need a wiring diagram for 07 ion

It's not in the12volt database. I'm trying to put in a remote start alarm (Code Alarm CA670). The car has power locks/windows, auto trans. 2007 Saturn Ion3 Sedan.

thanks ahead of time.

Thanks. I read in other places on other sites that a 456LW is needed for the locks to work right with the keyless. I've seen this module be called a 456L and 456LW and I dont know if there's a difference... regardless though, is a module needed for the locks? It looks like a negative trigger system.

I'm using a 555L module for the passlock bypass.

Thanks for the help on the locks. I got them done.

The last thing I'm working on is the remote start. I'm using a DEI 555L bypass. It's pretty self explanatory but yet, the car is being troublesome. I found the resistance wire and the ground reference wire under the steering column. The resistence wire is white and the ground reference is white with black. When I connected the 555L to the wires (solid black going to the ground-ref; BLACK/ yel going to the res.wire away from the ignition switch; yel going to the res.wire going to the ignition switch) and tried to let the module "learn" the resistence, the car wouldnt start. I disconnected what I had and reconnected it back to factory and the car started fine. Since I used info from DEI regarding which whire was which, I used a DMM to see for myself at this point. The resistance wire was reading ground instead of what was supposed to be the ground reference wire. So, I swapped the things around, using the WHITE/ black as the resistance (instead of the white) and the white as the ground reference (instead of the WHITE/ black). When I did that, the chime started going off as soon as the first connection to what was being considered the ground reference wire (the white wire) was made.

So, what am I doing wrong?

On this 555L btw, there is a blue wire called the "negative status" wire that was supposed to connect to the negative status output of the alarm. My alarm is a Code Alarm CA670... I was thinking that was the negative armed output (the orange wire)?

When I mentioned the blue wire at the end of my post, I meant the blue/black. What does it connect to?

Thanks for pointing me in that direction. Do you think that having the pink wire of the 555L connected to the ignition1 all the time is causing it not to start though? What I mean is that the car is not starting with the 555L installed--that is, with the exception of the blue/black connected to some other wire other than the orange wire of the 670. With it connected to the armed neg output (the orange wire) and all the wires connected as directed (except for that pink wire which I had connected to the ignition 1 with the main ignition1 wire of the 670), the car will not turn over.

Okay: everything is connected as it should be:

• the red wire of the 555L is going to 12v constant
• the status wire from the 555L is going to the blue/black on the 670
• the pink wire from the 555L is going to the pink/white (ignition2 output) on the 670
• the yellow wire on from the 555L is going to the key side of the white resistance wire
• the BLACK/ yel wire from the 555L is going to the BCM side of the white resistence wire 
• the black wire from the 555L is going to the WHITE/ bl ground reference wire

The car will not start with the 555L connected. If the yel and blk/yel wires of the 555L are removed and the car's wires are returned to factory, the car will start w/o any problems. 

What now? Think the 555L is faulty?

It gets odder:

I just went out to see if the remote start will function with the key in the ignition, w/o the 555L connected. I disconnected the 555L's yel and blk/yel wires from the white resistence wire and just left the white wire disconnected (so the plock resistence wire is not connected). I tried to start the car with the key and surprisingly, it started up! I wasn't expecting that. I completely disconnected the 555L (unplugged it's harness) and the car still started with the key, w/o the resistence wire connected. I tried the remote start w/ and w/o the key and it did not work.

I'm not familiar with the new way GM does the starting--the "watching for a drop in the accessory power" thing. Because there arent any starter wires, the 670's starter wires arent being used. Of course, neither are the Acc2 and Ignition2 (except with the 555L as instructed).

Pretty sure of it... under the steering column, about 2 inches from the cylinder: there is a green plug with five 18gauge wires in it: orange, blue, brown, white, and WHITE/ black. The orange is 12v, the blue is ignition, the brown is accessory, the white and WHITE/ black are the passlock wires.

I did notice that with the main resistence wire cut (that would be the solid white one), the security light came on and stayed on in the instrument cluster. When I attached the wires back together and restarted the vehicle, the light went off.

I thought about doing it the "old fashion way" by calculating the resistence. With the red probe of the DMM on the key side of the resistence wire and the black probe on the ground reference wire, the resistence was 1.24kOhm. When the probes were swapped, the resistence was 1.214kOhm. I supposed I could do it that way but I still have to find out why/how to get the remote start to actually start the vehicle. I suppose to make sure the alarm is doing what it's supposed to do is to test for 12v on the pink ignition wire when the remote start is activated, right?

Okay. I can go look for that now and see if it works better for the remote start than the blue.

Given the mess that I am going through with the 555L, do you think I should start soldering resistors together to get 1.24kOhms? Radio Shack opens in 45mins and I can run up there and start picking out some stuff. If I did this, would I shoot for the 1.24 reading or the 1.214 reading (as I posted above)?

I looked for a pink wire in the dkp and found only one there. However, it does not measure 12volts with the key on, only 6 to 7 volts. It will keep this voltage while starting but still, its not anything close to 12. Since there wasnt any replies stating otherwise and since I cant get anywhere with the 555L module, I made a relay pack out of two relays using the resistence value 1.24kOhms. I found the diagram while research in this website, under a post regarding the same type of setup in a 2005 Canyon. When installed, the car will start with the key. However, i am having a lot of trouble trying to get the remote start part of the alarm to work. I dont know if I have something connected incorrectly or if the alarm is at fault.

Right now, I am not using the ignition2, acc2, or either of the starter wires (keyside and motor side) of the alarm. Should I be?

its has no starter wire the vehicle will start when the remote starters accessory  wire shut down for crank (do not connect  your remote starters wire output to anything.

In an 07 Saturn Ion3, I'm installing a Code Alarm CA670. I have everything working on it so far, just finishing with the remote start. Now, the concern I face is the factory alarm system unlocks the doors when the Code remote start feature is turned off via the remote.

I've read through the entries that come up when searching but I havent found one that deals with connecting the alarm's negative pulse wire to the locking system. The Code has a blk/red wire on a small 4pin harness, that is supposed to provide a negative pulse after the remote start shutdown. The thing of it is, is that the installation manual doesnt indicate where to connect this wire to (or least I havent found it yet). Additionally, the manual suggests this wire can also be used to send a pulse to the door trigger so to turn off the accessories after the RS is deactivated.

So, how do go about wiring this and is this the best method for accomplishing these tasks? I initially thought that all I would need to do would be to connect the blk/red wire to the green negative lock wire on the alarm but that didnt do anything.

thanks ahead of time!

Just wanted everyone to know that I got this going with a PLJX module from bypasskits. I didnt program it right the first go around but I did it over today and it works well. I have an issue with controlling the locks after I disable the RS remotely but I put that in a new post.

Thanks to everyone who helped me on this.