2000 ford f150 door trigger
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92962
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 7:55 PM
Topic: 2000 ford f150 door trigger
Posted By: Toru
Subject: 2000 ford f150 door trigger
Date Posted: April 15, 2007 at 12:20 PM
According to the wiring chart, this door trigger is positive and found as a BLACK/ blue in the 40-pin connector at the firewall under the driver's side dash.
I have tried to find a BLACK/ blue wire in this bundle to no avail. Is there some other place I can pick up the door trigger on this truck?
Replies:
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 15, 2007 at 12:45 PM
Directechs mentions that on the f series super duty it is blue/black. On the F series light duty it is the BLACK / YELLOW for the driver door and BLACK/ pink for the passenger door. Both can also be found on the GEM Module located above the fuse box. Diode isolate from each other. You may also need DOC 1076. Sometimes the GEM module shuts down triggering a false alarm. Using DOC 1076 prevents it from happening.
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: April 15, 2007 at 2:45 PM
Hmm, ok. So on the light duty (which this is) there is no singular door trigger wire?
Is this ( https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1076.pdf) the DOC 1076 you were referring to?
So the idea is to splice diodes inline to the two door triggers and then tap - with diode isolation - into each line to feed the door trigger?
What about domelight supervision? For that I need to drive only one door and connect it before the inline diode?
Is the domelight shutting down after a few minutes of having the door open an indication of the GEM power-save mode?
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 15, 2007 at 3:10 PM
Does your model have a dome light delay? If it doesnt then you can use the ORANGE / light green wire at the light switch. This may not need to have a diode to isloate. you can just arm the alarm and wait to see when the GEM shuts down if it goes off. As far as DOC 1076 it only mentions door triggers. Whats cool about using a domelight with a delay on DEI alarms is that you can turn off the error trigger on the DEI alarm and it will wait for the dome light turns off till it activates the alarm. In other words it will wait for lights to turn off and then if you open the door it will be triggered. For the triggers just make inputs for your door trigger wires which are two. On the 1076 diagram it actually shows 4 door and 1 trunk trigger. You just need two and add for a total of 4 1amp diodes. This should be quick and clean.
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: April 15, 2007 at 11:46 PM
Well, the domelight has a slight delay about about a half of a second. When I close the door there is a slight delay then the domelight goes off with a click in the vicinity of the fusebox (I guess the GEM module).
But I don't think that's the kind of delayed domelight you mean.
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 5:06 PM
With the a multimeter you can test the wire. After closing the door that wire should go from 12v to 0v after the half sec delay. That wire would work fine for the door trigger if the dome light turn on with either door opening..
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 11:00 PM
Oh, I think I see what you mean. If the voltage drops out on that wire I can use it the same as the BLACK/ blue I was looking for (and doesn't exist on the light duty F-series). I'll go check it right now.
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 11:29 PM
Interesting. I found the ORANGE / light-green wire on the dimmer switch harness, but it operates in the opposite fashion as your description. With the door open the ORANGE / light-green shows low/floating (subvolt) value - when the door is closed the voltage jumps to +12V when the domelight goes out. When the door is closed and the voltage shows +12v, rotating the dimmer switch to the "domelight on" position causes the voltage to drop out on the ORANGE / light-green wire. I'm not sure in my mind how I would interface this to the alarm - would I need a relay to reverse the polarity and use the negative trigger input? Even then I'm not sure how I would do domelight supervision.
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 11:49 PM
That would be a negative trigger. On your alarm there should be a wire that has negative input. If I were you i would go to the GEM and try individual doors for the trigger and that ORANGE / light blue its not hard at all because its only 2 doors. At the kickpanel you can find your dome supervision wire and it would go from 0v to 12 v when opened. That wire is a BLACK/ light blue wire. when it goes from 0 to 12v that would mean its a positive trigger. If when opening door it goes from 12v to 0v then it would be negative. If your alarm doesnt have a negative door trigger input wire then yes you would use a relay to do that function.
Posted By: MHARVEY
Date Posted: April 18, 2007 at 10:16 AM
The BLACK / YELLOW (-) catches the drivers door and the BLACK/ pink (-)catches the passengers door. The wires are found in there respective door harnesses. On the Super Crew the rear door trigger is BLACK/ lt. blue low in the driver kick panel. Use all wires and diode isolate each away from the bcm. Both wires may also be found at the GEM module located above the fuse box. On models without a dome light delay use ORANGE / lt. green (-) at the light switch.
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: April 18, 2007 at 1:08 PM
MHARVEY wrote:
On models without a dome light delay use ORANGE / lt. green (-) at the light switch.
Given what I described earlier regarding the behaviour of the ORANGE / lt. green at the light switch, it does not seem to be a suitable replacement for directly tapping the actual door trigger wires unless I use a relay to reverse the polarity and drive the negative door trigger input on the alarm.
And since I need domelight supervision I have to tap one of the door trigger wires anyway in order to drive the domelight, so I might as well do everything directly on the door trigger wires.
This is what I am thinking (black boxes are diodes):
Edit: BCM is to the left of the diagram
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