priority door setup gone bad

I think I fried my Keyless Entry module in my '94 Lincoln Mark VIII :(

I included these diagrams below to show y'all what I'm playing with, and if you look at the bottom of the first one, you'll see the wires I touched... I'm attempting to hook it up in a priority door setup with my Compustar 2W900FSAS (CM3000-V.3)... and it's not going to well, lol...

While testing, being absent minded as I am, I applied a 12V jumper to the R/O (163) wire and it did nothing. So silly me tried 12V on the PK/BK (117) wire. Then I realized that I had not applied a ground to the other side, but figured it rested at ground and wouldn't hurt it... well I was wrong and now my Keyless entry doen't lock or unlock the doors at all (via switches, remote, or anything!) The trunk release and all other functions of the keyless entry work still. I hear it click slightly when I hit lock/unlock. I seperated the motor leads and applied a ground to one side and 12V to the other and the solenoids still lock (if I reverse them, they unlock) so they aren't fried...

Now this is what I thought I was trying to accomplish:

Anyone see why I screwed up?

Thanks,

Jon

ps: I tried disconnecting battery to get the module to work again to no avail, I have another module on the way...

If anyone could offer some advice so I don't fry this new module I'd appreciate it!

Thanks for the help Mike. I did check every fuse in the ip panel and under the hood and even tested all with a meter and a fuse tester thinking I might have missed it. No fuses blown, just the module :( lol...

Do you think my diagram looks right? (the lower one for setting up the priority door locks?)

Thanks

nope, it's not correct. I'll tell you why, give me a sec.....nevermind, looked closer at the diagram, it is correct.

Yes I do :) I tested those with a ground jumper (before I killed my module) and they worked fine with a ground pulse.

I think it was the 12V on the motor lead without disconnecting it (via relay) that killed the module?!

I took the old module out today and pulled the cover off. I indeed fried a trace on it going to one of the relays onboard. :(

So any suggestions so I don't fry this new module coming?

Thanks again.

I did use a dmm first before the jumpers, but thought I'd try out the system with a jumper to make sure (and it proved to be a bad idea, lol...)

What size fuse and where should I put it?

Thanks.

You]I wrote:

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applied a 12V jumper to the R/O (163) wire and it did nothing.

---

I can't find my lil soldering iron, so haven't tried to fix the trace yet. I don't know if I can anyways as the one side is among a bunch of diodes and resistors. It's a dual sided board.

yes, I did apply the 12V before cutting it... I was being absent minded like I mentioned :(

I can see where the one side goes easily (to a relay), but the other has a group of dioides and resistor on it so I'm not 100% sure. I'm pretty sure its the end diode in the bunch, but it's right beside this other stuff (like 1mm, and almost against a connector) so I don't think I'm going to bother screwing with it as another module is on it's way here... If I find my other soldering iron, maybe I'll muck around with it... see what else I can fry ;) lol...

oh, lol... I may try to jumper it. Maybe I'll do that and test out the setup with the 'fixed' module and swap out the other after for long term reliabilty?! I have to go in today for some medical tests etc. so won't get to it till the weekend now though...

Thing is, I'm guessing the jumper used to supply the 12V was probably unfused, or tapped off from some source that was able to supply much higher current than the module and relays were normally expected to handle. 

Since it was a ground connection that was involved on the RKE, which isn't normally fused (being on the ground side, and not a 12V supply),  *poof*.

If you can repair the old trace and diode, it'd probably be a good idea to try using that for your installation, and keep the new one as a backup.  If you accidentally poof it again, let the old one be the sacrificial lamb- )

Good idea, I'll look for my soldering iron and fix 'er up and see what happens, I have a big gun type one, but I can't use that on this ;)

Thanks for the help & advice :)

Found my lil soldering iron, and put a wire in place of the burnt trace on the board and it works great now :) The diode was fine.

This will work good now so I can finsh off the install this week. I hate working nights though becasue I never find time to work outside. Off to bed now so I can sleep off this sedation I got earlier at the hospital :)

I'll post up how the circuit works I did on the first page, and hopefully it won't be to say I fried the module again, lol...

Thanks to all the great people on this site helping out!!!

hmmm... it stopped working again last night...

The new module showed up today though, so I popped it in and it works again after I reprogrammed in the remote...

Well, it still doesn't work but I was able to fix the trace on the board this time, I even used a fuse this time (10A) which did not blow...

Only thing I can think of is I mixed up the 'motor' side and 'switch' side of the R/O wire I cut? What should each measure when tested?

I'm only giving this one more try, then I'm just going to wire it up above the relays normally so it unlocks/locks all the doors at once... I can't believe I'm having so much trouble with this...

After searching around more here, I figured out which side is which for the motor (the cut R/O wire reads 12V with unlock button pressed down on the switch side, and 0V on the motor side...)

I hooked it up propery this time, but it still seems to 'struggle' to unlock the door, and its unlocking the passenger side! So I think the factory diagrams I have are wrong, as well as I can't firgure out why it has trouble unlocking it anyways (wired up without the relay it locks/unlocks quickly by door switches...)

Should I just give up on trying to get the priority door unlock to work or keep at it? Anymore suggestions from anyone?

Jon

How come the passenger door unlocks then? The R/O wire only goes to the drivers door module and the anti-theft module (as an input to disarm it.)

I did take the door panel off today and can see the R/O wire going to the motor, so its the right side it seems. I can't see it feeding back through the anti-theft module as it's not even connected, but it must be feeding through somewhere (hence why its unlocking the pass. door and seems to not work strongly?!) I'll look on the passenger side door tonight and see what colors are going to the motor there...

dualsport, I actually think I just answered whats wrong with the above comment and you said not to hook it into the branch that goes to the anti-theft, and maybe thats what I've been doing all along! (I'll be kicking myself in the *** big time if this is the case, lol!)

I'll try one more time with the wire in the door itself, and if this doesn't work, then I'm calling it quits on the priority door locks...

Well how about that...

I was into the harness the first time I guess where it branches off to the anti-theft module! I have it wired up now the way you said dualsport (I ran two wires into the door) and it works perfectly now! Running the wires was pretty easy too so I should have did that to begin with...

Thank you dualsport for helping out and making me see my error, I have learned from this mistake and won't do it again in the future! I am so glad there is people like you and other on this forum willing to help and have the patience and help others learn