed alarm (yes, it's a Toyota alarm). I bought the car brand new - and it most certainly DOES NOT have a remote starter or the ability to add one on.

Thank you for mentioning the shock sensor etc. on it.

I never really thought about that... but the shock sensor is not sensitive at all from having seen neighborhood idiot kids hit it with footballs before while the alarm was armed. It is a "glass breaking sensor, it's not very sensitive at all," according to the dealership salesman (the same guy that tried to convince me that the spoiler, weak ass %35 tint, and the painted mirrors on the LE vs. the plain "ugly black ones" on the base model increased my future car's value by $3000 over the base model !)

J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

Hey guys, there is a second ignition and a second starter wire. There are two separe wires in the ignition harness, and both of them are the exact same color and are listed separately on the diretchwire chart.

I assume that if the manufacturer wanted them to be one and the same, that they would have been wired together and jumpered @ the pigtail harness. Do I need to wire these separately?

Thanks a lot guys.

By the way, I disconnected the factory alarm. It had an in-line harness to the ignition harness which I disconnected as well as removed the fuse holder from the factory alarm. I don't think the factory alarm will cause any further issues with the install now.

baseem wrote:

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J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

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It shouldn't. I've done a couple Camry's using that wire and I never had a problem. I was using DEI product at the time. The light shuts off immediately which is why there is not a problem.

baseem wrote:

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J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

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Depends on the brand of alarm you're installing. Many late-model alarms also have some method of "teaching" the delay time to the alarm, or turning off the open-door warning altogether.

baseem wrote:

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Hey guys, there is a second ignition and a second starter wire. There are two separe wires in the ignition harness, and both of them are the exact same color and are listed separately on the diretchwire chart.

I assume that if the manufacturer wanted them to be one and the same, that they would have been wired together and jumpered @ the pigtail harness. Do I need to wire these separately?

Thanks a lot guys.

By the way, I disconnected the factory alarm. It had an in-line harness to the ignition harness which I disconnected as well as removed the fuse holder from the factory alarm. I don't think the factory alarm will cause any further issues with the install now.

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1. Yes, definitely two separate wires.

The car needs to have both ignitions powered up, as well as both starter wires. You can get away with jumping the car's two starter wires together, but it is considered improper, and it would be better to trigger the second-starter wire separately with a relay.

2. The Toyota dealer-installed alarms I've seen, have a small panel installed with the LED and the glass-break sensor's microphone. Haven't seen an LED with a built-in pushbutton on a Toyota. Do you have any paperwork with the alarm? Is it called VIP3000 or VIP3200 or something like that?

As I recall, Toyota factory alarms don't get a shock sensor. The costlier 3200 does get the glass-break sensor, but that shouldn't be triggered by the remote starter.

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If it were my car, I'd probably leave the factory alarm in place---two would be better than one.

Here are a couple of quick tests you can make:

First, familiarize yourself with the factory alarm LED and how it operates.

When you lock the car, the LED should come on solid for 30 seconds......this indicates that the alarm is arming. (It isn't armed yet.) After 30 seconds, the LED will begin to flash; the alarm is now armed.

Here's what you want to do.

For the moment, forget the factory remote; don't touch it.

1. If you close all the doors, hood, and trunk, and use the KEY to lock the cars doors from the OUTSIDE, does the alarm arm?

2. If you use the KEY to unlock the doors from the OUTSIDE, does the alarm disarm?

3. If you sit inside the car, close everything, arm the alarm with the remote (and wait 30 seconds).........insert the key in the ignition and start the car......does the alarm automatically turn off?

---If 1 and 2 are true, then your blue / YELLOW and blue wires will also arm/disarm the factory alarm whenever you use the aftermarket remote.

---If 3 is true, connecting a "ground-when-running" output from the remote start, to the car's keysense wire, will disarm the factory alarm when remote starting.

Hello everyone,

I know this is about my millionth question regarding my Camry's alarm... but here it goes:

I installed the alarm today. Everything was going pretty well except when I got the second starter wire. I knew I shouldn't just "jump" across from the second starter wire to the main starter wire, so... I did what I thought be "OK" and cut the second starter wire and soldered a diode in-line. Then, I connected a jumper wire between the starter wire and the second starter wire on the anode side of the diode.

Car still started fine and I was about to finish the door triggers and lock wires, but then I noticed that the airbag light was on when the car was started. Of course, knowing of the horror stories of airbag system gone awry on alarm installs, I was panicked. Tried a bunch of troubleshooting and wound up just putting everything completely back to stock, including removing the in-line diode I had put on the second starter wire. Everything was good-to-go after that.

So I'm guessing that the diode must add some weird resistance to the line that the ECU (I presume what the second starter wire comes from) doesn't like. Anyone know for sure?

I was far too nervous to continue after that episode, so I must HAVE to relay this second starter wire?

Any advice would be helpful, and as always, I appreciate everyone's input and assistance.

You must use a relay for second starter. Jumping the wire will cause the AM1 fuse to blow over time(i've seen it take months before it goes). As for the airbag, my guess is something else lit it other than the starter wire. On Toyotas, simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the light.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services