expedition power liftgate integration
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94444
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 10:49 PM
Topic: expedition power liftgate integration
Posted By: trpltongue
Subject: expedition power liftgate integration
Date Posted: June 01, 2007 at 2:57 PM
Hey all, I am looking to get a Viper 5900 installed on my 2007 expedition. This vehicle has a factory powered liftgate. I push the liftgate button on the factory remote (or inside the vehicle) and the liftgate powers open, same for closed. When asking the installer about integrating this, he said something about having to use a window module??? I explained to him that the trunk was already powered and shouldn't require a timed output, but he seemed to think it would still need the window module. It seems to me that the power liftgate would just need a pulse to activate it, but I don't have the wiring so I don't know. Can anyone help me out? Thanks, Russell
Replies:
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 01, 2007 at 4:52 PM
The astrochart shows a grey / YELLOW in the drivers kick in a HUGE greywhite connector. Looking at the plug it's the bottom right. It says negative, but it does not say pulse or latched. Test the wire while opperating the switch. hope this helps.
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Posted By: trpltongue
Date Posted: June 01, 2007 at 11:07 PM
thanks KarTuneMan, That does help. I won't be installing I was just curious because it didn't sound right that it would need a latched output, or that it would require a window module. The dealer is wanting to charge me an extra $100 because of the power liftgate which seems like a bit much, that's all. Thanks, Russell
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: June 02, 2007 at 11:36 AM
If the guy's thinking it needs a module, he's mistaken, and probably hasn't worked on your type of car before either. If he took a moment to look up the wiring sheet for that car, he'd have been better informed.
--The liftgate up/down is super-easy.
The switch in the overhead console makes a momentary ground every time you push it.
The trunk-release output from the Viper would be ideal for this. No additional module, relay, or part is required.
I find that the easiest place to catch the liftgate wire is directly at the overhead switch itself.
The installer will need several feet of wire to run from the Viper up to the car's headliner, and anywhere from 5-15 minutes' extra labor time.
--If you're interested in opening the rear hatch glass too, that's slightly more complex, but still not difficult.
High up above the passenger's foot area, is a module with a thick WHITE/ pink (or pink/white? I forget) wire. This wire is a high-current, positive trigger.
The auxilary outputs from the Viper are only low-current, negative trigger.
The installer will need an inexpensive relay to convert the Viper's output to the desired high-current positive, as well as a length of wire to make it over to the passenger side of the car.
Maybe 10-30 minutes' labor, depending on how fast the installer works, how easy it is for him to find the wire over on the passenger side, and what wire-connection method he uses.
The relay required costs as little as $1-2 wholesale, but you might see it jacked up as high as $15-17 retail.
In summary: No modules are needed. All that is needed is a little extra labor time, a bit of wire (some shops charge separately for the wire), and one relay for the hatch glass (some shops charge separately for relays).
If they were charging you $100 extra for BOTH the hatch and the glass, that's still quite high, but not unheard of----I'd think more like $50, wire & relay included.
P.S. The installer will need your factory remote to test the glass-release wire. Don't forget to leave it with him when dropping off the car.
Posted By: trpltongue
Date Posted: June 02, 2007 at 11:02 PM
Chris, That is one of the best replies I've read! Thanks. I thought it was a momentary trigger and you have confirmed my thinking :) I think I'm going to look around for other installers because it's obvious that this guy has never worked on a vehicle like mine before, and that makes me a bit nervous. He's an authorized Clifford and Viper dealer with 2 locations in town and that's why I went to him. His price was also $300 less than the other Viper dealer in town. He was charging the same for labor, but much less below retail for the alarm itself. On a side note, do you happen to know if it's possible to integrate the factory keypad on the door with the alarm system? Maybe hardwire an extra alarm fob to the kepad output? I ask because I really like the keypad and hate to loose that feature. Thanks, Russell
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 03, 2007 at 12:08 AM
Rear glass release. @ SJB connector E, BROWN / lt.blue (POS)+
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Posted By: enice
Date Posted: June 03, 2007 at 12:08 AM
As far as I know there is no alarm disarm wire on viper systems. Assuming that you unlock the door with the keypad then you would need it to pulse that wire after you open the door but like I mentioned earlier, their is no disarm wire on the viper. When I say disarm I mean afterfmarket disarm not factory disarm.
Posted By: trpltongue
Date Posted: June 04, 2007 at 8:20 AM
Thanks for the tips and info everyone. It seems that the Viper and Clifford alarms are not capable of integrating my factory doors unfortunately. So I need to look for an alarm that does have alarm disarm, and arm. I'm going to post a new thread asking that question. Thanks again all! Russell
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