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Autopage RS-750LCD Problem on 97 yukon

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=9306
Printed Date: May 12, 2025 at 1:44 PM


Topic: Autopage RS-750LCD Problem on 97 yukon

Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Subject: Autopage RS-750LCD Problem on 97 yukon
Date Posted: February 09, 2003 at 8:08 PM

First off... Thanks for all the advice prior to my install!  I thought everything was going great, until I tested the door locks...

I initially had the unit hooked up for driver's priority function - it worked! But it was a pain to push and hold the button a second time to get the passenger's door unlocked. So I unhooked the positive lead from the battery and removed the relay for the driver's priority, then rearranged the blue and green (lock/unlock) wires on the other two relays.  I did a couple of other things, i.e. rerouted an aux. 12V wire.  Then I hooked the battery back up...  Problem.

When I push unlock on the autopage remote, the passenger's door unlocks perfectly, but the driver's door unlocks about 7 times (i.e. a series of 7 triggers to the unlock mechanism).  The driver's door will not lock (except manually), but the passenger's door will.  The original remotes (the ones from the factory) don't work now.  When you press lock or unlock on them, you hear some relay click, but nothing happens.  The rear hatch release on the original remote doesn't work either. 

The switches for the door locks on the doors do about the same thing.  Pressing lock will lock the passengers door, but will cause a series of clicks at the driver's door.  Pressing unlock will unlock the passengers door but will cause a series of clicks at the driver's door.  But check this out.

I had the truck on "dome light override" ( a small button next to the headlight switch) that disables all the interior lights when the doors are open.  So I took it off this function to test the "domelight supervision" function.  When I take the truck off of "domelight override" the driver's door begins clicking just like when I push and hold the unlock switch.  The domelights don't come on immediately, but will begin to "flicker" in time with the "clicks", starting very dim and gradually increasing in intensity...

I must have fried something... But I don't really know for sure.  Any thoughts? 

Thanks,

--Jeff

PS.. My remote start doesn't work either, but I will tackle one problem at a time...




Replies:

Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 09, 2003 at 9:19 PM

Small update...

The driver's door clicks only 5 times when the "unlock" signal is received from the Autopage remote.

And my Remote Start DOES work, I just forgot to program it to "Voltage Sensing" mode as I'm not using a Tach. wire.

--JJ





Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: February 09, 2003 at 9:51 PM
what wires do you have for lock and unlock and how do you have it hooked up???




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 5:30 PM

Ok,  here is my  install scheme for the doors and lights....

I tapped the Brown wire at the headlight switch with the White wire from Harness H2.

I used the Gray wire on H9 to activate the back hatch by cutting the black wire at the driver's kick panel.  This works fine.

The domelight relay is triggered by the white wire from H9.  I cut the white wire at the headlight switch and used it in the relay.  My relay is as follows...

30 - Truck side of white wire at headlight switch

85 - 12V constant

86 - White wire from H9

87 - 12V Constant

87a - Switch side of white wire at headlight switch.

As an aside, the "clicking" begins when I turn the domelight override switch to off (i.e. the domelights would normally come on when a door is opened).  So, I have this override feature turned on.  With the overide on and my relay (as above) in place, I can still turn on the domelights by rotating the dimmer wheel to the "on" positon.  The lights work fine.  I can also hear the relay click off after 15-30 secs after arming the alarm.  The domelights don't do anything... I assume that this is related to the domelight override switch being activated.  Consequently, the alarm will not trigger when the doors are opened....

The green wire from H6 is tapped into the Purple wire at the headlight switch.  This should receive a door trigger when a door is opened, but the purple wire does not change with the domelight override switch on.

Now the door lock relay...

I cut the lt. blue and white wires at a harness in the driver's kick panel.  Touching one side  of the light blue wire with 12V would lock all the doors.  Touching the other side did nothing. The same was true for the white wire.

So my lock relay looks like this...

30- Lt. blue wire that locks when pulsed

85-12V

86-Green wire from H7

87-12V

87a-Lt. blue wire that does not lock when pulsed

And my unlock is this...

30-White wire that unlocks when pulsed.

85-12V

86-Blue Wire From H7

87-12V

87a-White wire that does not unlock when probed

As I stated earlier, everything was working when I had it hooked up for the driver's priority unlock.  Then I decided it was too much hassle to unlock the passenger's door.  So I unhooked the battery and set my relays up as above (basically removed one relay, and moved the blue to the "driver's priority" relay).  Hooked the battery back up and this is what I have.  My original factory remotes don't work now (they did with the priority unlock), the driver's door will unlock with disarm, but clicks 5 times (I think this has to do with the length of the pulse from the Autopage unit).  No sound is heard in the driver's door with the arm command.  However, the passenger's door functions perfectly!  Locks and unlocks like a charm...  Also the driver's door will unlock using the switches on the any door, but will "Click" as long as you hold the unlock button down.  No sound is heard from the driver's door with an unlock command. 

Also when you take the domelights off of override, the driver's door begins to unlock repeatedly (a series of clicks until you place the domelights back on override).  If you let this go for a few seconds, the domelights actually begin to light, but very dimly (i.e. the filaments turn orange) and gradually increase in intensity with each click, going off between clicks , all the while the driver's door is unlocking.  The passenger's door is normal!

That's about it.  If anyone needs any more info, please let me know!

--JJ





Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 6:34 PM

Iust an obvious question:  did you hook back up the pink drivers priority unlock wire that you cut to install the relay? 

You shouldn't have to do this: but it should work: If you use the blue unlock wire to trigger two relays: the relay you have it triggering now, as well as the relay you had installed between the pink drivers priority wire.  Like I said you shouldn't have to do this to get it to work, but I would give it a shot if you can't figure it out.   

And I may be missing something, but why did you cut the domelight wire?  My info shows that the polarity is negative and would only need to be grounded for the lights to come on (still using a relay though). I thought I read in another post why you set it up like that but I may be wrong. 



-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 9:01 PM

Ok, now if I was sending 12V through the parking light wire... The white wire at the headlight switch... Could that reak havoc on my system??????  That really could be it, if the polarity is negative, and I send 12V down the line, anyway it seems like it could cause problems in my limited knowledge. 

Could you provide me with a relay setup for ground?  I assume that I would reconnect the white wire, make 30 a tap to the white wire, make 87 a ground, and keep 85 12V???

As for the other relay, I guess I could put it back in, but when I try to probe the tan wire to the driver's door, nothing happens.  So I don't understand that at all.

If you don't mind, give me a hint on how to hook up the domelight supervision, and I'll give that a shot before I spend $117 on a new keyless entry control module with relays.

Thanks for the lead!

--JJ





Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 9:02 PM
And no I didn't hook the pink wire back up, I just cut it.  Half in frustration I think.posted_image




Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 9:28 PM
the park light wire is brown not white.




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 9:34 PM

Sorry domelight wire... That is the one that I have relayed... I have the parking light wired tapped with the 12V 10A output from the alarm... It works fine.

I just took the relay out of the loop on the domelights... Reconnected the white wire at the headlight switch and no dice.  It still clicks.  Thanks for heads up though.

--JJ





Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: February 10, 2003 at 10:02 PM

Make sure the pink wire is connected, you should be able to just plug the relay back in if you just pulled it from the harness, or if you cut the lreay harness out then just connect the two ends of the pink with a piece of wire since they may be too short now.  See if this improves anything and get back to me. 

Leave the domelight wire alone until you figure out the problem.  The way you mentioned above should do just fine for a relay setup though.

Did you do anything with the door trigger yet?

If all of this does not work ,try pulling the three fuses on the Red power wires from the autopage and see if this improves things.  We need to narrow down the problem.  We can take it from there.



-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 11, 2003 at 5:51 AM

Could you explain what you mean by:

"Did you do anything with the door trigger yet?"

Thanks for all your help!

--JJ





Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: February 11, 2003 at 8:24 AM
Did you tap into it?  connect any wires to it?  I was just trying to think of things that would cause this problem.  It looks like you are at the point where you need to diagnose where the problem is coming from.  It can be an annoying process, but it looks like your only choice now.   First make sure that all of the factory wires are connected, either through a relay or directly connected, then unplug the main fuses and see if that restores anything.  Check all of your door lock switches, the factory remotes etc.  If no improvement, then the problem would not likely be with the Autopage.  If it does solve the solution then plug in the fuses and try unplugging one wire harness at a time and test things.  if you can figure out which harness the problem is coming from then try cutting one wire at a time until you figure it out.  I have a feeling you will not need to  come to all of that though. 

-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 15, 2003 at 4:24 PM
I have discovered something interesting...

If I rotate the dimmer wheel to the position that manually turns the domelights on, everything works better. The OEM remotes work, the alarm remotes work: By this I mean that all the doors will lock and unlock. The same is true when using the switches on the doors, however, if you hold down either the lock or unlock side, the door will repeatedly lock and unlock the driver's door while the button is held down.

Everything returns to the haywire state once you turn off the domelight... This leads me to believe that the driver's door actuator is ok, but whatever module that houses the controls for the domelights and OEM remotes must be messed up. Do you have any other ideas about testing this theory?




Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: February 15, 2003 at 6:57 PM
where did you tap the red wire off the 5 pin harness for siren and park lights ???




Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: February 15, 2003 at 6:57 PM
and the ground wire as well????




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 16, 2003 at 11:06 AM
The ground wire is tied into the ground (crimp on circle-type connector) to a cross member that had two OEM grounds already there.

The red wire from the 5 pin harness is tied into a 12V wire in the ignition harness. It is tied directly into its own wire as I added a couple of extra power wires when I tapped "both" the large-gauge 12V wires in the wiring harness.

Thanks!
--Jeff




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 16, 2003 at 11:07 AM
By the way, pulling the fuses for the RS-750 didn't help any...

--Jeff




Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: February 16, 2003 at 3:05 PM
and what color park light did you get?? also where did you tap in the locks??? and did you test those or just go off a diagram??? not be critical just trying to eliminate possibilities..




Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 17, 2003 at 1:50 PM
What color park light? What do you mean? I tapped the brown wire at the headlight switch for the parking lights... They work great. I have tried disconnecting this tap also.

I got the door locks at the driver's kick panel from the switch on the right upright near the back glass. I tested this first with a DMM and then with a probe.

Still have the same problem by the way...

Thanks!
--Jeff

-------------
--Jeff
97 Yukon





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