01 honda prelude immobilizer light
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94945
Printed Date: May 07, 2024 at 6:44 PM
Topic: 01 honda prelude immobilizer light
Posted By: phonymike
Subject: 01 honda prelude immobilizer light
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 3:27 AM
I signed up to post my immobilizer light problem in another topic but it was locked (he had a stick, I got automatic,) I searched but found nothing on this forum. I just put in a Viper 5900 with remote start, along with the DEI 555D immobilizer bypass for my prelude. The install went without any problems, and the car remote started with the key in the ignition. I then hooked up the bypass, programmed the key, and it starts up fine with no key in the ignition. However, when I remote start, the factory immobilizer light flashes untill I turn the car off. If I start the car wiith my key, no immobilizer light. If the car is running, then I remote start the car with the key in the ignition (valet takeover) the car continues to run with no problems, no immobilizer light, with no key in the ignition. It's only when remote started does the light blink. Again, everything works perfectly except the immobilizer light blinks meaning there's an improper key in the ignition (but it starts and runs fine all day long.) My guess is the status output from the 5900 doesn't stay on long enough. If I put the key in the ignition (just in not on or nothing) remote start it, and remove the key like 2 seconds later, the light doesn't blink. It seems the 555D bypass just sends the key signal until the engine starts (like one second) while the factory immobilizer wants a signal for at least two seconds. Everything is hooked up according to the instructions, All connections on the bypass are soldered, except for power, ground, and status.
Replies:
Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 3:50 AM
Your status output (-) starts to output a ground (-) signal right after you press the r/s button and continues until you do a manual key take over. The car is starting appropriately, so the immobilizer receiver is getting the correct signal from the DEI 555D module. You need to run that status (-) wire to the blue/white keysense wire in the steering column harness. This will trick the 'lude into thinking the key is in the ignition. ------------- The search function is your friend.
Posted By: phonymike
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 4:07 AM
Awesome, and such a quick reply. Now the bypass module is already tapped into the key sense, as well is the status to the 5900, but they are separate wires on the bypass module. Maybe the key sense isn't tapped in as well as I thought. I'll mess around with it tomorrow. Thanks.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 8:24 AM
Make sure to diode isolate the status wire (keysence, and bypass module)
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Posted By: enice
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 10:40 AM
I had the same exact problem wih a Honda Civic but it was with a directed 556HW. I called tech support and I was told that it was because I had a bad ground. Regrounded the black wire but gave me the same result also changed the module with 2 other ones and no cigar. I did the same exact car before and didn't give me that problem I didn't try what was posted as a solution on this forum but what I did was change from 556HW to HONDA-SL2. I used the same ground, status output, and power. I doubt the status output was a problem although the keysense makes sense. After installing the HONDA-SL2 the ligh was gone. The installation of the HONDA-SL2 made me switch to them and now I have no confidence in 556HW. Plus, the HONDA-SL3 has more vehicle compatability and 3 wires to bypass on the honda immobilizer harness. Good Luck though and let me know how it went.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 10:46 AM
I have never used a 555D, but I have read it is a very unreliable piece. I am not surprised you are having problems with it.
Hooking up the status out (or ground when running wire) of the Viper to the keysense wire and the bypass module will create problem if not done correctly. First, you need to split the status output with 2 diodes.
The 555D has an INPUT wire that goes to the keysense wire of the car. If you connect the status output of the Viper to the keysense wire, the 555D will see the ground on the keysense wire and will go into "learn" mode. Whenever you remote start the bypass module will be looking for a key in the ignition so it can learn the signal from it. That is not what you want.
Correct way to do it is to cut the keysense wire in the car. Add a diode inline with the stripe on the diode on the key cylinder side. Connect the keysense wire of the 555D on the key cylinder side of the diode. Connect the status output wire of the Viper on the non-striped side of the diode. With this method the 555D only thinks there is a key in the ignition when there really is a key in the ignition.
Another note....very rarely does the keysense wire on a Honda need to see ground when remote started. I only remember the Honda Pilot needing it on certain years to prevent domelight issues. I have a feeling your problem lies with the crappy design of the 555D. Switching over to a 1100F with 1100PR software may be what you need to do to get rid of the flashing immobilizer light.
Posted By: phonymike
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 2:30 PM
Nope, not working. I cut the key sense wire so the 555D wouldn't relearn a key, then inserted a spare key with no chip in it into the ignition to get that nice annoying ringing. It remote started just fine (as it always has) but the light keeps blinking. The 555D isn't sending the signal long enough to make the immobilizer light happy. I opened up the module but I don't see any easy way to adjust it or anything. Because again, if I leave the original key in the cylinder, and yank it out about two seconds after she cranks, then the light doesn't come up. Oh well thanks for the ideas, I didn't realize there were other modules I could use to bypass my car, I saw one with my model and year and thought "this has got to be the best." I'd hate to rewire everything, because the connections are inside the factory tubing, and completely unnoticable. If I could just plug one of those other modules right in I'd be real happy (I could depin and repin the connector!) Thanks everybody, now I just have to wire up that trunk popper.
Posted By: phonymike
Date Posted: June 21, 2007 at 1:06 AM
Found the solution: remove immobilizer indicator lamp. Yeah I hate to do it, but really, what's it gonna do? If my car ever breaks down I'll know to check the immobilizer, or insert the wire to have the CEL blink how ever many times to confirm the trouble code. It beats driving around with the green light blinking, seriously, it's like having my right blinker on the entire time.
Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: June 21, 2007 at 2:58 PM
LOL! well done That reminds me of my parents trying to figure out how to stop the blinking on the VCR (the blinking "12:00AM") .. they couldn't program a VCR clock time if they tried... so they just took some black electric tape and put it over it.. problem solved. ------------- The search function is your friend.
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