relay coil input for 3rd accessory on rs

Just want to check so I don't fry anything: I have 3 Acc wires I need powered. The RS has 2 wires (1 +12V / 1 -200mA)...

For the first I'll run it direct from Acc 1 (+12V) on the RS like the manual says to do.

Acc 2 will be relay driven from the Acc 2 (-200mA) on the RS module also as the manual says.

Acc 3 relay: Will I run into problems if I power only pin 85 off the Acc 1 wire (+12V), and use the (-) while running on pin 86? This should prevent the 3rd Acc wire from seeing 12V at crank, as the relay still won't activate till it sees the +12V from the Acc 1 wire, right?... or am I better off just putting pin 86 to ground or some other configuration?

I'm hooking a Compustar 2W900FSAS (CM3000-V.3) to a 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII & I realize I could probably run one of the wires as a second igniton, but would still need to do it via a relay so thought this might be best ;)

Please let me know what's ideal :)

Thanks!

Great, thank you for confirming this :)

I'll post up to let you know that I got it working, it may not be for another week till I get it done as I'm working nights and can only work on it bit by bit.

Thank you again!

I do have another question if you might be able to help Velocity?

For the CompuStar unit I have (Compustar 2W900FSAS - CM3000-V.3), there are two aux outputs. In the default mode they are latched upon activation. Does this mean as long as I hold the aux 1 or 2 button they are active? So I could use one of these for a DEI 530T window kit if I wanted and keep full use of the kit (vent & all the way down, depending how long you hold the aux button?)

Thanks again.

Ah, thank you for the clarification sir, I was reading that out of the manual :) I read elsewhere after I posted that it is pulsed for .5 seconds by default. Does this sound right?

Is there any way to get the 530T to work with the CompuStar module without having to buy a programmer? I guess not seeing as I need a short pulse to vent, and a longer one to open all the way? Actually, even with a programmer I'd only get one or the other it looks like (vent or open)?

ps: My DEI 507M tilt sensor showed up today, still waiting on the DEI 8600 magnetic switches and I'll get started on this install :)

ok, I see it now in options 2-6 & 2-7... thank you :)

Ahh... I got the remote start part of the unit hooked up and working :) Looks like everything is good so far. The 3rd Acc works like it should, no CE lights or anything...

I was worried about the tach signal as only one wire I found would give me a good AC voltage that went up as the rpm did, and it was a bit lower than Compustar wanted in it's install book (it calls for 1-8VAC, the one I used reads 0.7VAC idling...) I tried like 5 different wires (even neg injector side) and was getting worried I wouldn't find a wire as I can't use Alternator sensing, as this car has no Stator wire... Seems to work good so far so I'll leave it. If I have trouble later in the cold etc, I'll try something different then, but I don't drive this car in the winter...

...now to hook up the alarm part of this ;) It sux only working on this an hour here and an hour there, plus its been cold and rainy ;)

Thanks again Velocity for the great help, it definately made this go much smoother, I'll let you know how the alarm side goes too :D

Finally found the time to button this all up (after lots of fun with the priority door locks!) and its working great now! Only took two weeks, lol... (actually I put about 8-9 hours of actual work into it and alot of reading here and planning it out to begin with, about 1/3 of this was trying to sort out the locks mind you!)

Alarm side went well other than the locks, but I may move the shock sensor as it is pretty well at its lowest setting and still pretty sensitive (I have mounted it directly to the floor board on the trans tunnel, under the center console right now in about the middle of the car.)

I was going to use the factory hood and trunk switches for this install, but found out they go to +12V when the car is running, so I ran new wire to the hood switch and used it, and put a DEI 8600 magnetic switch in the trunk. These are the only two wires other then the siren + output that I had to run outside of the main passenger compartment, so not too bad I guess.

I still haven't decided wether to get a window module or not... I was going to hook up an aux channel to the fuel door but figured 'why?!' as the button is right on the door anyways so very easy to hit as I get out to fuel the car! I still may use one for the defroster grid too as I modified an extra switch I have to use a relay to act as the button (I took it apart and soldered wires on either side of existing activation switch) and tested it out and it works good, but I didn't leave it installed for some reason...

Thanks Velocity and everyone that helped with this, I would still be at it without your help 

icarus_icarus wrote:

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I was going to use the factory hood and trunk switches for this install, but found out they go to +12V when the car is running, so I ran new wire to the hood switch and used it, and put a DEI 8600 magnetic switch in the trunk. These are the only two wires other then the siren + output that I had to run outside of the main passenger compartment, so not too bad I guess.

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JWorm] wrote:

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br>They normally will meter as +12v when they are closed. Why would that be a problem? You could have used the factory wiring and everything would have been fine.

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I could have connected this directly to the - (trunk/door) input on the module?

icarus_icarus wrote:

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JWorm] wrote:

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They normally will meter as +12v when they are closed. Why would that be a problem? You could have used the factory wiring and everything would have been fine.

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I could have connected this directly to the - (trunk/door) input on the module?

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Really? crap... it figures... I thought having it go to 12V when running would possibly fry the module...

oh, well its done now...