Good timing is everything!

Got a winter beater car that I wanted a remote starter for ($40 Wal-Mart special) for my 94 corolla with no immobilizer or factory alarm. The unit is a Bulldog RS92

It is extremely cold in New England, and I would rather wait till spring to wire the  brake, horn, lights, tach, etc. I have the constant and crank wires installed.

Here is what is happening.

If I have the key out, and attempt to remote start, it will not.
If I have the key in the ON position, and attempt to remote start, it will not.
But if I place the key to the ON position, AFTER the ON remote starter relay and BEFORE the Crank remote starter relay fire, it will start!

Any clue?

You have a second IGN wire that needs to be powered up & also, you need to hook up the BRAKE wire otherwise you can not disengage the system when you remote start it and get into the vehicle to drive away.

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|white               |+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|BLACK/ white         |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|BLACK / YELLOW        |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|BLACK/ orange        |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|blue/red            |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|blue/black          |-  |passenger kick              |
|     POWER UNLOCK|blue/red *1         |-  |passenger kick              |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green               |   |dimmer switch or kick       |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|lt. green or white  |   |steering column             |
|       HEADLIGHTS|RED / white           |-  |steering column             |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|RED / white or black*2|-  |plug at top of fusebox      |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|RED / white *3        |-  |light or pin in trunk       |
|         HOOD PIN|red                 |-  |anti-theft ECU *4           |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock      |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|black               |   |check connector             |
|      SPEED SENSE|RED / yellow          |4  |center console 22 pin plug  |
|       BRAKE WIRE|GREEN / WHITE         |+  |plug in fusebox             |
|     HORN TRIGGER|GREEN/ red           |-  |steering column             |
|           WIPERS|                    |   |                            |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|yellow - green      |A  |in drivers door             |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - blu/wht   |A  |in drivers door or DKP      |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / grn - blu/blk   |A  |in drivers door or DKP      |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / blk - yellow    |A  |in drivers door or DKP      |

Notes:
*1 GREEN / WHITE on models with factory alarm.  *2 Use the Black in a 2 pin connector at the top of the fusebox on versions without a sunroof.  On cars with a sunroof use the RED / white in a 4 or 6 pin connector in the same location.  When adding dome light supervision use the door trigger wire and relay isolate to keep ground from entering the fusebox side of the wire or unlock will not function properly.  *3 On the wagon version the rear door is tied in with the door trigger wire.  *4 The anti-theft ECU is located high in the drivers side kick panel.

"If I have the key in the ON position, and attempt to remote start, it will not."

I've only installed one Bulldog unit, so I'm not familiar with every detail of their operation.  But some brands may not allow themselves to activate if the ignition is already on. 

Like Jeff said, make sure you got both ignition wires----the BLACK / YELLOW and BLACK/ orange.  Both of these must be powered up as ignitions---powering either one as an accessory probably isn't going to work.

The blue/red accessory wire just operates the radio and a few other power accessories----it is not necessary for remote start----you can power it up if you want to, but I'd rather leave the radio off during remote start----no need to wake up the neighbors in the morning with it.

And I'll also second what Jeff said about the brake wire; it'll be difficult to operate the car properly without it.  Plus, the Corolla's about the easiest car to work on; might as well just get it all done at once.

And I know how you mean about the cold---I'm in New England too, on Boston's North Shore.  I do installs on-site at car dealers, and work outside unless it's below about 35-40.  I find that if I keep the car's heater running full blast, I can generally keep the car, the product, and my tools and hands warm enough to work comfortably.  If you keep your electrical tape atop the defroster vents, the little trickle of airflow coming through there will keep the tape nice and pliable.  And since a lot of the circuits in the car are live with the engine running, don't strip a lot of the car's wires at once---do one at a time, and tape it up before moving on to the next, so all the wires don't short out to one another.

Thanks guys. I fugured that the key was closing a curcit that the R/S was not doing.

You have a second IGN wire that needs to be powered up sounds like the issue.