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remote start issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94640
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 3:52 AM


Topic: remote start issue

Posted By: fst100
Subject: remote start issue
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 9:21 AM

My car’s a 98 pontiac grand prix GTP.  I have a Viper 160XV remote start and alarm.  Its been working great for over a year now.  I didn’t use solder, but mainly used wire crimps to tap the ignition/starter/(un)lock wires together.  I have the module just under the carpeted area near the hood latch/button.  Just yesterday after watchin Oceans 13 I went out to my car and pressed on my remote to activate the cars ignition.  It was raining and I accidentally left my windows open a bit.  Nothing started and when I pressed the unlock button still nothing.  I then noticed the LED light was on but very dim(suppose to be blinking to show its working. 

After turning the key and starting the car the LED was showing full bright.  I tried pressing both lock/unlock but the alarm/horn didn’t activate.  So I decided to unplug the main/primary wiring harness on the module just in case.  This morning I decided to see if I could troubleshoot the problem.  I double-checked to ensure no fuses were blown and they’re all OK.  I also made certain the ground wire off the primary harness was still being grounded and it is.  I then decided to replug the primary harness but when I did the module made the starter run, but the ignition was not being activated, so the starter was basically just running by itself.  When I noticed this for the 3-4 seconds I quickly disconnected the primary harness.  I thought it’d be the tach wire but its still tapped, with wire crimp, behind the dash overlay.  I then looked under the dash, and made certain all the wire crimps were tight and they appear to be.  I then unplugged the remote start ribbon harness off the module and replugged the primary, the starter didn’t turn on.  So I know it might have to do with either the remote start ribbon or the heavy gauge relay satellite that connects to it and also goes to the wiring harness on the car. 

My question is, why would the starter want to turn over when I would try to reconnect everything-remote start ribbon into module-but not have the ignition come on as well?  Im at a loss now, and I am in need of some serious help.  Thanks in advance. 

Btw the module didn’t seem to be wet from the rain, but when I was driving the car yesterday b4 unplugging the primary harness, I belive I heard a distinct ‘foil scrapping’ sound coming from the module, and I think a live wire was touching the chassis causing spark.  I don’t know for certain, just an assumption from the sound.  When I stopped the car, and checked I heard nor saw anything unusual.  Sorry for the long story. 




Replies:

Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 10:53 AM
Sounds like a trip to someone who can properly install a remote start/alarm maybe a wise investment.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 10:58 AM
Well.....I can make the long story very quick and short. Take that unit out before you burn your car to the wheels. Compare the price of a new remote start, to the cost of replacing your car. I wouldn't even spend the time trouble shooting this thing. Thats just the way I am. Catastophic failure.posted_image

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Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 10:59 AM
i appreciate the advice, but i am very curious on if i can do/fix this myself.  im thinking since the fuses are not blown, it may be the heavy gauges wires loosing contact at the wure crimp in the ignition, 2nd ignition, starter, or the wait to start wire.  im thinking of disconnecting and rewiring the heay gauges with a more solid tap/connect.  but does anyone know what might be the culprit please?  much appreciated.




Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 11:01 AM
....sighposted_image




Posted By: soultinter
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 1:26 PM
u should listen to extremej




Posted By: customak47
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 5:13 PM

You sound like you're determined, so I'll give it a shot. dei units are known to crank the starter when you plug in main harness with all the fuses in. Same with if you disconnect the positive post of the battery and reconnect, the unit will attempt to start and keep cranking, so this was probably a fluke. As far as your dim LED light, this right here signifies something is definitely wrong. Ground is the first thing tech support will tell you to check. I recommend using the factory ground wire and tapping into it. If this doesn't fix your problem, start systematically eliminating your "crimp connectors" I assume you mean t taps "I didn’t use solder, but mainly used wire crimps to tap the ignition/starter/(un)lock wires together" and put the wires copper to copper and use 3m 33+ tape to wrap them tightly. This car is one of the easiest remote start installs out there and 80% of the wires are in the ignition harness, just clean the stuff up and you will find that one of your crimp connections that appear to be good aren't. Hope it doesn't burn down.....



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My rifle is my friend...




Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 09, 2007 at 11:47 PM
thank you customak47 for your help. thats very informative about the DEIs. i know that whenever the batteries disconnected then reconnected the remote module would atempt to crank the motor over and the motor starts up, if the hood pin switch is not grounded. i'll double check the main ground wire as well as invest in what you recommend, "3M 33+ tape". can i get that at Lowes/Home Depot?




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: June 10, 2007 at 12:46 PM
I did see just one DEI remote starter that did pretty much what you describe..........when powered up, it would crank the starter (but not power the ignition).

Also, the first step would be to disconnect the main brain, and test EVERY wire at ALL the connectors. Since you installed this yourself, I assume you have a test light or meter, and the ability to use it.

Test all of the wires, DIRECTLY at the Viper's plug----ground, constant, and all the rest.

If one of those wires doesn't test out right, there most be a poor connection or a broken wire; find and repair it.

If all the wires do test out right, the Viper brain is probably the problem.

If you have a warranty, get it replaced. If you don't have a warranty, unscrew the case of the brain, see if it got damp/wet/rusty inside. If it's damp, try leaving it somewhere hot and sunny for a day or two, like on the dashboard of a parked car with the windows up.

Take note that one of the screws for the brain box is usually covered by a sticker, which is why I suggest taking it apart ONLY if you can't get it replaced under warranty-----if they see the case has been opened, they may not want to replace it.




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 13, 2007 at 2:52 PM
Time to take the brain out and give it a wiff! Smell that ish! you might have toasted it. you metioned your LED fading and after starting the vehicle with the key it became bright again. Check voltage on your battery as well. What did you use for pk3 bypass?

SUM up what exactly is wrong with your ride. From what i read and remembered to me it sounds like you have a fried brain.

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"dont ground out!"




Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 13, 2007 at 3:00 PM
yea im thinking i fried the brain. how, i dont know. again when i looked at it, there were no signs of it being wet. my car's a 98, the PK3 Bypass was not installed into the grand prix's until 99+ IIRC. i am trying/planning on getting another brain via ebay but the viper 160XV is out of date and harder to find anymore at a decent price. i bought the viper 160xv via ebay, so the items prolly not warrantied. i'll plan on testing the wires out at the ground, constant, and other wires running out of the brain, i cant plug ALL the wires in at the same time-else the brain would crank the starter all day long til either starter dies/battery dies/i unplug it.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: June 13, 2007 at 4:22 PM

Do you hear the ignition "click" during remote start?  You should hear several clicks during a r/s attempt, one of which is the internal ignition relay, the other of which is the starter relay.



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 13, 2007 at 4:31 PM
no i dont hear the ignition clicking nor the fuel pump priming itself like b4. when it was actually working, whenever i pushed the key pad to have the r/s come one, i'd hear the fuel pump prime, then the starter cranks and instantly the car ignites and runs. here's a link to a vid i made for my exhaust sound.
https://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1238815356




Posted By: fst100
Date Posted: June 24, 2007 at 11:35 PM
i opened the brain and saw that on the top porttion(opposite the adapter harnesses plug into) that they were fried. dunno how that happened?




Posted By: customak47
Date Posted: June 25, 2007 at 3:27 PM
at least it was only the brain and not the whole car. yeah you can get the 33+ at lowes. good luck

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My rifle is my friend...





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