Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 toyota sienna limted

Hi all,
My 1st post here.

Just wanted to ask what's the recommended or preferred alarm system with remote start that anyone ever installed in this vehicle that will replace the factory keyless remote with all the functionality still intact?

To be more clearer, a customer wants a new alarm system installed. He asked what system can replace the OEM factory keyless remote but still operate the lock/unlock (of course), the L/R automatic sliding doors and the rear automatic liftgate trunk hatch functionality. The keyless remote has separate button for lock, unlock, left auto-sliding door, right auto-sliding door, rear poweRED / auto-lift trunk hatch and the normal panic button. Also the pressing the sliding doors and rear powered trunk hatch buttons again will close them respectively.

I've installed and suggested an add-on remote start before that can utilize the factory keyless remote but the frequency range will be limited by the remote itself. Doesn't seem to be what he's looking and want a new retro-fit.
Mind you, as long as he gets the those factory functionality back with the new system, the brand/model is not important but quality is....
I've been looking at the Viper 791vx/5900sst or perhaps the new Viper 7900 but just need to confirm if the system can copy the functions mentioned..

Looks like my customer wants all the bells and whistles here guys (or gals posted_image

) so hit me off with what you recommend...

Thanks,
J.D.

Have not done that excact vech. yet but i would recomened the AutoPage

RS-860LCD

Six-Channel Alarm System with Remote Car Starter and Two Way FM/FM Paging LCD Remote Transmitter

Reasons being: 1 you have lock and unlock, 2 you can use aux channel 3 and 4 for the sliding doors, 5 for the hatch. Plus it has a dedicated panic button. They also make the same setup less the remote start.

Hope i was of some help...PS used this system before works very well.

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Jeep is a way of life, not just my ride.

Interesting... I'll have to look into that model.

Is it cold where you live? Do you know if real cold temps have any effects on this unit?

Thanks jeeper87!

Just in case you needed to knoe the alarm only modle is RF-520LCD....

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Jeep is a way of life, not just my ride.

The viper is a good choice for that van. The buttons can be set up in any configuration you want. The 2 sliders and the back hatch require just a negative pulse to operate, that means no relays just simply connect the wires and your done. The last time i did a viper in one i set the left two buttons(pressed together) to open the left door, same with the right, and the two bottom buttons to do the hatch. It made it easy to show the customer operation this way. Also, two stage unlock is very simple as the unlock wire opens the drivers door with the first pulse, then the others with the second. This is easily done on the Viper by simply connecting the second unlock together with the first.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2, as I understand the viper negative pulses as you indicated for the sliders and hatch, you think that 200mA is enough for it to operate without relays?
Also, I've been studying the wiring schematic in preparation for this customer job and see the power unlock wire as the blue one in the driver kick panel area.
So, can you explain a little more on your last statement 'connecting the second unlock together with the first'
I'm trying to understand what you mean here. What second wire?
The only wire I see is the blue / YELLOW (-) in the passenger kick panel.
Is this the wire you're referring to?

Thanks,
JD.

if you do a viper, only hookup the 2pin harness unlock wire (blue) and forget about the blue second unlock in the other harness. It will do the both unlocks.

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Yes the 200ma output is enough to operate the doors. The unlock wires i refer to are on the Viper, not the car. There is a separate plug with a blue wire marked 2 stage unlock or 2nd unlock or something to that nature. I usually tie that wire and the blue wire on the locks harness together to get 2 stage unlock. MC says you don't need to and that may be so, never tried it that way...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I think cause all you'd need to do is program the system for a double pulsed unlock?! I may be wrong though

Mike M2 wrote:

The unlock wires i refer to are on the Viper, not the car.

Ah.. I see. Thanks Mike M2!!

kmobilecustoms &j12v - Thanks for your input as well.

By the way, I came across a feature in the viper 7981vx to connect the defroster wire. The thing is the Datawire diagram does not indicate this wire.
Am I going have to go about this the 'old school' way and start poking (searching) around. Could be the thing I can do once everything is connected, if time permits. You know how that goes... posted_image

Before you decide on an alarm for this vehicle, check out www.ultrastarters.com first. I use these units on everything and they make a unit specifically for minivans with power sliding doors and power rear hatch. You can get the model # ULT2600TL, this is alarm/remote start/keyless entry/power sliding doors and rear hatch all on the new remote. The best part about these alarm systems is the shock sensor is adjustable through the remote and also includes a temporary shock sensor bypass option that will allow you to arm the system and bypass the shock if there is a thunderstorm or loud stuff setting off alarm. The adjustable shock sensor then allows the customer to adjust to thier specific taste and keeps you from getting a comeback. (ONLY IF PROPERLY DEMONSTRATED) check out the install manual and familiarize yourself with the unit and the shock sensor functions and you will wish you found this brand earlier. PM me if you have any Q's...

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My rifle is my friend...

customak47,
Do you have a link to the install manual? Can't seem to find th ULT2600TL model.
Thanks!

Ok, an update on my customer's van. I explained to him the Viper 7981vx and what Jeeper87 recommended - the Autopage RS-860LCD.
Now, as you know, it's all about the customer's needs and perspective. To us, the wirings and install process is about the same depending on the features the customer wants.
So in the end, the Viper lost to the Autopage. Like I like said, customers don't know the background work involved and they only know the front end (remote transceiver and what info it gives them).
What moved him towards the Autopage is the indoor cabin temp monitor, clock and timer reminder for parking meter. Also the remote-start when a preset temp threshold is met that will activate to keep the cabin temp just right. This is good for when the temps drops downs drastically to say zero degrees.

With all these additional features, the Viper had no chance. It pretty much has all the basic features as the Viper and then some. To tell you the truth, I kind of looking forward to install this alarm. I remember back in the day when Autopage had those beepers to alert of a break-in.. Did I just give away my age here? LOL posted_image

Lastly, does anyone know of any other system that has the extra features (temp monitor, clock time, etc.) Autopage has to compare to?
Thanks,
JD.

Anybody know the location or have connected this wire before?

Found an extra (-) 200ma channel and thought , why not...

Thanks!
JD.

anyone?

Bueller, Bueller....

Just curious if a 500ma (-) pulse is enough to operate the door locks directly on a 2006 Sienna or does relays have to used?

This is a single (-) pulse wire for unlock and lock.

Thanks.

You can do it without relays. I believe unlock is a double pulse though so you will have to hit the unlock but the key cylinder wire blu / YELLOW in the passenger kick only requires single pulse.

accessdenied wrote:

Ok, an update on my customer's van. I explained to him the Viper 7981vx and what Jeeper87 recommended - the Autopage RS-860LCD.
Now, as you know, it's all about the customer's needs and perspective. To us, the wirings and install process is about the same depending on the features the customer wants.
So in the end, the Viper lost to the Autopage. Like I like said, customers don't know the background work involved and they only know the front end (remote transceiver and what info it gives them).
What moved him towards the Autopage is the indoor cabin temp monitor, clock and timer reminder for parking meter. Also the remote-start when a preset temp threshold is met that will activate to keep the cabin temp just right. This is good for when the temps drops downs drastically to say zero degrees.

With all these additional features, the Viper had no chance. It pretty much has all the basic features as the Viper and then some. To tell you the truth, I kind of looking forward to install this alarm. I remember back in the day when Autopage had those beepers to alert of a break-in.. Did I just give away my age here? LOL

Lastly, does anyone know of any other system that has the extra features (temp monitor, clock time, etc.) Autopage has to compare to?
Thanks,
JD.

Accessdenied, I have an 860LCD installed in my '05 Tacoma and it works well with the exception of the range on the remote. Have you had problems with this on your installs? I moved the antenna three times with no better results. Right now the best I can get is about 100-150 yards no matter what the surroundings are. It's no better even if I am in eyeshot of the truck and can see the antenna. It was mounted on the driver's side upper, driver's side lower, and now center upper pointing down. Any ideas???

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Pioneer AVIC-Z1, JL 8W3V2, XR650CSi, 300/4, 250/1, Bluetooth, XM, A/V switch, Backup Cam, Autopage RS-1000

lamikela1, just curious, did you have the system installed at a shop or yourself?
I'm thinking the antenna wire is bundled up under the dash. That should not be the case.. that wire should be routed up the dash, up the driver side windshield pillar across the top and the antenna nub pointing up..
I know it'll look stupid as the wire entry point is on the bottom..
Also make sure the there is no interference on top of the windshield that will inhibit radio frequency. This goes for frosted type tints, internal radio antennas (check your manual for your vehicle. I think Toyota place the antenna under the front, middle roof for clean look), etc.
Another thing is make sure the connection on both ends are plug in good.
But remember, don't overlook one thing, yours may just be defective.
To test this, disconnect it and see if there is considerable distance range change of 2-way remote operation.
Or you can try another autopage antenna ...
Ccome to think about it, there is a programming feature on this system that checks the range and alerts you if your 'out of range'.
Do you know if this feature is enabled?

Let me know..

accessdenied wrote:

Anybody know the location or have connected this wire before?

Found an extra (-) 200ma channel and thought , why not...

Thanks!
JD.

Ok, I'm still looking to get feedback for the defroster wire on this Sienna...

Frye.... Frye....

Accessdenied, I did try all of the tips on this site in trying to get more range on my unit. I have the antenna wire streched out (no kinks). Also, the tacoma does not have any metallic particles in the windshiled. I installed the alarm and here's what I've been through.

1) Installed with antenna facing up mid ways up left side of the windshield wire running through the A pillar on the left. This was the factory recommended location.

2) Installed with antenna facing up top of windshield left side, wire running through the A pillar on the left.

3) Installed with antenna facing down, top of windshield wire running through the A pillar on the left antenna in center of windshield.

Virtually no change but does work slightly better in position 3. I never tried it without the antenna connected to see if anything changes. I will try that and let you know. Also, I did not program the range check as that will only run the battery down faster. it does the same thing when you try to input a command. If it's out of range the little satellite icon will disappear. Actually, it could be a bad antenna but I had nothing to compare it to.

Thanks for the help. Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I have not had a chance to check the site.

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Pioneer AVIC-Z1, JL 8W3V2, XR650CSi, 300/4, 250/1, Bluetooth, XM, A/V switch, Backup Cam, Autopage RS-1000

No problem...

ok.. the defroster wire on this Sienna....anyone?

Bueller...... Bueller...... posted_image

lamikela1 wrote:

Accessdenied, I did try all of the tips on this site in trying to get more range on my unit. I have the antenna wire streched out (no kinks). Also, the tacoma does not have any metallic particles in the windshiled. I installed the alarm and here's what I've been through.
1) Installed with antenna facing up mid ways up left side of the windshield wire running through the A pillar on the left. This was the factory recommended location.
2) Installed with antenna facing up top of windshield left side, wire running through the A pillar on the left.
3) Installed with antenna facing down, top of windshield wire running through the A pillar on the left antenna in center of windshield.
Virtually no change but does work slightly better in position 3. I never tried it without the antenna connected to see if anything changes. I will try that and let you know. Also, I did not program the range check as that will only run the battery down faster. it does the same thing when you try to input a command. If it's out of range the little satellite icon will disappear. Actually, it could be a bad antenna but I had nothing to compare it to.
Thanks for the help. Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I have not had a chance to check the site.

Accessdenied, sorry to hijack your post again but just an update.

I did try to disconnect the antenna but when I did that I could not operate the alarm using the remote at all. So it does appear that the antenna is operating properly. I have been looking at the Autopage RS1000 OLED. Do you have any experience with that one? Do you know if the range is any better?

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Pioneer AVIC-Z1, JL 8W3V2, XR650CSi, 300/4, 250/1, Bluetooth, XM, A/V switch, Backup Cam, Autopage RS-1000

Ok, an update:

After installing the alarm, I noticed the sideview mirror puddle lights does not light up anymore when disarming. However the factory keyless remote, when pressing the unlock button, lights up the interior dome AND puddle lights. Also both works after the ignition is turned off.

As I understand it, the unlock wire disarms the factory alarm and could be similar to how the factory keyless unlock functions.... maybe....

Does anyone know the location of the puddle lights wire or got this working on the 06 Sienna Limited? I do have the dome supervision wire connected from the aftermarket alarm and works fine on unlock but no puddle lights. One would figure they are both on the same wire or relay circuit.

Also, regarding the defroster wire? Well the 04-05 Sienna wiring diagram has this info so I going to check this out on the 06 model if it s correct. Kind of strange this info is not include in the 06 sienna wring diagram...

Rear Window Defrost = YELLOW /GREEN (-) TOP RIGHT OF FUSEBOX RELAY

i would go to the actual light. and check it there. Read the color and go to the kick panel and see if its there too. it wouldn;t tie in with the factory system like you think it would. you would need your own pulses.

Damn.. I was hoping NOT to go inside the driver door... and yes this will definately require separate pulse OR, depending on what kind of wire I find (+/- ), just diode isolate with the dome supervision (-) output wire so both works when unlocking.

Anyone else have an idea?

yep you answered your own question. as soon as you find your wire look for that same wire in your kick panel to hopefully avoid running a wire all the way through.

Not sure if it's worth all the work and time. Everything is all tuck away already... posted_image

Also noticed the factory alarm uses the hazard lights instead of the parking lights as flash indicators which is cool since the sideview mirrors has amber color, arrow-shaped turn indicators connected to the turn signal/hazard circuit.

Ok, another update.
I notice a new issue regarding the automatic headlight switch and the parking lights.
When the headlight switch is set to automatic, the parking light wire [(-)GREEN/ BLACK at the headlight switch] do not work or seems to be cut off from normal operation as alarm flash indicators. No parking lights flash at all!!
Strange thing is if the remote start is active, the parking lights work (flashing or steady - depends on alarm setting)
If the headlight switch is in the off position, then the parking lights work normally. This also solves the other issue of the headlights not turning off after a RS has timed out or manually shutdown. It really sucks to have to remember to manually shutoff the head every time.
This was solved as I already relayed (interrupted) the purple wire from headlight switch harness as mentioned here in one of the post but this is when I noticed this parking light issue. It could also be a coincidence.
I believe this has nothing to do with the purple (sensor) wire and is how the automatic headlight sensor circuit works in Toyota vehicles in general.
And this happens day or night.

Can someone verify if they can get the parking lights to flash on lock or unlock when the headlight switch is set to automatic???

This is a really strange behavior....

Thanks!!

I think that you are not connecting close enough to the parklites.That is you are connecting at HL switch control and not directly to parklites.

Hi Wayne3,
Thanks for you input but all the connections are made via the ignition harness under the steering column which is also the ideal location of the parking light GREEN/ BLACK (-) wire.

This GREEN/ BLACK (-) wire is grounded from the alarm and activates the vehicle parking lights relay. This would be, what I call, the 'BEFORE the relay' wire location. So what you're saying is connect the alarm park light output wire directly to the park lights preferably running the wire into the engine compartment. This would be, what I call, the 'AFTER the relay' wire location. Am I understanding you?

However, I'd like to throw this out there that the park lights DO work when the HL switch is NOT in the automatic switch position and the GREEN/ BLACK (-) wire is where the alarm output is connected which pretty much what all wiring diagrams indicate to do.

Can anyone else gather any thoughts as why the automatic headlight switch disables the GREEN/ BLACK (-) wire

Somehow I'm thinking this has to do with the sensor in general and overrides the GREEN/ BLACK (-) wire at the ignition harness.
Why??? I don't know. Could be a factory Toyota thing....

I wonder if this only happens on Siennas and not other Toyota vehicles with auto HL feature... Anyone care to test and find out??? posted_image

Hi accessdenied

I agree with connecting under dash as you indicated.

All that I was suggesting was that rather than trying to figure out why the HL switch does what it does ,that it would be simpler to by pass the switch and relay and connect your PL trigger wire to another relay and opperate it that way.

However you are the one doing the installation and I am just making suggestions.

Good Luck

Ok an update:
Worked on this a few hours yesterday and determined there was no choice but to connect to the hazard light wire to see the lock/unlock alarm flashes when set to auto-HL.

The 'After the relay' PL output wire I tested came out to be moot. That wire is grounded at all times. Seems it switches from ground to 12v when the PL relay gets the (-) signal from the HL switch or (-) pulse from the alarm.

After testing the hazard wire, I figured the (-) 1 sec momentary PL lock/unlock pulse from the alarm is good enough because if the pulse was any longer than that, the hazard lights will flash 2x from a 1x pulse. That would suck.

Well at the end, I decided to connect the alarm PL output wire to both the hazard and PL wire on this car. Diodes are used to isolate the hazard and PL circuits. I did this for the remote start PL flashes as well.

Wiring it this way worked out better than expected. The PL wire from the alarm has a steady 2sec 12v output between pulses so the car parking lights just stays lit for the 2sec duration while the hazards flashes 3x, ten pauses and then starts the cycle again. Really looks cool and different. By just looking at the flash scheme, you definitely will know the car is remote started.

Of course, since the PL lights don't work when set to auto-HL, the hazard pulse timing is synchronized with the alarm lock/unlock pulse.

So, this ends my Sunday morning write-up... posted_image