06 mazda3 gs, alarm/remote start

Hi,

If possible, i'd really appreciate someone helping me program my dei 1100f Pats/Securilock transponder for my car.  I'm not sure what installation mode i'm suppose to use for my car.  The directions don't really make sense to me.  Here is what it says:

Step 1: This procedure determines whether the module will operate using the conventional manner using the ground when running signal or a data type connection not used in this application.

Caution: for security purposes this step is programmable only once. Please ensure the proper mode is activated.

Than it goes on to say i need to choose between Unused and Standard installation mode.  Which is which? is standard the data type mode? or vice versa.

In any event, i have no idea which selection i'm suppose to make and don't wanna screw it up since i only get once chance of doing it.  There is also a Factory reset i can do but i'm under the impression the factory reset doesn't reset this step does it?

Thank you for any help on this. Oh, and incase anyone missed it, i have a 2006 Mazda3 GS Sedan.

At the transponder at ignition barrel: TX=WHITE/ Green, RX=Gray/Orange.

Use STANDARD installation mode meaning that you'll trigger the 1100F via a groundout from the remote starter.

You need two original pre-programmed transponder keys. Clones will not work.

Here are the steps. PGM button refers to the programming button on the 1100.

Steps 6 to 10 have to be done within 3 seconds of each other, otherwise it'll exit programming.

Ground while running should be from your alarm/remote start harness. What system do you have?

Gary

Hi to all the electronic car experts out there.

I have a 06 mazda3 GS model that uses a single wire for lock and unlock. From what i understand, the "Lock" needs to be grounded through a 1kohm resistor in order for my aftermarket alarm to work with it.  After doing so, my priority unlock doesn't work anymore. 

Here is my question, how can i get this feature back? I know its been talked about in some depth but i was wondering if anyone had already done it or knows how to do it for a mazda3 06.  From what i understand, the priority unlock is triggered via some sort of "short" pulse from the factory alarm and when hitting the unlock button on original remote twice, it unlocks all doors.

Is there someway to wire a relay inbetween to achieve this? I've read the PDF on "negative trigger priority door unlock" but i think accordin to the sheet, i need actuators that do unlock and lock wiht seperate wires.  Although i'm not entirley sure about this.  Anyhelp woudl be much appreciated!

Thank you.

Yes. DEI uses "STATUS" to describe this wire whereas most others use "GROUNDOUT".

This is coming from the remote starter and it's a wire that sends a constant ground (not pulsed like the disarm wire).

It's the very first wire to be activated the instant you press the remote start button on your remote.

This is where it gets its name from: Ground out, because it's a ground output. It's like an activation or turn-on signal.

If you have a PDF of your remote starter then upload it into the "Downloads" area of this site so we can have a look.

That's right:

Ground When Running Wire on Bypass Module Side
To
Remote Start (-) Output to Bypass Module Wire on Alarm Side.

How can i change different types of pulses on my alarm? I think via  a relay and capictors of sorts? I'm fairly new to all this could you explain a bit?

When you say connect inbetween unlock motor with relay i think i sorta get the idea.  It means i need to actually cut one of the unlock wires on the actual motor somewhere and put a relay between it?

If so, i was under the impression that this car only has one wire for lock and unlock, if i do that wouldnot i be effecting the lock somehow?

Thanks for the replies guys!

What kind of alarm ar you using?....almost all of the newer name brand stuff has to option to change the door lock pulses.

With the relay setup, you would find the wire that only unlocks the drivers door....This is gonna be a (+)  and will be WHITE/ black in the drivers kick coming from door harness. The relay would go as follows. Cut the WHITE/ black wire in half......The switch side would go to 87a. The other half would go to 30. 86 And 87 get constant 12 volts. 85 would be the (-) drivers door priority from alarm.

The one wire setup  is actually just sending a (-) pulse to  relays that go to the motor wires of the actuator....so, no...doing this will  not affect the lock and unlock.

First, i need to know if this alarm even has the capability of doing drivers door priority locking. If it does, there will be two unlock wires on the alarm. If it doesn't, there is no way i know of to do this. One for drivers door priority, and 1 for the rest. Also, i need to know if you can change the unlock pulse length. I know you say it has double pulse, but that will not help us. As mentioned above the second pulse has to be extended....it will not work with a normal unlock pulse. So, heres the idea......the drivers door priority wire would go to the BLACK/ white (-) disarm wire of the vehicle. The other unlock wire would go to that same wire. So when you hit unlock the first time on the transmitter, it will send a (-) to the BLACK/ white wire.....this would unlock just the drivers door. When you hit unlock on the tx again, a second extended pulse would go to the BLACK/ white wire,this would unlock all of the other doors. This is just the way the vehicle is set up.

So, it the alarm does have a way to set up drivers door priority, but not a way to change the pulse length...you can still do this, but using the door lock motor wires, which is that relay setup i gave you.....and is completely different than the first option ( the first setup is definately the easier of the two) and would use the WHITE/ black unlock motor.

If you have a link to the install manual, or have a way to e-mail it, let me know....that would help out alot.

They are using it instead of a tach wire.

They asume that if there is power on that wire it's because the engine has started: therefore the remote starter can stop cranking the engine.

What a pain in the you know what. That used to work in 1982. We're in 2007. Everything is computer controlled nowadays.

I'll see what I can find. You sure there isn't a tach input on the r-starter?

sorry this  is t he best i could do i think

here is a hotlink directly to the picture:

https://img513.imageshack.us/img513/924/myalarmqj6.jpg

I think this is possible but i'm not entirely sure how to do this.  What i basically want is my actuator to open and close with one push of my alarm button.  The reasoning is because i hooked up my actuator to my trunk so that it would open it up. 

Here is the problem though: The actuator "closes" which pulls the latch open and allows me to lift up the trunk but when i slam my trunk down, the trunk doesn't stay shut.

Reason: the reason it doesn't stay shut is because the motor of the actuator is to stiff that the trunk latch isn't able to pull the actuator back to the "open" position to allow my trunk to close and stay shut.

Solution: If there is a way to make my actuator move closed and than a second after go back to the opened position, this should solve my dillema.  Could someone help with showing me how to connect the some relays to do this?  I think i need 2 relays but i'm not entirely sure.  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thank you!

I forgot to mention this.

Would this work for me or would this just end up burning my actuator?

Hook up 12v+ to 86 and 30

(-) output from alarm system to 85

87 and 87a get one of the wires from the actuator?

Woudl leaving a constant 12v's going to the actuator burn it out or will the actuator just not move and not care?

Thank you.

While were on topics about trunks, could someone tell me if i did something wrong?

When i set my alarm, i open the trunk with my key and my pager alarm goes off and notifies me that the trunk has been opened. This tells me that the trunk trigger was hooked up properly right?

Problem: when i go to unarm my pager alarm and open the trunk, it works but if i keep my trunk opened too long, the alarm goes back to "locked" mode.  I figure this is because somewhere in the manual it says that if no one enters the car, the alarm will arm once again.  That said, if i open the trunk and don't close it fast enough, it will go back to arm mode and alarm will start sounding because it thinks that someone just opened up  my trunk.

I didn't diode isolate my trunk trigger as i'm a complete newb and thought i just had to do it with my door triggers.  Should i diode isolate the trunk and is that the reason why my alarm is ringing?

Or, is this a stupid flaw in the alarm system?

 It all depends on how things are wired, but I'd probably look at doing something like driving a relay with the alarm output and tying the coil ground to something that's negative when the engine is off, but goes to +12v when the engine is running.. the coil loses it's ground when the engine is running and the relay opens, turning off the flashing lights.

 Or, you could use a voltage sense setup that opens the circuit when the voltage goes over +13v.

 Jim

You can use either the ignition or accessory wire from the car to power the relay.   This will prevent the alarm from having any control of the hazard lights if the ignition is on.  You don't necesarrily have to use the outputs from the remote start (although they will be common with the wiring in the car, so it would probably be a good idea to tap the remote start wires to prevent multiple splices in the OEM wiring).

I can't think of a single instance where you would want the alarm to flash the lights if the ignition is already on.