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viper 791 1992 ford explorer not starting

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=91263
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 3:54 AM


Topic: viper 791 1992 ford explorer not starting

Posted By: slinky85
Subject: viper 791 1992 ford explorer not starting
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 5:01 PM

What connections need to be made to get my friends 92 explorer to remote start?  I get the ignition to turn on, and the fuel pump energizes, then it all shuts off.  this is w/ door closed in park.  The module can flash lights, chirp, and lock/unlock, if that helps.  I checked the fuses.

What needs to be hooked up as far as sensor inputs? I have the following...

Neutral safety, grounded (car has its own interrupt circuit)
Brake shut down, +, when pressed open when not pressed (light green @ switch)
I left the hood pin out (open circuit) for now
Parking lights, + Brown wire
Door trigger, + when open (black / Lt. blue)
+12v to +12v, ground wire to ground

I am pretty sure I did the ignition harness right. 

thanks




Replies:

Posted By: master5
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 5:04 PM

Program the tach...or program the brain for voltage sense if not using the tach input. The dei unit is default for tach and it won't work until you do either step listed.

Good Luck



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Posted By: slinky85
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 5:29 PM

So it will just shut down like i had described?  or how does it act w/o the tach hooked up not on voltage sense?  I would check the car but its like 30 minutes away right now.

thanks for the quick reply





Posted By: master5
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 6:55 PM

Correct. As you describe the problem I can really see no other reason. If it was any of the shutdowns you would get no response to RS at all. That vehicle does not use any kind of factory immobilizer so thats out. The only other options are the start wire is hooked up wrong or poorly connected (I would think it safe to assume you double checked all that with a meter) or a bad unit...which is highly doubtful with DEI..they just are one of those brands that work out of the box 99.9% of the time if installed/programmed correctly.

Basically the system is showing response by powering up ignition and flashing the lights, but it won't crank it. As stated the unit comes out of the box default for tach...so..if you didn't program the tach (simply start the truck with the key...press and hold the valet until the led lights up.let off valet..turn key off...try remote start)...or ,program the unit for tachless if you didn't hook up the tach wire you would need to do one of those regardless before any further troubleshooting...but my money is on what I stated and it should crank once this is done.

The unit does not crank the starter unless one of those procedures is done...just the way DEI designs them..a failsafe way to make sure the installer has followed procedure.

Let us know if it starts after doing one of those procedures.



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Posted By: slinky85
Date Posted: March 04, 2007 at 7:22 PM
Thanks, will do, probably late tuesday... busy till then.




Posted By: slinky85
Date Posted: March 07, 2007 at 9:57 PM
Ok... I hooked up the tach, and the same thing still happened. I Hot-wired the car using the relay satellite to check my connections and it works. (1st touch reds to pink, wait, then pink and reds to purple momentarily). i then used a test light and found that the Purple starter wire gets power during the remote start momentarily before it all shuts down. What is happening? The Tach wire i tapped reads ~6v AC when running.
Can someone provide a list of the necessary input connections and their expected values for a remote start? (ie. positive/negative/normally open)

Also for the door locks, The explorer used +12v to trigger the locks, do i need to use diodes on the viper outputs? are the viper outputs normally open?

Thanks




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: March 08, 2007 at 11:21 AM

Did you program the tach sense??  IF not..read the directions and do so..if it still doesn't work..get back and we can figure it out.

If your explorer came from the factory with keyless entry then correct ..the doorlocks are positive. The dei module can power it..the outputs are negative and positive and requires no programming.

If it is a non keyless optioned truck you will need to do a "5 wire" relay circuit for the locks to work.

If you are not sure if keyless is in your truck because you have no remote with it you can check behind the left rear panel for the keyless module..if you have a factory remote then its definatly a keyless version.



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Posted By: slinky85
Date Posted: March 08, 2007 at 5:38 PM

Ohhhhhhhhh, im a terrible reader... have to program tach sense first.  got it, then given that i didnt screw anything else up... should be peachy right?

On the viper i noticed one wire is  +(unlock) - (lock)  and vice versa for the other... no need to diode isolate the neg signals?

thanks for your answers and patience

If i have problems, you should know by sunday afternoon.  hopefully earlier.





Posted By: master5
Date Posted: March 08, 2007 at 6:19 PM

Yes..it "should" work fine once you program the tach..but if it doesn't..you needed to take that step first regardless since that unit does not remote start until it is programmed.

The DEI doorlock outputs switch neg. and pos.  This is so you can use them with neg or pos doorlock equipped vehicles///no diodes are needed since these type of vehicles use factory relays..so lets say for example the vehicle has pos controlled doorlock..that means the other side of the relay coil is neg. so when the doorlock output sends a positive to the lock relay..the doors lock. when you press unlock the same happens for unlocking..but at the same time the lock wire will then be sending a neg. to the lock relay..but it has no effect since the other side of the relay coil in this case is already negative. Vice-versa during lock. The worst you can screw up is switch the wires (a 50/50 shot)..then the locks work backwards when you press the remote...but no biggie...just switch the wires back again and they work fine.

Now..if the vehicle has no factory relays..the locks work by the factory switchs themselves reversing the polarity to the actuators..a heavy duty switch with thicker wires is a tale tell..not to mention there will be 5 wires at the switch instead of 3.

also note on your particular vehicle if it came with factory keyless entry (you will have a factory remote)it has factory relays and you can use the outputs directly..it is positve "3 wire"..typically on fords is a pink / YELLOW  and pink/green.

In that case you must use 2 relays and configure them for a "5 wire"..or aka "reversing polarity" configuration.



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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: March 08, 2007 at 6:23 PM
oops..on the last sentence it should say if you DON"T have factory keyless entry..in that case you will use relays.

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Posted By: slinky85
Date Posted: March 11, 2007 at 4:07 PM

Ok, I got the locks to work fine with the 2 relays.  The starter is still playing mind games.  I programmed the tach wire.  nothing.  Shutdown diagnostics showed no rpm/tach signal, probably because the starter never turned.  From the satellite relay harness if i jump red to pink ignition turns on, then jump red+ping to purple i can hotwire the car.  This eliminates ignition wiring problems i hope. 

Next, I programmed the brain for no voltage/no tach, just timed.  It is on default timed operation, the purple wire shows 12v for a short period of time, but no starter crank.

Any ideas?
Any questions?

thanks






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