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connecting wires?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=93021
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 6:38 PM


Topic: connecting wires?

Posted By: elimenohpee
Subject: connecting wires?
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 4:53 PM

i'm just doing research before i dive head first into my first install.  this is a great resource here btw, and if i run into any problems i'm sure they could easily be answered around here.  but anyways, how do most of you go about connecting your wires?  like splicing into the acc line, do you disconnect the wire completely, then re-solder all three wires (both sides of the wire you cut + the wire from the brain) or do you peel back the insulation?  it seems, for me at least, cutting the wire completely would work best just because i suck at mid-stripping wires.  any tips/tricks that you'd like to share?



Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 4:56 PM
I always avoid cutting any of the vehicle's factory wiring whenever possible. I strip back some insulation and solder in the new connection. Mikeshonda750 did a 'how-to-solder' post a while back. Check it out here.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: elimenohpee
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 5:04 PM
yeah i read that post already, some pretty good tips.  is there some kind of wire stripper that makes it easier to strip than the conventional stripper?  i thought i read something somewhere of an automatic stripper?




Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 5:10 PM
yeah there is such a tool. it would go in between the wire and strips the jacket.  After stripping the jacket always SOLDER your connections.  Most of time here in NYC when a person says that the doors dont lock its a loose connection because it was just wrapped around the wire.  Soldering would be the strongest connection possible and you would know for sure it wouldnt be a loose connection when it comes to troubleshooting a problem. 




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 16, 2007 at 7:48 PM
The wealth of info here still amazes me. Click Here and here.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: c.c.autospa
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 4:45 PM
I have heard the using t-taps are no good, is this true or are they ok to use to install an alarm?

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CEDRIC




Posted By: creed2k
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 5:34 PM
I wouldnt use T-taps, but thats just me... my local install place soldered the wire, then wrapped it in electrical tape them heatshrunk every wire. Very well done i would say and that is probably why i havent had any issues with it. posted_image




Posted By: advancedautosec
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 8:45 PM
I cant tell you the amount of repairs ive done on cars with t-taps. DONT USE THEM!!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 10, 2007 at 2:09 AM
T tapes (scotchloks IDC replacement etc) are completely barred on Cat I alarms in UK. Only allowed to solder. My favourite (time and space permitting) is to cut then strip new cable about 2" short of end then Y join, solder and heat shrink, then butt joint solder and heat shrink other end. Make sure solder flows and the finish is shiny and you will never have problems. 




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: May 10, 2007 at 9:09 AM

The easiest way I have found to strip mid wire is the use standard wire strippers to cut in to the insulation, just like you were stripping the end of the wire.  If you use the right 'hold' in the strippers it will cut through the insulation without damaging the wire.  Then, do the exact same thing 3/8" away from the first cut.  This will leave you with a 3/8" piece of insulation that is completely seperate from the rest of the wire.  Now, carefully grab this small piece of insulation with a pair of pliars (or the end of the wire stripper) and pull on it.  It should come off with little resistance.

This only works on bigger ignition wires, as if you try it on smaller wires you run the chance of breaking the wire or pulling it out of its harness.  For smaller wires I just strip in to the insulation and push the insulation back.



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Kevin Pierson




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 10, 2007 at 9:49 AM
I use a variety of methods. Sometimes I use a set of side strippers that I got from Mac Tools. This method works good on wires that are 14g and bigger. Anything smaller, and I find that I will often break the wire. The other method I use involves a hook tool, and a utility knife. I grab onto the wire with the hook tool right near where I want to strip the wire, and then I just use the knife to remove the insulation. Everyone that sees me do it this way thinks I'm crazy, but its what I have done for the last 6 years and I can do it very quick.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 13, 2007 at 11:35 AM
Nice to read Kpierson's comments and find a like minded person! I've had to agree with you on 3 topics so far!




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: May 14, 2007 at 2:08 PM

I use in-line wire strippers that I purchased from Radio Shack a while ago

I use utility knife to create a fish eye in the middle of the strands of exposed copper wire -- creating two identically sized bundles of copper wire. I then feed my stripped end of the wire to be tied into that factory into the fish eye, SPLIT THAT wire that I just fed in there into TWO equal bundles and bring each bundle around the sides and twist tie them on top, solder, and snip excess and then tape or heat shrink.  About as solid a connection as you can get -- once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take that much time.  This method becomes challenging when you're working with smaller gauge wires or when your wire looms are in weird, tight places.



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The search function is your friend.





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