Hey everybody,
I'm new to the car world, and really want to get into everything. The only thing is, I can't find anyone willing to cut me some slack and show me what I'm doing wrong. My bro and I took the Viper 500esp system out of the car we had (it got totaled), and installed it into a 94' z-26 Beretta. Only thing is we must've wired something wrong; three things are wrong with the system:
1. Within a 20 min. period after being armed, the system goes off for no apparent reason. Suggestions?
2. The shock sensor isn't doing it's job - it's up all the way and it still takes a major hit and won't go off. It's like you really need to slam it to get it to go off. Could my shock box be kaput?
3. For some reason, and not even at any interval, the power to the power door locks seems to not work, and you have to physically push the door lock in to make it lock - this may be due to on the wiring scheme the blue and green wires appear to have been switched (when I had the green to green and blue to blue, the car would unlock when armed, so I switched them and it then locked when armed).
4. Fourthly, I switched a blue led light in place of the red if that'd make any diff.
Any help on this would be so greatly appreciated; I'm starting out kinda small (all the cash went to buying the Beretta), and it seems like every install place I've been to won't show me what's wrong - they want to rip it all out and reinstall it for like $100 which I really don't have right now. Please help!
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A chilidog with a 94' Beretta
1. Check all trigger points and see what wires are grounding to the trigger wires with a DMM
2. Where did you mount the sensor ? If it's on a loom of wires, try to attach it to a plastic peice that is flat or the metal chassis by the driver's foot rest area.
3. You may need to wire in relays to help the signal of the BLUE & GREEN wires to get a full (+) signal to the door locks. Use this relay configuration on both wires ( https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/N2P.jpg )
4. The LED should not have made any difference unless the BLUE LED had a larger power draw than the original one. This would fry the internal board if the load is too high. I have seen this on some Alpine systems where the customer would put 3 or 4 LED's and the load was too high and fried the board.
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|red |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|pink |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|orange |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|lt. blue |+ |either kick panel |
| POWER UNLOCK|white |+ |either kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|brown | |light switch |
| HEADLIGHTS|yellow |+ |light switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|white |- |under dash light |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|black |+ |release switch |
| TACHOMETER|PURPLE / white | |ignition module *1 |
| BRAKE WIRE|white |+ |brake switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|purple |+ |wiper switch |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|dk.blu - brown |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|dk.blu/wht - tan |A |in drivers door or dkp |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|dk. grn - purple |A |in drivers door or dkp |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|lt. grn - pur/wht |A |in drivers door or dkp |
Notes:
*1 Ignition module is rear of engine above trans-axle.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA