how do you get the daytime running lights to shut off when the remote start shuts down? if you manually shut off the remote starter, the lights stay on, and then if you lock and unlock the doors, or vice versa (i dont remember which order) they will shut off. AND does anyone know where to grab the wires to make the rear sliding doors to work??? there are no switches in the dash for the rear sliders. And whats with the positive and negative starter wire????? weird shtuff.....
Use just the parking lights. Run a negative output through a 2K resistor to the White w/Brown trace at the switch. The right rear slider is a Violet w / YELLOW trace at the BCM, negative output through a 2.7K resistor. Left slider is Violet w/Blue trace at BCM, a negative out through a 1.5K resistor. You need to run a negative start output during crank only through a 180 Ohm resistor to the Violet w/Brown trace at the ignition with the normal positive crank output (Yellow) too, or it will stall after start or keep running and cause a system fault.(check engine light)
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i did the parking lites exactly like you said, but like i said.... after the remote starter shuts off, the lights stay on. thanks for the info on the sliders ! do you remember which plug the wires for the sliders are in? i believe there were 5 plugs on the bcm.
https://www.bypasskit.com/CHDL-1B-PK.asp?cid=22
this will do what you want. does the van have power sliders??? if no switches up front than it does not have power sliders.
Chrysler Mini-Vans 2001 & up – Body Control Module
The Body Control Module on the new
Chrysler Mini-Vans is located under the
driver’s side of the dash, directly mounted to
the firewall. You can find just about anything
you need here for your basic installations.
Most of the wires that control such things as
security, doorlocks and the sliding doors,
use resistors in-line with ground (-). The pin
numbers given below, correspond to the
pins, as they appear in the diagram and the
line drawing on the right.
C2 Connector:
Pin-6 VIOLET/TAN – Power Liftgate control (2.7K resistor to ground for
open/close)
Pin-9 WHITE/ LT.GREEN – Reverse lights (+)
Pin-10 TAN/WHITE – Driver’s lock motor (+) for keyless upgrade only
Pin-11 TAN/LT.GREEN – Driver’s Unlock motor (+) for keyless upgrade only
Pin-26 TAN/BROWN – Passenger’s unlock motor (+) for keyless upgrade only
C3 Connector:
Pin-1 VIOLET/DK.BLUE – Sliding doors open/close (right door use 1.5K res. to ground, left door use 2.7K res. to ground)
Pin-5 VIOLET / YELLOW – Right sliding door sense (-)
Pin-6 VIOLET – Left front door sense (-)
Pin-7 VIOLET/WHITE – Right front door sense (-)
Pin-8 VIOLET/GRAY – Left sliding door sense (-)
Pin-14 VIOLET/LT.BLUE – Doorlock & Security control (2K res. to ground for lock/arm and 5.2K res. to ground for
unlock/disarm)***
Pin-21 VIOLET/DK.GREEN – Doorlock control (5.2K res. to ground for lock and 2K res. to ground for unlock)***
Pin-25 YELLOW/VIOLET – Courtesy lights (+)
Pin-29 VIOLET/ORANGE – Liftgate door sense (-)
Pin-30 VIOLET/LT.BLUE – Hood switch sense (-)
C5 Connector:
Pin-18 WHITE/ BROWN - Light switch control (5.6K res. to ground for Parklights, 1.3K res. to ground for Headlights)
Pin-30 ORANGE / BROWN – Dimmer (+)
In the driver's kick panel are two thick wire bundles; open up the one more toward the rear. There are two WHITE/ brown wires, and several WHITE/ tans. One of the WHITE/ tans is brake, and one of the WHITE/ browns is positive parking lights. We've done hundreds of new-style Chrysler vans with positive parking lights, contrary to DEI's warnings, and have had no trouble.
I agree with Chris. I have done them both ways with no problems. The WHITE/ brown in the kick panel is definately the easiest. The only downfall is that the dash lights don't come on but usually not a big deal.
well that wouldnt be the first time that DEI is wrong with there tech info. you would think that they would have there shi* together by now..... thanks for all the posts guys!!!