Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start, 97 toyota avalon

I installed a remote starter in my 97 Toyota Avalon over the weekend. It worked great until I tried to remote start it at lunch today - the factory alarm went off!

This page https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1995-97&make=Toyota&model=Avalon&ID=2030&type=Alarm

says "Factory Disarm: Blue/White (-) And Blue (-) Driver's Kick Panel. Diode Isolate."

Can someone help explain this? Why Blue/White *AND* Blue? Are there two wires that must be triggered? Why must a diode be used, and how? ( inline with the neg trigger from the remote start, or cut the disarm wire and insert diode?)

I have no idea where I'd find the Blue/White disarm wire, there are probably 100 wires in the kick panel. And originally I was looking for a Blue/White wire as the unlock trigger (as bulldogsecurity.com said), and couldn't find any blue/white wire that went negative on door unlock.

Hmmm maybe I should just hook the remote start disarm wire to the unlock wire? Because I think unlocking the doors probably disarms the alarm.

Thanks for any help.

DEI does not list a factory alarm disarm, it states that the alarm arms and disarms with lock and unlock. So as you have already stated, use your fad output to unlock then relock after started. Not sure what make and model your starter is, but there should be some type of pulse after start that would relock once remote started.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

I believe A single pulse to the lock wire will dis arm without unlocking, Also you can groud the keysense wire before remote start.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

what kind of remote start did you install. Some remote starts come with a status wire so when the remote start is activated it send either a negative or positive to the wire.. You can install that wire to the blue and white and blue and put a diode so that the power doesnt go in reverse just one way..

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Confidence is the key to any project!!

Bnluis - no, it only takes a single pulse to unlock or lock.

The RS is a "Car and Driver" brand, which is actually a BullDog. I know it has a factory disarm output, but I'm unsure if it has another output thats triggered after the car starts. I'll check.

O k so try this set factory alarm on, wait about 2 minutes , while sitting inside the car stick the key in the ignition, but don't turn it, then remote start the car, see if the factory alarm goes off. If not then that is your answer. the alarm will disarm if it sees keysense in. Find the status output of your remote start anc connect to kysense wire in the car.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

I have done many of this cars in those days and a few here and there now. Go to the Drivers kick panel, You will find a Blue / YELLOW wire( unlock one pulse disarms, 2 pulse unlocks doors) the is the wire that connects to the Key slot on the Outside of the door. If you notice that when you use the car key to open the door mannually if you turn it once it only opens the drivers door , but if u turn it twice it opens the rest of the doors?

Keep us posted

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

I wasn't able to look at it last night, but this morning I did notice that I can't even unlock the doors with the remote after the alarm has armed. It did not set the alarm off though, so basically I think the car disables the power locks after the alarm arms?

I will try to get in to it tonight and look for the blue / YELLOW disarm wire. I imagine its in the same loom as the lock/unlock wires?

Also keep in mind that the Factory toyota remotes won't work, while the car is running. You will need to use the key to get in.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

BNLUIS wrote:

Also keep in mind that the Factory toyota remotes won't work, while the car is running. You will need to use the key to get in.

Wow I don't like that. I'm putting this car up for sale soon so it doesn't matter, but how would you get around that? I think I had found a larger wire that was activated (can't remember + or -) when I cycled the locks by hand. I imagine you could use a relay and hook into that wire to get around this 'feature'?

No way around it unless you install a differnt aftermarket starter with buttons for lock / unlock . The toyota remotes don't work while car is runningn period.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

My RS does have the lock/unlock button. I don't have a factory remote, I bought this car used and was never given the remote for it.

OK so connect the lock and unlock wire to the car lock wires. Simple install then the car should unlock while car is running. Doble check your install

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

They are connected. Sorry I didn't make that more clear. I installed an aftermarket keyless entry/remote starter unit.

The car came equipped with keyless entry, but I don't have a factory remote.

So why do you think the doors won't unlock with the remote after the alarm has armed? The car must be disabling the inside electric locks, yes? And the factory keyless entry unit probably does the additional step of disarming the system first, so the unlock will work.

list the wire you hook up for the locks and to where lis colors as well and I will see.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

I hooked into the GREEN/ Orange (lock) and Yellow/Red (unlock). I got those from this page: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1995-97&make=Toyota&model=Avalon&ID=2030&type=Alarm

I found the lock/unlock wires in a blue plug in the drivers kick panel. Is the factory disarm wire you mentioned in this same loom?

Constant 12 volts	WHITE/ RED & WHITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts	BLACK	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter	RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light	RED / WHITE (-)	12 PIN CONNECTOR AT FUSE BLOCK *
Trunk Pin Switch	RED / WHITE (-)	AT LIGHT IN TRUNK **
Parking Lamp	GREEN (+)	9 PIN CONNECTOR AT FUSE BLOCK ***
Power Lock	GREEN/ ORANGE	BLUE 11 PIN CONNECTOR
Power Unlock	YELLOW/RED	IN DRIVER KICK PANEL **** #209

* RED / WHITE (-) Wire For Dome Light Located At Fuse Box In Dr. Kick Panel. ** With OEM Alarm RED / WHT (-) Wire Can Also Be Accessed In 20 Pin Blue Conn. In Driver Kick Panel Or At OEM Alarm Module In Passenger Kick Panel. *** Instrument Panel Fuse Block Located Behind Driver Dash. **** Child Safety Locks: L GREEN/ BLACK (-) In Same Conn. As Door Locks. #209- See Child Safety Locks Diagram.

Click Here For Our Databus & Immobilizer Bypass Cross Reference

View Diagrams

Accessories
Window Up	D\ GREEN P\ GRN/WHT D\ GRN/YEL P\ GRN/BLK @ MAIN #211
Window Down	F/ RED F/ RED / BLU R/ RED / YEL R/ RED / BLK SWITCH
Ign Key Warn	RED / YELLOW (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Trunk Release	WHITE/ BLUE (-)	AT TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH * #230
OEM Horn	GREEN/ BLACK (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights	RED / YELLOW (-)	AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
OEM Alarm Arm	BLUE/WHITE (-)	11 PIN BLUE CONNECTOR
OEM Alarm Disarm	BLUE (-)	IN DRIVER KICK PANEL

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

Ok so the door locks work when the car is not running? Do you have 2 seperate remotes, ? one for door locks keless entyry? one for starter?

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

BNLUIS wrote:

Ok so the door locks work when the car is not running? Do you have 2 seperate remotes, ? one for door locks keless entyry? one for starter?

Yes the door locks, the remote start, and the trunk pop all work from the remote when the car has not armed itself. There is only one remote - the aftermarket keyless entry/remote starter I've installed. I don't have a remote for the factory keyless entry.

Your chart says to use a blue wire for disarm, so I will try that.

The blue wire did work for the disarm. Unfortunately, it also unlocks the drivers door (yes, on the first pulse). There is no 'status' or 'after start' wire, so I can't automatically lock the door. I could if I used a timer delay, I know DEI makes one for around $15.

There was also a blue/white wire there, it locks the doors.
posted_image

To be more clear, there is no status or after start wire on my remote starter. Wish you could edit your posts here.

I took lots of pictures as I was doing it, I am writing up a little howTo for the AvalonFAQ.com website.

Did you use diodes to seperate the wires? Locks , and factory alrm disarm? By the way great pic. posted_image

P.S. and yes you can edit post here, but you are new member (rookie)

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

No I didn't use a diode, but I think I get it now.

Place a diode between the door lock side of the wire and the car side of the wire. Hook up the RS disarm wire into the car side. That way the car 'sees' the disarm pulse, but the lock doesn't?

posted_image I think u got it let us know what happens

Also what is your Loacation?

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

I'm near Omaha nebraska.

I have someone interested in the car, if they buy it tonight I'm just going to leave it as-is, but if not then I'll probably put in a diode later this week or next week.

Thanks!

I have the same car. Use the neg keysense wire at they cylinder to do disarm without unlocking the doors. Can't remember the color.

johnmax wrote:

I have the same car. Use the neg keysense wire at they cylinder to do disarm without unlocking the doors. Can't remember the color.

I'm surprised that would work, since I triggered the alarm the other night when trying to start the car. I was testing the alarm arming, etc., so I locked the doors and shut the door, while I was still inside. After the alarm light started blinking, I inserted the key and tried to start the car - the alarm went off.

I don't remember if it went off when I put the key in or when I tried to start the car.

Hmmm but that may have to do with the fact that I disabled the keybuzzer by unhooking a two-wire plug up by the keyswitch? That thing was driving me nuts!

"Hmmm but that may have to do with the fact that I disabled the keybuzzer by unhooking a two-wire plug up by the keyswitch? That thing was driving me nuts!"

Yes that is why. As I stated on one of the earlier post that what I do on this cars. Keysense wire.

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Luis
Sound Waves
Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

zirconx wrote:

So why do you think the doors won't unlock with the remote after the alarm has armed? The car must be disabling the inside electric locks, yes?

The car has the child safety lock feature. You need to hook the lt.green black (-) lever wire up as well as the yellow/red unlock wire. Use diodes off of your unlock wire of the remote start.The other way to get around it is to just use the blue(-) disarm wire by itself. This wire will only unlock the drivers door on the first pulse, and will unlock the rest on the second pulse. This wire is only gonna test by turning the key in the door lock cylinder (will not test at the lock switch on the inside.)

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I did figure out that the blue wire only shows a pulse when the key is turned. But sending a second pulse to this wire does not unlock the rest of the doors, BTW.

I'm not 100% sure I have the child safety lock feature. If it just means disabling the inside lock buttons after the alarm arms, then I probably have it.