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2006 mustang door triggers

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92502
Printed Date: July 01, 2025 at 4:50 PM


Topic: 2006 mustang door triggers

Posted By: kmzeidler
Subject: 2006 mustang door triggers
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 12:46 AM

I know this has been posted before but no explanations have been told in previous threads.

I have a 2006 mustang that I just installed a clifford avantguard 5.1 g5 alarm into. I have a few problems and they seem to be normal problems yet I do not know how to resolve them.

-Remote start works if you locked or unlocked in the last 30 minutes. Otherwise it does not work and the alarm occasionaly goes off.

-When door opens the alarm does not go off, when you close it the alarm goes off.

-The trigger wire is wired into the dome supervision.

Would taking the seperate negative door triggers and diode isolating them with 1 amp diodes correct both of my problems? Why wont the remote start work after the bcm shuts down or what not.


thanks,
kevin



Replies:

Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 7:36 AM
It almost sounds like you have the alarms door trigger going to one of the latch wires of the vehicle.....the wires rest at (-) and when the door opens goes to open...this would explain why the alarm goes off when you shut the door. The vehicle does not have normal (-) trigger door trigger wires that you can use.On the mustangs, i use lt/green yellow dome supervision at the smart junction box on passenger side.Its on the back side of the sjb in the top plug, or the wire can be found in the big harness running across the pass. firewall towards pass kick.

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Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 7:53 AM
i'll check that out, but it should be on the dome supervision wire.

would it be better to just diode isolate the 2 trigger wires and do it that way.

Could this cause the RS to not work after the bcm shuts down?




Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 8:11 AM
Just diode isolating the 2 latch wires won't do anything, because the door latch wires (door triggers) do not send a (-) when the doors are open. They show (-) when the door is shut, and then when you open a door the wires go to open.....or nothing. As for the not working after 30 minutes, i'm not sure what would cause that, the mustang doesn't fall asleep like some of the other Ford vehicles. When you try to remote start after 30 minutes, what happens? Does the remote start click, and act like it's gonna start, does anything in the vehicle power up?

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Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 3:33 PM
the lights flash and then it does not try to start or anything.




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 7:49 PM
it looks as if the alarm goes off from teh door pins. It says it does when the led flashes. So it seems as if the door pins work correctly. I dont have any intermittent problems. It is the Remote Start problem that I am having.




Posted By: 1456wires
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 9:15 PM

i posted a page on another sire using 10k resistors and diodes. It worked 100%.Here is the link

https://www.canadiancaraudio.com/online/install-related/21696-05-06-mustang-door-pins-question.html

I'll post the diagram from work in the morning





Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 05, 2007 at 1:51 AM
Yeah please post the diagram and exactly what to do because this problem is annoying the heck outta me.

Would this fix the remote start by chance? My lights flash 4 times when i go to use the remote start after 30 mins of the car being off. I tried it leaving the key in the ignition and RS'ing after 30 mins and did the same thing. Somehow the bcm shutdown is screwing it up. Possibly fixing the triggers might work?


thanks,
kevin




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 05, 2007 at 2:00 AM
i saw the diagram on the other forum, correct me if i am wrong.

I wire in two diodes IN4001 band facing away from the ecu

splice off the 2 wires on the band side and go to the alarm

Throw 12v constant to each wire that the diode is on with 10k resistors.


Questions...
Do I only need to use 2 diodes?

Can i just tap into the wires with some scotch blocks or t-taps and have it be sufficient?




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 07, 2007 at 3:55 PM
anyone know how to fix this problem. The diode/resister thing did not solve the problem unless i did it incorrectly.someone help me out a little bit more I may have wired it in wrong.

RECAP!
Alarm Is not affected by the opening or closing of door.
Remote start will not work after 30 minutes unless you open or close a door.






Posted By: custom audio ny
Date Posted: April 07, 2007 at 4:56 PM

Ok..you definatly have a problem and I feel for you. It is difficult to troubleshoot this specific problem not being under the dash but I will attempt with some advice.

You should only be using the domelight supervision wire for door trigger which is negative,  light green w/ yellow located at the smart junction box in the gray 26 pin plug, pin 25 , so forget all the diode stuff..not neccesary on that vehicle. If you did this already and are still having problems it should only be 2 possible causes... you are connected to the positive door trigger input wire of the R/S brain..which would cause some of the issues you describe...or there is another problem with the unit or it's wiring.

Of course I assume you doubled checked everything with a DMM..a few times to verify all your main connections are reading as they should be and you have a good solid paint free ground.

As far as it not remote starting properly....well if it is remote starting at all..which you cliam it does..it is pretty safe to assume your main power wires are good and the brain is functioning. So we need to delve into what prevents the unit from remote starting..plain and simple. If all your shutdown wires are proper we have to look elsewhere.

One possibility..for some reason that remote start unit will not start if the door trigger wire has a signal on it..which would happen if you used the wrong door trigger wire. I have not seen this..usually the hood wire only prevents remote starting..but to check if this problem is related to the door..disconnet the trigger wire and see if the problem persists.

Another possiblity is the starting problem is unrelated to the door trigger problem..so I would look towards the bypass module as a culprit...check the wiring to that and try a different brand or type bypass module if it appears suspect.

Hope this helped..if not at least I tried.

Best of luck with it. 



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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 08, 2007 at 1:05 PM
Everything is hooked up exactly to what it should be and i test with the dmm about 100 million times. The problem with the door triggers falses out the r/s. I have read about it before.




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 08, 2007 at 6:23 PM
Car remote starts if I unlock the car first.




Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: April 08, 2007 at 6:48 PM

When you unlock with the transmitter?If so, and  you have a starter kill installed, it sounds like you may have the starter wire of the remote start on the wrong side of the stater kill.



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Posted By: custom audio ny
Date Posted: April 08, 2007 at 11:50 PM
Good call mikvot.....might be it. I just did an RS/security in  an 07 Saleen extreme mustang with no glitches at all.

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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified




Posted By: AirWaveGT
Date Posted: April 08, 2007 at 11:52 PM
i'd also check to make sure that you have the disarm wire hooked up correctly




Posted By: custom audio ny
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 12:21 AM
I don't know about that one..I would think the factory alarm would start honking if the disarm wire was wrong.

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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 12:40 AM
If the starter kill was on the wrong side it most likely would not start at all. And it starts perfect before the bcm does a shut down. however 30 mins later you must unlock it first with the transmitter.




Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 11:53 AM
kmzeidler wrote:

If the starter kill was on the wrong side it most likely would not start at all.
  Not true at all. when the car is armed, the starter connection is broken. If the starter wire of the remote start is on the ignition side of the starter kill, then the car would not remote start when the car is armed. If the starter wire of the remote start was on the starter side of the starter kill, then it would never see a broken connection, and would allow the car to start no matter what.

I've never heard of a bcm shutting down like this on a mustang, even if this were true, when the car is remote started 12 v is supplied to the ignition which in turn would wake the (sleepy bcm). I work on a ford lot, and have done 15 or so remote starts on mustangs, and about 300 alarms and have never seen a problem like this. I would definately recommend taking the car to a professional and have them diagnose the problem.



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Posted By: custom audio ny
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 3:47 PM

mikvot is on the money again..and as far as the BCM sleeping I am also unaware of that on these later fords...The GEM can have a problem with alarms due to falling asleep.,.but the only sympton that causes (I used to go thru this with some of the f150's and exploders) is it would not let the doors unlock with the remote until woken up...nothing to do with remote starting. These mustangs have whats called an SJB..smart junction box....never heard of falling asleep issues with those.

Using the domelight supervision wire eliminates the need to diode isolate the 2 door wires and can prevent false alarming in some cases but still within all reason should have nothing to do with remote start problems. Unless something new and strange is on this mustang and not on any other I have worked on.



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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 7:44 PM
hmm I think I may have figured out what happened. On the starter kill and ignition kill wires I may have put them to the wrong side and in turn put the remote starter wire on the wrong side as well. If my car is armed/going off will it still start with the wires crossed.




Posted By: custom audio ny
Date Posted: April 09, 2007 at 8:00 PM

Amazing how it's always the simplest most basic things we overlook.

I hope it's working as it should now.

Take care



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Custom Audio
Lynbrook NY

ASE/MECP master certified




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 10, 2007 at 8:38 AM
I think you have gone to a pos light feed or you've connected purple rather than green for your door contacts. Don't need a 10kr if you separate the  door feeds with diodes (band side away from alarm) also diodes band side to alarm between CPU and alarm junction points on both door contact leads. This will prevent wake-up surge from the body CPU. Hood switch is open circuit when hood opened, also haven't  told us where your power cables are routed to?




Posted By: kmzeidler
Date Posted: April 10, 2007 at 9:08 AM
power is directly to the fuse box with fuses.






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